No bs radiator replacement

[Nero]

So I need to replace my original brass radiator, and I'd prefer to go aluminum, but unsure how many cores I should get. Local stores seem to average 2 codes, but I was thinking 3? I only use my truck to haul my camper and boat, and I'm soon to join the turbo club, so replacing my partially restricted radiator is on my to do list.
I'm not too worried about cost. Obviously I don't want no $1000 radiator, but what should I get? Trying to avoid composite tanks, and champion radiators. Want something that will perform and last.

Thanks Y'all

 

[Big Bart]

Nero have you thought about re-coring the brass one you have?

If they do it right you are good for another decade at a minimum. You will likely go through two aluminum ones before a recore will fail. No need to any customization or tweaks.

I paid $900 to get mine re-cored which was a little high side but it was a very reputable shop. I am glad I did!

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

It might not even need a new core. Around here its about $150 to have an original radiator disassembled, rodded, and put back together. Its then as good as new.
I have a two row plastic and aluminum in my 94 turbo and it does not cool anywhere near as well as the original radiator did.

 

[Nero]

I've called a few radiator shops around this area, and they said they don't rod or recore them anymore.
Last time I went camping with my in bed and my samurai in tow, my temp gauge actually creeper up a little. When I do my turbo kit I'll also be installing a coolant gauge so I can see actual temps on the fly.

Is the consensus that aluminum radiators in these just aren't that good? It's odd, cause all the semis I work on all have aluminum with plastic tanks, and they push a lot of miles on them.

 

[TNBrett]

It’s definitely not a consensus. I’d say thoroughly discussed and not settled. I have an aluminum and plastic one in my truck. It’s what was in it when I bought it. I have no issues with it. I generally don’t prefer an all aluminum radiator do to the way aluminum cracks with fatigue and vibration. If there were inherent design flaws in aluminum and plastic radiators then I don’t think you would see them in 100% of liquid cooled engines in new cars, trucks, tractors, and equipment in the last 15-20 years. What’s the newest thing anyone on here has seen that came from the factory with a copper and brass radiator. I’ve got two pieces of equipment at work with them that are from around 2000-02.

 

[u2slow]

The last time I needed a rad for my Dodge it was $700-750 locally. Rockauto got a Spectra-Premium to my doorstep for $500. It was a metal-tank rad; not alum/plastic. It's going on 4 years now.

 

[Nero]

Thanks for the input guys, I think I'm going to try a solid aluminum radiator, see how it goes. I'll hang onto my old brass one as well, just in case. It is an original one, fins aren't rotting out yet, but you can see calcium buildup in the filler hole.

 

[rvitko]

My radiator wasn't much different than what yours sounds like and all I did was remove it, cap the lower opening, fill it with 1 part muriatic acid to 20 parts water, took a couple gallons, let it sit about 10 minutes and flush it out, a ton of crap came out and from what I could see inside it really opened it up and it bubbled a lot. Don;t take too long or think stronger is better as muriatic will slowly damage the metal, especially the solder. After that I reassembled everything without the thermostat and ran about a tbsp of cascade in just water until the gauge came up, heater on and everything going, then drain and rinse and repeated with about a cup of oxalic acid. In the old days when radiators were all copper brass, almost every radiator cleaner was oxalic acid, its toxic, but it is very safe on copper/brass and cleans it out well, it will destroy aluminum though and keep that in mind, if your heater core is aluminum, it will eat it up. Since I fully flushed everything I never have any issues.

 

[DaveBen]

Here is a company that supplies copper cores; https://usradiator.com/cores They are located in Alabama.

 

[Isaac Ristow]

I have a champion 4 core in mine couldn't be happier

 

[1mouse3]

I have a champion 4 core in mine couldn't be happier

I went with the 3 core champion and works fine, have not yet ran it in summer heat.

 

[Nero]

I have a champion 4 core in mine couldn't be happier

I want to get a four core champion, but they're backordered til mid May, and I need my truck in early June... Guess I'll figure something out.

 

[1mouse3]

They do have the 3 core listed in stock, I think it is marginally more durable over the 4 core from reading on them. There are those that have used the 2 core with success, but I think that one might be boarder line useable.

champion radiator

 

[Nero]

One thing I read is that the 4 core has up on the 3 is it triggers the fan thermostat more efficiently? I think mine doesn't work at all, seems stuck on 24/7.

 

[1mouse3]

One thing I read is that the 4 core has up on the 3 is it triggers the fan thermostat more efficiently? I think mine doesn't work at all, seems stuck on 24/7.

I have a bmw 61311378073 switch for my sho fan that is 90/98C & 194/208.4F, the low side does not stay on for me with one fan. When I had the copper one in I was only seeing the high come on for days close to 100F, so will be putting the second one in before summer. Not sure how this will relate to the oem fan but I see the 3 core suits the purpose for what I have so far.


This is how much the singe fan covers the radiator and there is room for a second like this.

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