Do you have a picture of the sludge in the "new" heads...... Just want to make sure it's not from valve guides.......
I can grab a picture in the next day or two. It defiantly looks like the bulk of the sludge it’s above the valve and springs, more around the push rod holes.Do you have a picture of the sludge in the "new" heads...... Just want to make sure it's not from valve guides.......
Thanks man, this quarantine is a perfect time so I’m trying to take advantage of it. There’s a pretty low mileage one out here in LA on Craigslist for $3500. It’s been up for about a month. Pretty clean.That looks like a nice van. I've been looking for IDI for a couple years now. That last one I saw that I liked was $7500 and I balked. Van was sold the next day. Still looking. You're making good progress, keep up the good work.
Thanks man!Dude. I love all the work you are putting into this IDI Van. You have the same fuel setup as I have (I mounted mine on the crossmember), and also, your junction block is very similar to my fuel manifold I made.
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I was able to check my fuel pressure in the bay with the mechanical gauge on the hub, and put in a fuel pressure electrical sensor for the gauge in my overhead pod, and get a temp sensor for my fuel temp (for the biofuel circuit), and have a bleeder extension to reach up to the top of the radiator area.
You're going to love having that stock filter gone. Such a pain to drain in the engine bay, and it blocks all the driver's side injectors from the front of the engine bay. Putting the dual filters on the rail is a life saver.
I bet putting that block in without the intake made it really easy. I've been able to remove the engine with the IP and injector lines still in, but by lifting the body a few inches up off the frame. After than, I thought it was more hassle to lift the body than to just remove the IP and injectors and lines, then lift it with the intake in place. It's tight, but doable.
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Removing the intake should make it a much easier job.
Awesome work. keep the pictures coming.