New truck 1983 6.9 IDI

IDIBRONCO

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Roehre008 - You might add the year and model of your truck in your signature so we don't have to keep guessing when you are looking for help. Go to your picture at the top of this page and click on your user name. Then go to signature and add this information.
This one would be a 1983 F250 as per his first post.
 

IDIBRONCO

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So I am up here working on the truck.
Are you in Stephenville?
the junk yard
This may be the fastest way to get one.
You know of anyone I can find one from?
It's kind of iffy, but if you're not in a hurry, I should be heading down to Mineral Wells maybe sometime in the next couple of months. I have one that I could probably get rid of. I have no promises on whether or not I'll actually be going that way though.
 

franklin2

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You can do a junkyard search on www.car-part.com. I did one in Texas and many many yards and trucks came up crossing over to yours. All the way from 1983 thru 1996. They must all be the same, f150 thru f350 gas or diesel. You would probably have to keep your mounting brackets though.
 

Stu Bailey

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Also what would be the best set up with what you see in the pic for cross country driving? Fuel efficiency as well as towing a horse trailer. I’m 22 and I’ve been to every state west of Texas and started in WA. Having two horses I figured this truck would be the way to go. So here she is
There are a few outfits out there that will sell a larger rear fuel tank. You’ll have to remove the spare tire holder and place your tire somewhere else but if you go that route you’ll have 57 gallons of fuel all under the bed. 38 gallons in the rear and 19 midship.
 

david85

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Just to confirm, that's the ATS 088 turbocharger. Although for what it's worth, I have the 088 setup with the older 085 rectangular airbox. It seems they are interchangeable. The best way to distinguish between the 085 and 088 by looking at the turbine side of the turbo. The older 085 is just a regular off the shelf casting, while the later 088 was custom cast for ATS.
 

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Roehre008

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Thank y’all for your replies!! I am in Washington State right now, leaving for Texas tomorrow evening. Got the pulley situation figured and new tires and rims. One thing I have a question about, the guy before me put an electric fuel pump in the truck. Manual switch. The truck will sometimes sound like it doesn’t have enough fuel, mostly when I’m in the main boost of the turbo. Like driving freeway going 60-65 and she will chug down and sound like no fuel, but when I flip the electric fuel pump on, when she builds pressure she runs normal again. Ideas?
 

IDIBRONCO

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One thing I have a question about, the guy before me put an electric fuel pump in the truck. Manual switch. The truck will sometimes sound like it doesn’t have enough fuel, mostly when I’m in the main boost of the turbo. Like driving freeway going 60-65 and she will chug down and sound like no fuel, but when I flip the electric fuel pump on, when she builds pressure she runs normal again. Ideas?
It sounds, to me, like either you have a partially clogged fuel supply, or else your mechanical lift pump isn't able to keep up with your engine's fuel needs which probably means that it needs to be replaced.
Also when I drive it the oil temp gets up to about 260-280, any idea about that?
Do you know where the gauge sender is located? If it's in the oil pan, that seems to be on the high side to me. I may be wrong on that though. I would think that the oil temp would be closer to your coolant temp while driving empty.
 

franklin2

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Thank y’all for your replies!! I am in Washington State right now, leaving for Texas tomorrow evening. Got the pulley situation figured and new tires and rims. One thing I have a question about, the guy before me put an electric fuel pump in the truck. Manual switch. The truck will sometimes sound like it doesn’t have enough fuel, mostly when I’m in the main boost of the turbo. Like driving freeway going 60-65 and she will chug down and sound like no fuel, but when I flip the electric fuel pump on, when she builds pressure she runs normal again. Ideas?
Sounds like you are running the mechanical and the electric together. I never did like that, I run one or the other as far as the plumbing is concerned. I never did like the mechanical pump trying to pull through an electric pump that is not running, or a electric pump pushing through the mechanical pump, running or not.
 

Roehre008

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Question, replaced alternator and truck smoked and lost all power, no light nothing. Not even my hot plug. Is it the regulator? Replaced the starting cylenoid. I can’t figure it out and I’m stuck in hermiston
 

Roehre008

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I’ve done everything I can think of. Replaced the starting cylenoid, replaced alternator, electrical circuit box. I’ve cut most of the fuseable links and replaced with butt connectors. I have power going to the cylenoid, no power to the fuse box. Thing is I can’t find no diagrams or anything cause there’s a wire already ran snd I could use that to replace the power wire to the fuse box. But got nothing. Dead in the water. No lights, no electrical at all
 

Jesus Freak

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Sometimes, if it's still the factory battery cables, there will be corrosion inside the battery connector that you can't see. My dually did this, I almost went crazy.
 

Old Goat

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Another thing, not just corrosion at the battery connector. It can go down inside the cable covering. You clean every thing up with baking Soda etc.... and you don`t see the real problem.

When we got the 86, the Pos. battery connections were pretty rough, beat up and corroded.
Replaced the section across the Core support, cut it at the Pass side battery and crimped on Ring terminals. Changed the Batt. clamp to one with a bolt. Section to the Starter I didn`t change, but pulled it and washed off all the oil and grime. Then noticed all the checks (cracks) in the insulation.
Never seen that before. So put on a piece of heat shrink tubing and called it good.
That was probably 7 yr ago.

Couple years ago I replaced both Ground Cables because they were like that also. Most likely that way 7 years ago, just didn`t pay any attention.
Had NAPA make up both with Ring terminals.
Amazing how much more plyable the new one`s are compared to the original 36 yr old originals were.

There are some models of BMW`s that have the Battery in the trunk. Saw one at PNP one day and removed it. From the trunk, goes through the back wall, runs along inside Rocker, then through the Fire Wall to a connection on the Engine side.
It about 12ft long, and at the time was $5.

This is what I used as the Positive between the 2 batteries. used the Battery clamp end on the drivers side. It`s the same size as the original Ford Cable.
Also was a good time to change to a larger size, the wire that goes to the Starter & GP Relay, they were pretty iffy.



Goat
 
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