No cold start OBS 7.3

[m67tang]

Wish I had seen that first. Especially Since it’s gonna sit anyway.

 

[madpogue]

It's a shame these issues wait until single digit temperatures to rear their head.

They don't wait until single digits to be tested. You check winter-necessary systems the same way you check your furnace -- BEFORE you need them the first time.

 

[Nick382]

They don't wait until single digits to be tested. You check winter-necessary systems the same way you check your furnace -- BEFORE you need them the first time.

That's a very good point. I should adopt the proactive approach versus the damage control method I have now!


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[79jasper]

In all fairness, I believe he recently got it. Lol

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[m67tang]

Yeah, I’m from the IDI side of the fence. Got this truck a couple months ago. I asked a mechanic relative about it and was told DI engines don’t really need glow plugs. I’m thinking I was misinformed.
Maybe I can learn my way thru this quickly. I hope. Oh well. So I finally remembered to check here for the truth.

 

[DaveBen]

IDI's need good working Glow Plugs. You were not correctly informed.

 

[79jasper]

And really, so do the PSD.
If/when my relay quits, I can tell. Even at 50-60°F.

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[m67tang]

So, getting back with everyone. I hooked up the new GP relay. Now getting 11.*** to the glows. Not sure why it’s not the full 12.*** ? Now we’re having a warm spell of 45f+ so I can only wait and see what happens next time it’s 10f outside.

Wish I had seen the stancor relay before I ordered a replacement. I’ll get one anyway for next time.
Is there a wiring diagram to use for the stancor? Gotta know what is the “s” and “I” terminals.

 

[m67tang]

Also- I cleaned up the ring leads and make sure everything was clean and making good connection.

 

[madpogue]

S and I terminals refer to a starter relay, specifically for a gasser. The Stancor and Western Plow relays (and any generic GP relay, for that matter) consists simply of two circuits, the coil circuit which is the two small terminals, and the contact circuit which is the two large terminals. Neither circuit is polarized in the relay, so you don't need to worry about which small terminal is which, or which large terminal is which. As long as you connect the terminals the same way as with the original relay, you're good to go.

 

[m67tang]

S and I terminals refer to a starter relay, specifically for a gasser. The Stancor and Western Plow relays (and any generic GP relay, for that matter) consists simply of two circuits, the coil circuit which is the two small terminals, and the contact circuit which is the two large terminals. Neither circuit is polarized in the relay, so you don't need to worry about which small terminal is which, or which large terminal is which. As long as you connect the terminals the same way as with the original relay, you're good to go.

So, the small rings go to the small terminals, and the large go to the large terminals. And that’s all there is to it. No polarity needed?

 

[m67tang]

I already understand NOT to touch the rings together while working in it. I unhooked the batteries too.

 

[madpogue]

So, the small rings go to the small terminals, and the large go to the large terminals. And that’s all there is to it. No polarity needed?

That's it.

 

[m67tang]

Definitely getting a stancor. And shouldn’t I have voltage to glows same voltage as the batteries? I’ve lost 1 volt somewhere.

 

[madpogue]

The current load of the GPs brings down the voltage some. 11V is not that low. They key is - check the voltage on each big terminal WHILE the GPs are running. If the DIFFERENCE between them is more than 0.3V, the relay needs replaced.