oil squirters, removal, cleaning, reinstall

[Knuckledragger]

Just be glad you didn't have to pull and reinstall early (6.9 before 87) oil jets. No bolt, just pressed into the block. Getting them back in the right position wasn't bad if you had a location template, which was obsolete since about 2009.

 

[jaluhn83]

That part isn't bad, it's the price tag on the stupid buggers that got me on the first and only engine I did with them..... figured they'd be like $5 or something - nearly had a heart attack when i found out they were somewhere north of $50/ea. Think I wound up getting them form IH for a bit cheaper, but still I think those little things cost me just about as much as all the other parts combined.

 

[OLDBULL8]

anything we can do to them to enhance flow?
or should I leave them alone?

Leave them alone as far as increasing the flow. A #68 drill bit is .031. It's not like a squirt squirt, it's a constant flow. Take a pump oil can and one squirt flows a lot of oil, think of that times eight.

http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm

 

[jaluhn83]

Increased oil flow woln't get you much IHMO - ceramic coating the piston tops is a much better way to help with heat load as this reduces the heat going into the pistons to begin with. On my current build I find that the oil sump temp doesn't rise as much as the previous setup and I attribute this primarily to the ceramic coating - previous setup (banks wg turbo) the oil temp under load would climb to 10-20* higher than water temp, current setup it stays within about 10*. No change to the oil cooler, so this to me says that less heat is entering the oil likely due to piston coating since this is the greatest source of heat addition to the oil.

Would also have to be careful to ensure you didn't rob too much of the oil flow from the rest of the system, and you might actually get worse cooling if the larger holes result in lower pressure and hence a weaker jet, not to mention starving other important parts of the engine.

 

[IDIoit]

will leave em alone, and loc-tite them back in,
my pistons should be back from ceramic coating this week, i hope.
soon as they do, ill take them down to the machine shop and swap em, also check the rods while im there.

 

[typ4]

With that being an unknown reman engine, I would get some new bolts, they are just a grade 8 place bolt. If some dope overtightened them on the reman they could be a problem later. I boughtmine from here years ago.

https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk2.asp?code=7035&title=Place+Bolts

 

[laserjock]

Chrome those squirters...

That's bound to be 25 hp. My old buddy used to say his chrome dipstick was good for 15.

 

[IDIoit]

That's bound to be 25 hp. My old buddy used to say his chrome dipstick was good for 15.

25 hp per hole!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

After you reinstall them. Turn the engine over by hand and make sure that there's plenty of clearance between the piston and oil squirter. If one somehow got bent, the piston will eventually break it off after hitting it for a while. It may not be the best thing to do, but you can stick a pry bar or something down there and bend them slightly if there's a clearance issue. If you're careful with them, there shouldn't be a problem, but it doesn't hurt to check anyway. Cheap insurance!

 

[IDIoit]

After you reinstall them. Turn the engine over by hand and make sure that there's plenty of clearance between the piston and oil squirter. If one somehow got bent, the piston will eventually break it off after hitting it for a while. It may not be the best thing to do, but you can stick a pry bar or something down there and bend them slightly if there's a clearance issue. If you're careful with them, there shouldn't be a problem, but it doesn't hurt to check anyway. Cheap insurance!

will do, but ill use a piece of wood if need be

 

[riotwarrior]

Platerscene will provide a ni e clear interpretation and cross sectional view of clearance....same way to do cheap piston to valve clearance test.