Pre engine swap overture

[OldIron82]

Hello everyone. After two years the day is approaching! Just wondering what do's and don'ts there are about swapping engines from NA to turbocharged. I read I need to move the vacuum tree on the firewall elsewhere due to the turbo being in that area of real estate. (89 f350 7.3 zf5 currently naturally aspirated).

Does the firewall insulation have to leave completely?
Do I actually have to get a BFH and massage the firewall?
Anything important to know about splitting the engine from the zf5?
Is this a doable job in a weekend? The truck is my snow removal rig so there is NO time for catastrophic abortions. If you think I should wait until spring I will do so.

Thanks!

 

[frankenwrench]

Yes u need to massage firewall. I've heard of pole doing body lift to avoid up/downpipe contact with firewall, but my experience was rolling the pinch weld over. I was not able to install turbo without removing heat shield from firewall. Ive heard claims of keeping it there with body lift but not sure myself.

 

[DrCharles]

Since you need the truck for work (and it's usable as-is), I would definitely recommend that you wait for spring! Murphy's Law applies here.

And our trucks are also subject to the 90/90 rule:
The first 90% of the project takes 90% of the allotted time.
The last 10% takes the other 90% of the time.

 

[OldIron82]

Since you need the truck for work (and it's usable as-is), I would definitely recommend that you wait for spring! Murphy's Law applies here.

And our trucks are also subject to the 90/90 rule:
The first 90% of the project takes 90% of the allotted time.
The last 10% takes the other 90% of the time.

! Never heard of the 90/90 rule, but I know exactly what you mean. Kinda feared that. About the ZF-5 removal, just unbolt and pull apart? I've never played with a transmission that had a bell housing cast right into the gear box. Thanks

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes. That's all there is to it. 6 bolts in the bellhousing, remove the inspection cover, and remove or tie back the slave cylinder to keep it form expanding all the way while installed.

 

[OldIron82]

Yes. That's all there is to it. 6 bolts in the bellhousing, remove the inspection cover, and remove or tie back the slave cylinder to keep it form expanding all the way while installed.

I have an external slave cylinder. Are you referring to a internal one?

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[Macrobb]

No, he's talking about the external one. I don't do anything special when it comes off, but getting it back into place can be a pain - you have to depress the rod andnthenget it under the lever and into place.

Also, why are you swapping motors? If the current motor is OK, just install the turbo kit in-frame. Any 7.3 idi is good enough for a stock or kit turbo, whether it was a N/A block or not.
Remember, the IDIT doesn't have any stronger head bolts, and that's the weak point(at around 20 psi).

 

[03wr250f]

If you put the turbo kit on a n/a motor make sure you use a screwdriver and punch holes in the valley pan where the cdr was off the back of the intake. It will save you a lot of headache
Also If your up pipe and wye are "frozen" together dont try to remove them. It is dang near impossible to get them to seal after doing so.

 

[Macrobb]

If you put the turbo kit on a n/a motor make sure you use a screwdriver and punch holes in the valley pan where the cdr was off the back of the intake. It will save you a lot of headache
Also If your up pipe and wye are "frozen" together dont try to remove them. It is dang near impossible to get them to seal after doing so.

I got my first turbo block recently, and I'm pretty sure the valley pan didn't have any holes below the turbo drain.

I've also never done it on my trucks, and had no problems as long as I have a good seal around the bottom of the turbo drain/valley pan.

In this case, this would mean a new valley pan grommet and some silicone to seal it all. Conestoga diesel sells complete seal kits for factory turbos for about $32, with all the seals you'd need.

 

[laserjock]

Poke holes here.

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It keeps the oil from stacking up. Had a guy here recently that the turbo oil was backing up and filling the valley pan.

Since I was changing the valley pan I knocked a few in the bottom too.

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Use an awl or a sharp punch so it doesn’t make metal shavings.

 

[Macrobb]

How come there was no need to do this on stock factory turbo trucks? I've never seen reference to a turbo-truck-specific valley pan.

 

[OldIron82]

Poke holes here.

You must be registered for see images attach

It keeps the oil from stacking up. Had a guy here recently that the turbo oil was backing up and filling the valley pan.

Since I was changing the valley pan I knocked a few in the bottom too.

You must be registered for see images attach

Use an awl or a sharp punch so it doesn’t make metal shavings.

Woah. I never heard of any of that. Correct me if im wrong but are those holes AROUND the CDR hole? If so wouldn't that allow water and other foreign matter inside the engine? I understand the holes in the bottom, but around it? Wouldn't the oil drain out the back of the valley pan through the 3/8" drive plug?

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[laserjock]

No. It’s down inside the cdr hole. That is just a baffle. The oil drain grommet seals up the pan to the outside world.

 

[laserjock]

Most of the turbos drain down the cdr hole.

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I tried to do AN drain but there was not enough room.

 

[Macrobb]

Most of the turbos drain down the cdr hole

They all do, that I know of.
The only question is whether you need to punch holes in the baffle underneath, or whether it will drain as-is.