New age headlights

BrianX128

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Where did you get those turn-run kits?
I have those identical ones I got a few years ago, which I separated each LED housing, extended the three wires at each housing, and mounted on a touring bike through the hard saddlebags and 55L top box.
Was trying to find the vendor again to do custom running board lighting on the C350.
Love the final product, bet it looks great

 

03wr250f

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on my truck about 7 years ago i bought aussie headlights, shipped them over and then retrofitted 5x7 headlight housings with a 35w hid projector morimoto mini h1 7.0 in 4500k color.

since then I have added a set of diode dynamics ss3 max fog lights in amber and a set of dd ss3 sport driving pattern and a rigidhorse led light bar both toggled on with the high beams, so i have a incredible fogs and low beams and sun mimicry type high beams. plus everthing is sae compliant except for the light bar.
 

Hagan

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@Hagan, how did you mount the projectors in the headlights?

As Brian said they are mounted through the bulb hole on the headlights. I had to drill a hole through the housing for 2 wires. The hardest part was baking the lights to remove the lense.
Yeah, where's the write-up? :popcorn
Unfortunately I never did a write up. It was pretty easy though.
Maybe you're the one who I remember doing this?
That's possible. I don't usually post much though.
 

Nero

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I have morimoto mini h1 7.0 35w hid projectors in 5000k
Doing hid projectors you end up doing a headlight relay kit. (Which for me didn't do squat for stock lights with better bulbs)
Did you buy the morimoto mini h1 as a prebuilt drop in, or did you have to make it yourself? Finally about to pull the trigger on this.
 

divemaster5734

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(~4500K) but saw no indications when viewed with the LEDs (~6500K). None of us really thought of performing that test, fortunately our QA/CWI manager is a borderline genius. Scrapped all the LEDs after that.
The jump to 6500K put the light well into the blue spectrum.
I personally wouldn't use anything outside of the 5000-6000K range, as this is the best red/blue mix for the whitest light for driving, but will still distort color reflection.
All retail chains use 4000 - 4400K lighting for displays, as this is the closest to sunlight, and doesn't distort the color of the reflected light off the items in display.
HID and Halogen were the choice for decades, but the actual main purpose of all those types, including all incandescent, is to generate heat, and light is just a byproduct.
We are paying for that wasted heat to be generated with every lamp, even LED's, as a diode can only pass DC, so AC has to be filtered with a rectifier and ripple cap, with heat loss during every change of state of the energy.
There's much less energy loss with LED's.
There's a cult of folks that perhaps think the higher intensity the better, but I disagree.
The high frequencies of 6000 and up will bounce and reflect off the airborne water droplets in fog, rain, or snow, which can blind the driver.
Clear night driving will see a further reach of blue, but all around driving that will be adequate for most conditions needs to be a lower kelvin rating.
Some folks also like to refer to the Doppler Effect as their justification, but that really only manifests in sound here on earth for our purposes in this discussion.
It reminds me of the ECM.
Manufacturers set the parameters to handle most conditions, which means we will then use tuners to get best towing, a different tune for freeway mileage, one for 1/4 mile run, etc.
Unless I'm going to install a couple different banks of lights to match the different conditions I'll stick with an all around temperature and not overdrive my lighting.
 

divemaster5734

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on my truck about 7 years ago i bought aussie headlights, shipped them over and then retrofitted 5x7 headlight housings with a 35w hid projector morimoto mini h1 7.0 in 4500k color.

since then I have added a set of diode dynamics ss3 max fog lights in amber and a set of dd ss3 sport driving pattern and a rigidhorse led light bar both toggled on with the high beams, so i have a incredible fogs and low beams and sun mimicry type high beams. plus everthing is sae compliant except for the light bar.
Seriously the perfect temp.
Now I know what I'm doing.
 

divemaster5734

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What's that you're saying? I don't understand a word of Greek! ;Poke :joker::rotflmao
Had a '07 FX4 with Edge programmer.
Also had a printout of four different tunes based on use.
Spent many hours going through all the different parameters.
After all that, only bothered to actually change the tune a few times.
Mostly for long trips or "heavy" hauling, but not much of that to be done with a 1/2 ton gasser.
Pretty spoiled with the ecodiesel zf8h 8 speed and factory air bags anyway.
Didn't say much before anyway, just enough techo-babble to make your head spin..lol
 

KansasIDI

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These are the 5700K Holley Retrobright lights. They are a white light, but seem softer than some other options. The road picture is low beams, and the picture of the truck with lights on is with the high beams on. I was standing about where I thought a truck in the opposite direction would be, but perhaps I am too far off to the right. The glare is little worse at car windshield height, and at low beams there isn’t hardly any glare.

I don’t know that these will be the last headlights that I install, I may look into HID projectors at some point, but these are most definitely a huge improvement.

The Aussie conversion was extremely straightforward. I doubt it even took me a half hour in total to install them.

11/10, would recommend. Pricy but if you drive in the dark quite a bit, they are absolutely worth it. High quality stuff for sure. And thanks to OBS Solutions, the Aussie kits aren’t terribly difficult to get ahold of. And with the Ranch Hand bumper on my truck, the lights are well protected.
 

IDIBRONCO

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The glare is little worse at car windshield height,
Well :flipa to them!
I think those look pretty good. They do work well. My only complaint would be that they appear to be sealed beam lights. Anymore, I prefer to just replace a bulb instead of the entire light.
Nope. I found one more complaint. They are plastic lights. I prefer the non yellowing of glass. For the price, I hope they last a LOOOONG time before turning yellow.
 

ROCK HARVEY

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Wow those lights blow my stock headlights out of the water, even with my relays and extra-bright bulbs. This really makes me want to attempt a DIY Aussie conversion
 

IDIBRONCO

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This really makes me want to attempt a DIY Aussie conversion
If you can stomach the purchase price, it's well worth it!
It's not a great picture, but this is the low beams on my 1985. I have bought the same set up plus the Aussies to use in my 1987.
 

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