Pulling 7.3 in 1990 F350

[jhenegh]

Quick question;

Is it considerably easier to pull a 7.3 from a 1990 F350 2WD if the core support has been removed? I've got the radiator out and I'm not convinced there's ample room there to slip this chunk out. I was planning on leaving the E4OD in the truck. This is my first time pulling one of these (usually work on tractors), working alone...

Thanks

 

[junk]

I pull them with the clip and core support on. I don't find it hard at all. I would recommend pulling the starter and oil filter to add room.

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[smokin150]

Yes, pulling rad core support makes the one man task of pulling the beast of an engine rather easy.

 

[freebird01]

personally i think its easier to just pull the whole front clip... as long as the main bolts to the frame arent frozen you can yank the hood and front clip in about an hour. on a brick nose the harness has one big plug at the firewall and comes off with the front clip

 

[Iowa 73]

I have pulled four or five of these and never pulled the core support. You will have to take the torque converter off. It is a tight fit, but no problem.

 

[OLDBULL8]

If your smart and working alone, pull the core support, a little more work but a lot easier to pull the engine and a hell'va lot easier to put it back in. Lost all my pics of me at 81 yrs old on WebShots pulling the 90 and 92 engines.

 

[icanfixall]

Well these posts are correct about pulling an engine. I saw that my engine was pulled withthe hood in the standard open position. I had a shop resleeve a cylinder many years ago that cavitated. So when it was my turn I did the same but.. The converter, starter and oil filter were off the engine. I had one chance to rig the engine so I chained it close to the intake manifold. The pick chains were almost flat asross the top of the engine too. Thats a tuuf strain on the chains. The next engine removel I proped open the hood back to the windshield with a 2x4 in the battery box after I released the hood springs for more movement. Worked even better but its a tall lift going up over the core support. When your removing the fan place a piece of cardboard in front of the radiater. That fan and clutch are heavy and can damage the radiater. Or remove the radiater first, then the fan and shroud. But the fan should be removed for more working room if the core sopprt stays in the truck. Make sure you also remove the ground wire on the driver side head to the firewall. Thats an often missed wire.

 

[riotwarrior]

Core support removal is actually more work that pulling the clip off IMHO, having done both I'll only pull the clip, about 12 bolts some hoses and electrical and it ALL comes out together, including leaving rad IN place...talk about simple! just use a couple of straps to hold the hood up out of the way tied back to the box use at least two in case one fails...SIMPLE

You have WAY more access around engine and FWIW you have a much easier time if you want to paint or do anything like that as well.

JM2CW

Al

 

[jhenegh]

Went with removing the core support method. I can't figure put how I'd pull the clip in one piece alone! Took me some time (especially since it's my first time working on one of these trucks) but it's out.

Thanks!

 

[freebird01]

Two bolts on top of each fender...one on bottom by firewall...one inside each door jamb...two main bolts at the frame mounts....big wiring plug..aybe a misc hose....rad hoses....a/c hoses if you got them... thats about it

 

[cpdenton]

Don't forget a buddy to grab the other side! It would certainly be hard to do by yourself.

 

[icanfixall]

Nice job. Looking at your fan clutch seems like the seal has failed. Kinda looks fuffy around the fins. Might want to look closely at that. If its wet and leaking theres no good reason to put it back on. Actually now is a gear time to replace it. No easier time either. Why was the engine removed.

 

[freebird01]

Don't forget a buddy to grab the other side! It would certainly be hard to do by yourself.

engine hoist and ratchet straps...

 

[jhenegh]

Nice job. Looking at your fan clutch seems like the seal has failed. Kinda looks fuffy around the fins. Might want to look closely at that. If its wet and leaking theres no good reason to put it back on. Actually now is a gear time to replace it. No easier time either. Why was the engine removed.

I'm gonna have to ask you to explain and expand what you mean by a fluffy fan clutch?

Suspected cavitation, probably isn't going back in.

 

[riotwarrior]

Two bolts on top of each fender...one on bottom by firewall...one inside each door jamb...two main bolts at the frame mounts....big wiring plug..aybe a misc hose....rad hoses....a/c hoses if you got them... thats about it

That's what makes it so good, leave rad attached less work than a rad support IMHO but takes two people to lift it out.

Bottom line he got it out alone!

I won't remove an engine without pulling the clip again...it's just way to easy!