Roger that, thanks @chillman88 just pulled everything apart and ordered new ones. Tensioner was stuck solid too. New front cable and spring coming as well.
Paternity Leave Projects
- Thread starter Scotty4
- Start date
Were you able to find a new tensioner or are you going to have to free up the old one?
Soaking in "evaporust" seems to work well on those as long as you're patient and clean it well first.
Soaking in "evaporust" seems to work well on those as long as you're patient and clean it well first.
Im using the old tensioner as that was most expensive. I’ve got some muriatic acid I can soak it in if a Pb blaster bath doesn’t work first. Then I’ll wire wheel it and make it like new
Anyone have a good way to get the parking brake cable out of the cab? I removed the pedal/bracket for paint, but would hate to damage the black bushing guide thing in the floor.
Well a few choice words and a smashed finger later and she’s out.
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Yeah I never touched my front cable lol.
If in the future you need to, have a second set of hands to wiggle it inside the cab, otherwise the rubber hangs up.
@chris142 got this from the Novak site (borg warner):
"When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment."
Just wanted to play both sides of the coin but looks like both suggestions would be correct. I sadly won't be enjoying much warm weather.
"When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment."
Just wanted to play both sides of the coin but looks like both suggestions would be correct. I sadly won't be enjoying much warm weather.
From my limited learning, looks to me as they mean if the temp is hot, don’t use 50w.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That would be my guess too.
Today being the last day of Paternity Leave I received my new cables for the parking brake and installed everything.
Shoes were adjusted to where the drums would slide on and off snug but without a fight. Parking brake stops the wheels dead in 3 clicks (about halfway) I’ll test on my hill tomorrow evening to verify it holds.
Anything I am missing? Install look okay? Previous spring was in a different spot than the manual shows so I am not sure which way is correct.
Shoes were adjusted to where the drums would slide on and off snug but without a fight. Parking brake stops the wheels dead in 3 clicks (about halfway) I’ll test on my hill tomorrow evening to verify it holds.
Anything I am missing? Install look okay? Previous spring was in a different spot than the manual shows so I am not sure which way is correct.
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Spring placement "looks" wrong compared to mine, but I don't know what is right. Mine is kinda around the bottom of the bolt. I can snap a picture if you want but if it works who cares lol.
Glad you got it working again!
Glad you got it working again!
I would appreciate the picture! The Haynes manual has a picture of the spring on the grey piece which is why I left it grey in the event I had it wrong and couldn’t explain the piece.
Sorry for the delay.
My F250 which I have not touched but I don't know if it's stock
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My F350 which I tried to put back the way it was when I replaced the cables (with crappy aftermarket cables)
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