New IP and injectors still wont start

Dodonne2

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1986 f250 with 250k miles. I have put new return lines, caps, injectors, injection pump, lift pump and it wont start. It cranks and blows white smoke out the exhaust meaning fuel is getting to cylinders. There are no leaks on the caps or lines l. I have retarded and advanced the IP to no avail. There is plenty of fuel pressure at the shrader valve at the fuel filter housing. The injectors are brand new. The IP was rebuild from a questionable rebuilder pensecola. I have tested with another IP from a different 6.9 I own and it still didn't start.
Before any of this work the truck started fine in sub zero temps NOT PLUGGED IN. I live in Colorado and spend a lot of time in the mountains below 10 degrees over night. Started fine all the time. Now it wont start at all.
My question is, will a rebuilt IP cause a scenario where the truck would now need to be plugged in to start? Would a different IP make a truck harder to cold start? If so, why?
 

Selahdoor

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When you changed the IP, did you remove it gear and all, or did you remove the ip from the gear and leave the gear and it's housing intact?
 
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gandalf

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...The IP was rebuild from a questionable rebuilder pensecola. ...

I think what you're saying is that your IP was rebuilt by Pensecola. You used the operative word, questionable. Read the "Hall of Shame" here on this forum. Pensecola does not have an enviable reputation.

That being said, you have tested the engine with a 'known good' IP. Are you sure you've gotten all the air out of the system? You don't mention the glow plugs or any of the system. Is it good? The previous poster asked a pertinent question about your process in changing the IP.
 

Thewespaul

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The first startup is going to have the most demand from the starting system, so just because it wont start now when it previously didnt have issues with the other pump doesnt necessarily mean that the new pump is junk. Disconnect your glow plugs and give it just a kiss of ether when its cranking and you see white smoke out the tailpipe and it will fire and likely fire every time after that.
 

IDIoit

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Pensacola diesel.
01 7.3 PS
took them 4 shipments to get me a working set of injectors.
good luck with that.
 

Dodonne2

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The glow plug system was changed out after it burned out from a stuck relay back in September. I installed a 6.0 GP harness with a push button and the bullet style glow plugs. After the glow plugs burnt out I was able to start the truck for over a month no problem in 15 degree weather not plugged in. Even if the new GP system isnt working the truck should start because it had no problem without glow plugs before I swapped IP and injectors. I also tested each individual glowplug with a test light and each GP has power to it. Injectors are brand new from Napa with a 3 year warranty.
With a quick half second spray of ether the truck starts right up and idles fine right away.
I know I know pensecola is the devil. The previous pump in this truck ran fine for 5 years before I swapped it and it was from pensecola. I know the other pump I tested the truck with is a good pump, my other truck starts pretty quick, the pump is from diesel care and performance, almost brand new as well.
The truck not starting unless ether is used leads me to believe the no start has something to do with cylinder temperature and that the fuel isnt igniting because of a cold block scenario. Does this make sense at all? I'm going to plug the truck in tomorrow and try to start it again and I'll let you jnow how it goes. If it does start with the block heater plugged in I'll be even more confused! Why would a new IP and injectors cause a scenario in which the truck now requires the block heater?

I left the gearing and timing cover alone when removing the pump
 

Dodonne2

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Though y'all now have me feeling like maybe it is just a crap pump from pensecola. This is the 2nd one ive had to put in from them this time around. The first pump they sent me last month would start but loose power and acceleration at 2200 rpm. Maybe it is just another crap pump. Hmmmm
 

bbjordan

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If it fires up right away with ether, the problem is with your glow plug system. Just because the GP tests good, doesn't mean its glowing...could be a bad relay? Is the GP relay engaging? Does the voltmeter drop to about 8 when the plugs are glowing?
 

Black dawg

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If it fires up right away with ether, the problem is with your glow plug system. Just because the GP tests good, doesn't mean its glowing...could be a bad relay? Is the GP relay engaging? Does the voltmeter drop to about 8 when the plugs are glowing?



this......


THese engines don't start without glow plugs. What brand glow plugs did you put in it? Even the beru bullet connector plugs don't like manual control, and if you put some of the other brands in there, I wouldn't be surprised if they burnt up in a very short amount of time.

For the trucks I work on, manual control gets bosch 80034 plugs. They are a little slower, but they will not burn out.
 

Dodonne2

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I put motorcraft zd9 glow plugs in. I understand that the glow plugs are crucial to start these trucks. Why then did it start for over 1 month with no glow plugs working in sub 30 degree weather? That is where I get confused. I will have a friend check the volts while I push the glow plug button today.
 

Dodonne2

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The GP is engaging I can hear the click on the relay. The whole system, relay, harness, GPS were replaced and I have double checked injave current going to glow plugs when pushing the button. Maybe the ZD9 motorcraft GPS dont work with a manual push button at all?
 

Selahdoor

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Mine are working just fine with a manual pushbutton.
 

dgr

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Fuel, Air, compression ~ heat. You've proven the fuel and air. There needs to be enough heat in the cylinder to kerplode the diesel air mix. That takes some or all of the glow plugs, a warm combustion chamber, sufficient seal between rings and valves and sufficient rpms from the starter.
 
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