Newbie here!

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Buck Nasty, Sep 11, 2018.

  1. Buck Nasty

    Buck Nasty Registered User

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    Hey I am looking into buying my first Ford diesel, it is a 1991 f350 srw 5 speed 4x4 reg cab. I do not know gear ratio only saw pics and videos has 109,000 miles motor looks clean, body has some rust only on bed from what i could tell, is two different pain so bed has been changed before, but I'm just curious about if i do buy, which parts might I change first? Says original miles and glow plugs been changed out it is ready for winter it says, guy owned it 5 years loves it but wants to sell because no time to restore and needs more room in garage for his mustang, I just need know what can i expect to change first? What might I look for, I'm no mechanic, I read up on antifreeze so i got idea on that, I'll be towing my trailer with it, i travel for living, thanks for help
     
  2. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

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    A better question might be "what should I check before I buy so that I don't need to spend a lot of money after I buy a truck". Google this and you should come up with a good list that includes engine & trans condition, tires, fuel system, lights, blinkers gauges, fuel switch, the list goes on. Be sure to check (the entire truck) for rust (web search should help identify problem areas).

    Just to make sure I answer the question you asked, I always seem to want to redo the most of fuel system (injectors, injection pump, filter, and return lines) for about 1k. Usually want tires - another 1k. I seem to find other small things door hinges, window seals, electrical issues that need to be addressed. These things don't cost a lot of money if you do them yourself. I don't think these are great trucks for people who aren't willing to learn some basic mechanical skills and spend some time "getting their hands dirty" - so be realistic about your willingness to work on it. That said, you can learn just about everything you need to know from this site, add some some patience and trial and error, and I'm sure you can do it if you are willing to try.
     
  3. Buck Nasty

    Buck Nasty Registered User

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    Thanks
     
  4. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    How much is he asking? If he's desperate to get rid of it, for like $400, then maybe it'll be worth all the parts you got to put into it. But if he's asking $3500 and you still need to drop $1500 or so just to get it up to speed, then you might want to pass.
     
  5. Buck Nasty

    Buck Nasty Registered User

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    He was asking 1800- but said he would take 1500, im not sure what it's going to need, was just trying get ball park figure, its 27 years old and in illinois, so I figure not great shape
     
  6. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    When I lived in Wisconsin, it didn't matter how many miles were on it and how much rust it had, but if a truck has 4x4, that meant it was a minimum of $1000. Factor in the running diesel and manual tranny and that puts you close to his minimum. I'd say $1000 would be a good buy, $1500 would be a decent compromise.

    It would be nice if it already had the turbo, but not a deal breaker.

    As for what you need to change... That would depend on the symptoms. These IDI's can run for hundreds of thousands of miles. It might be ok right now, or it might need an IP, injectors, fuel pump, and more stuff. Who knows really.

    Make sure the PO put in Motorcraft GP's, or else those cheapo plugs will swell in your engine.
     
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  7. Buck Nasty

    Buck Nasty Registered User

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    Okay thanks and he told me if I buy it change wheel bearings immediately, so I asked if he knew local shop he could take it and I'd pay them or him now and get fixed before i come and pick it up, the reason I asked is I've been working many hours monday was 20 hours, usually 66 a week but sometimes maybe 100. So he called and was qutoed 1000$ two are our but I'd change upper lower both side, that seem fair? This seemed high to me, parts on the trucks is another reason I loved it they COST NOTHING, just want other opinions thanks
     
  8. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    What kind of work do you do? If you work that much, and you need reliable transportation, then I'd look more at a car (something like a late-90's early 2000's VW TDI), rather than an 80's IDI truck. Especially a truck that is already suspicious. You don't want to break down on your way to work.
     
  9. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    That’s insane for bearings.
     
  10. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    So.... This makes absolutely no sense. Did you mean "$1000 to R&R but I'd change inner and outer?"

    Sounds pretty high to me. I couldn't imagine it taking more than MAYBE 4 hours at a shop. That should be less than $400 in LABOR and lets say they screw you on parts maybe $200 in parts (new bearings and seals). I can't see how it should be more than $600 for that job but that's all just guessing based on what I know.

    Pull the wheel, caliper, and lockout hub off, pull off the hub nut, take races out of the rotor, pack the new bearings, put them in, torque the wheel nut and slap the hub, caliper, and wheel back on. It's not THAT complicated unless I'm missing something.

    I'd expect to be more around the $300-400 mark at a shop around here but I don't know what your labor rates are around you.

    As @genscripter said, in the area it's priced appropriately for a "decent" truck, but not a beat the tar out of rust bucket. You DON'T want to get into a mess if you can't afford the time to fix it. These things are relatively simple to work on but with everything I've had to do to mine I'd have sold it before paying a shop to fix it.

    Do you have any pictures you can share with us to give us an idea what condition it's in?
     
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  11. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Maybe he meant ball joints? That still seems a little bit high for ball joints, but tit would be closer.
     
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  12. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    If it truly is just a simple bearing job, I'd just order a set of rockauto bearings, bring some synthetic grease, and just do the bearing job on site. It's not that hard. And to save $1000, it would be worth it. It's been so long since I did the bearings on my E350, that I can't recall all the steps, but it sounds pretty much like what @chillman88 described. From what I can recall.



    Exactly. Until you really get in there and repair, replace, and maintain this truck, it will be a while before it will be moderately "reliable." It will take some time and money to get this in a state that you'll be confident to make it a daily driver.

    If I were you, I'd buy the Premium AAA membership immediately. It takes 90 days for your "premium" plan to kick in, but once it does, you can get one 200-mile tow and several 100-mile tows per year for free. It might be a life saver. The cost is just under $100/year, but consider the cost of one long tow and you are saving money with the first tow.
     
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  13. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    To put it into perspective, the wife got too close to the shoulder checking on someone last winter and gently slid into the ditch herself. Just to winch her out of the ditch onto the road was $125. IF AAA does winch outs that'd have been worth the money right there. I don't know if they do, but I'm thinking I'll be looking into it myself soon.
     
  14. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    I think they do. They'll jump your truck, add some fuel, help bleed injector lines (i've had them help me with that on the van once), pull you out the ditch, tow you home, and so on. It's pretty nice.

    Also, the other cool thing about AAA is that is connected to the driver, not the vehicle. So once I was a passenger in my wife's car, and the ECM went out. I called my AAA account and they towed her car to the shop at no expense. It's crazy.
     
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  15. Buck Nasty

    Buck Nasty Registered User

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    Yes meant ball joint I apologize and I have great insurance, Im just ready get oldie, but i told the guy i probably won't buy, 1000$ is crazy, for 1500$ truck, i get working on old trucks, I've got 50k in 1956 and 23k in a 93, and lots into a 2000 I understand that , so I went and bought brand new and honestly, it's not my cup of tea, electronics is ridiculous,,nice sure but me personally wouldn't mind manual windows manual transmission, no AC i old type(wife and kids are opposite), I travel from Texas Louisiana, alaska, minnesota Wisconsin California , Virginia you name it, i bet I've been there, but I been looking around and I'm bit foolish i am impulse buyer,,just right now lol so i been looking around bit more I suppose,
     

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