Project 1997 Parts truck

bbjordan

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New Parking Brake cables

Put some new parking brake cables in. The old ones were seized. Also took the time to wire wheel the drums and spray them with Aluminum paint. Painted the hubs too. Looks really nice compared to all the other rusty bits. ;)

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bbjordan

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Oil Filler necks

While Pick-n-Pulling the other day, I ran across these:

The taller one is from a 6.0 and the other one is from the SuperDuty 7.3.

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Here is the 6.0 filler neck on Rusty the Red. I have since moved it to the project truck. It sits a little higher, so it clears the CAC pipes nicely.

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This is a nice upgrade if you have trouble hitting the hole when adding oil. In the pic above you can see the oil mess. grrr. :mad:
 

bbjordan

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New face

Some cosmetic work was done on the face of the truck. The bug deflector was removed, and the grill and headlight bezels were changed out to the ones I had painted satin black.

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I also attempted to fix the leaking fuel tank by welding it. When I tested it all 4 places still leaked.
I tried welding it again. All 4 places still leaked. :p
So I cleaned it out again, and put some JB Weld on.

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Closer view. It doesn't show in the picture well.

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It shows better with paint on it.

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Also cleaned up and got the first coat of paint on the fuel tank guard, and the transfer case guard.

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79jasper

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I was meaning if you didn't mind losing a little bit, you could get the bigger SD poly tank.

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bbjordan

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Fuel tanks mounted & plumbed.

I hadn't reinstalled the front tank up to this point because I picked up a 300 litre in-bed fuel tank a couple of weeks ago, and was struggling with how to plumb it into the front tank. At first, I thought I would tee into the return line, but it is only a 5/16" line and apparently a 5/16" barbed tee is made of unobtainium around these parts.

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After moving some stuff around in the garage, I came across a rubber plug that PnP uses to plug the oil pans once they have punched a hole in them to drain them. They do it on the oil pan, transmission pan, and differentials. How hard could it be to just remove the oil pan bolt? :dunno Anyway, it's to my benefit this time, because the hole in the plug is the perfect fit for the 3/8" fuel hard line. :) So, I drilled an 11/16" hole (same size as the OD of the rubber plug) in the tank by the filler neck.

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Put rag in the tank to catch the metal shavings.

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Cut the end off the plug, so it's no longer a plug, but a grommet, and put it in the hole.

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Insert truncated fuel line. It's nice and snug. I had to grease it up a little to get it in. A nice snug fit. It keeps the grommet nice and snug too. At this point I'm thinking: I am so smart. SMRT. :)

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Attach fuel line.

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After the fuel tank was installed, the other end of the hose is connected to the 3/8" barbed fitting coming through the bed of the truck.

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If you look closely, you can see the hole I had to drill in the brace for the pick-up bed (the large round one closest to the frame). It was one of 5 that I had to drill to put nuts on the bolts that hold the tank down. When I drilled the holes, they came out right in the middle of the brace. :rolleyes: It could have been worse. It could have been right where the brace vertical piece is. The brace is deeper than my drill bit, so I had to buy a long bit the same diameter (1/4') as the pilot bit on my hole saw. I used the smallest hole saw in my set to make the hole in just the right spot. With a little LED flashlight stuck in the end of the brace for light, I was able to see what i was doing when putting on the lock washer and nut. Used a long 3/8 drive extension with a 10mm socket. Two nuts in the socket so the outer nut sticks out a bit. A little grease on the outer nut to hold the lock washer, and Bob's your uncle! Up top, I used a 10 mm wrench to hold the bolt from turning. Atop that was a 4 lb hammer balanced on the wrench to prevent the bolt from moving up when I was attempting to thread the nut on. I actually had to put a little flanged nut between the bolt and the hammer to take up the slack. :rolleyes: The things you gotta do when you're only a one man crew.

Actually, it wasn't too bad even for a one man job. LOL
 
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bbjordan

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Fuel tank fun

Well, the JB weld fix on the fuel tank (Post# 124) was a fail. :(

So I decided to used the tank from the 1992 that had the bio-gunk in it. (See http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?48908-Adventures-with-BioDiesel&p=928489#post928489)

I scraped as much of the goop out as I could (about 1/2 quart!), but there was still too much goop in it to be be useable IMO. I wound up using some Butyl Acetate I had sitting around to dissolve the goop. I threw in a few handfuls of pea gravel to give it some abrasive action. It worked great!

The tank is now mounted and full again. :)

While on the subject of fuel tanks, the antique developed a fuel leak because the sump rusted out, due to gravel between the tank guard and tank retaining water. Now I have two rusty fuel tanks...actually three. Doh!

So, I got creative and cut out the ends of the worst tank, and welded them together to make a new sump.

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Then the old rusty sump was cut out.

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New sump welded on.

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It leaked when tested, but I can fix it by rewelding. I had to fix the sump when I first welded it together too. Hey, I'm just a hobby welder. LOL
Actually, I'm kinda proud I didn't blow myself up. cookoo :rotflmao
I did take precautions. The tank was thoroughly cleaned, and I had fresh air blowing into it. I may be crazy, but I'm not stupid. :sly
 

bbjordan

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Yesterday, the transmission fluid got changed out. The stuff that came out was pretty nasty looking compared to the nice bright red Mobil 1 ATF that went in. I was hoping that it would help the shifting going into 2nd, but it is still gronky. :p

Also installed was a PCM with a TS Performance 6 position chip from a 1995 7.3 PSD.
Holy **** with all the mods that have been done, this 7000 lb truck really moves.
So far I've only tried up to the +100 HP mark (setting 5), but it really comes alive after 2500 RPM. All I can say is WOW.
 
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