Pre engine swap overture

[laserjock]

I ended up using a cumapart drain tube for a 6.7. I made an adapter to fit the standard Cdr grommet.

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Note: there is nothing standard in my application.

 

[OldIron82]

Most of the turbos drain down the cdr hole.

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I tried to do AN drain but there was not enough room.

What is "AN"?

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[OldIron82]

Poke holes here.

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It keeps the oil from stacking up. Had a guy here recently that the turbo oil was backing up and filling the valley pan.

Since I was changing the valley pan I knocked a few in the bottom too.

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Use an awl or a sharp punch so it doesn’t make metal shavings.

Wait I believe those are the spot welds around the CDR hole. I see the same indents on mine. Never mine I'm ok now

 

[laserjock]

What is "AN"?

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Stands for Army Navy. They are the standard hose connection most race cars use for things.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_threadhttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread

JIC is the industrial version. For practical purposes they are interchangeable.

 

[DaveBen]

According to Wikipedia, the page does not exist...

 

[laserjock]

Huh. Not sure what the issue there is. Google AN thread. It will show up.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The only question is whether you need to punch holes in the baffle underneath, or whether it will drain as-is.

I don't think that it's an absolute necessity, but similar to the 7.3 cooling mod, it can help to prevent a problem in the future. I will be doing that to mine just as a safeguard.

 

[Chemgrad]

I would definitely wait until you don't need the truck. You just never know when you're going to get snow or if something that you will need won't be available.
https://www.oilburners.net/members/03wr250f.24034/
https://www.oilburners.net/members/03wr250f.24034/
03wr250f your truck sounds perfect. Did you do anything other than what you have listed to the engine? Cam? Thanks

 

[03wr250f]

@Chemgrad no I have not done anything like a cam yet. I have studs, gaskets, billet return rails from R&D, a stage 1 cam and stage 1 drop in coming as well, but havent gotten there yet.

I did the 226 with just a ats 093 ww2 3" dp 4" exhaust and a intercooler.
i have since disabled the wastegate and make 15 psi before i back out, and added a stage 3 fuel system and cold air intake and fixed the exhaust leak i was having that cost me 2.5 mpg. I really dont have anything done to it other than what is listed, save for general maintenance, and synthetic fluids throughout. I have to say it is a really good combination of parts. The truck runs super well, the few times i have towed it has done exceptional, gets great milage while looking good, and it is pretty dang quick. I made a trip over to see the owner of r&d this summer and curising up a 10 mile grade on the interstate with about 1500 lbs in the bed on a 90* day egts cruised about 1000-1100* boost 13 psi and coolant 210 with the ac on cruising 85 up it. after 5 miles i got bored and backed down to the 65 mph limit. got 17mpg too. Pulling a trailer up a hill I have to back off because i will easily push past 15 psi of boost.

Oh and I have yet to turn my fuel up as well.
heck i ran n/a with a raybell intake and the same 4'' exhaust from the wye back with the factory turbo cal ip and stage 1 injectors, and didnt mess with any of that when i turbod.

 

[Chemgrad]

03wr250f Thanks for the info and reply. I have a 94 F-250 factory turbo and I was able to pick up an 88 or 89 (hard to read the tag) 7.3 N/A from a IH 2 ton truck. I'm thinking about trying to shoehorn the later into an F-150 4x4 (something 70's early 80's) and the former I'm still working on. Had a twins since I started massaging the F-250 and my toy budget turned south however there's always time as long as I'm breathing