New addition to the stable

[LCAM-01XA]

Alright the small barb fitting on the elbow for your IP feed line is factory, and to my knowledge cannot be removed. If you can get an elbow from a 7.3 engine it will not have that elbow. If that's not an option, then you can cap it off in the same manner the extra barb was capped at the last injector. Or you can do like you suggested and get a brass T-ee in place of the plastic one, tho you may have to hit a hardware store for that. Spring clamps you can buy by the box from a parts store, likely from their commercial counter in the back or off to the side.

The olives, I never did mine, but if you can't burn them off you can always slice and dice them with a knife. Resharpening of knife will likely be required afterwards tho. It's been said here on OBN that 5/16" fuel hose can be cut into new olives, but I cannot personally confirm or deny it.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Found a brass tee in the help! Section that fits onto the hose after some muscle, should work well.

I have the olives soaking in brake fluid to make removal easier. Problem is, they are stuck in the nut. May attack with a heat gun next? Aside from a fire place lighter, nothing fancy like a torch. Typ4 sent some, so I'll Put them on. Does red wax on parts of the injection pump mean it is factory?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Excellent find with the metal T-ee! Basic propane torch is very inexpensive, and so is the fuel for it - may wanna invest in one for general use. You don't need the fancy self-igniter kind, just what is essentially a nozzle with a flow valve at the bottom. But I'd think that even your fireplace igniter will work for what you're doing, just need to hold it on there longer.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Excellent find with the metal T-ee! Basic propane torch is very inexpensive, and so is the fuel for it - may wanna invest in one for general use. You don't need the fancy self-igniter kind, just what is essentially a nozzle with a flow valve at the bottom. But I'd think that even your fireplace igniter will work for what you're doing, just need to hold it on there longer.

It's downstairs right now, I'll take a photo later and give the part number. Comes with three t connectors for $9. Not too bad. China made, but what can you do? Says 60 psi rated.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You'll be fine, the return line system on these is very low pressure, IIRC the numbers 2-3 psi were thrown around not too long ago. And I sometimes have better luck with new Chinese parts than US-reman ones... Place of origin don't mean squat these days it seems.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Anyone have tips for getting the back injector line near the brake booster back onto the injector top? All it wants to do is cross thread. Rubber damper clamps are off so the lines can move around. Throwing a wrench didn't help? if I can't finger tighten it on, then something is wrong... How come when I tighten down some of the injector lines as much as they will go I see threads and some I don't see threads? Hope this is normal and I don't get a river of fuel!

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Anyone have tips for getting the back injector line near the brake booster back onto the injector top? All it wants to do is cross thread. Rubber damper clamps are off so the lines can move around. Throwing a wrench didn't help? if I can't finger tighten it on, then something is wrong... How come when I tighten down some of the injector lines as much as they will go I see threads and some I don't see threads? Hope this is normal and I don't get a river of fuel!

 

[The Warden]

Are you having a problem with the line not wanting to sit on the injector properly, or are the threads fouled up?

If it's the former, I've found that, once all of the isolator clamps are removed, the best thing to do is to get the nut out of the way, then put some pressure on the line to get the flared end sitting properly in the injector. Once it's in place, then keep pressure in place with one hand while using the other hand to get the nut started. You should be able to get the nut most of the way on by hand or with very limited force from a wrench. I usually use an open-end wrench with light pressure to get it most of the way down, then switch to a flare-nut wrench to torque the nut down.

You asked why you still see threads in some lines and not in others...I have a feeling that the flare on the end of the line isn't seated properly on the injector on the ones where you can still see the threads. I would take them apart and take a look...make sure the flare fittings on both ends are clean, and make sure that they're interfacing properly.

If it's the latter, you're either going to need to replace the line or the injector, depending on which threads are fouled up. Any chance of getting pictures?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

What the Warden said - lines are kinda springy, you have to somewhat force them on the injectors by hand till they sit square, then you tighten nut by hand almost all the way. Additionally, at least one of my lines was way off when released from the injector, so instead of keeping it under spring constant tension I chose to slightly rebend it so it lines up with the injector better - not sure if that's generally a good idea or not, but I personally haven't had problems with it...

 

[mohavewolfpup]

For whatever reason, the injector is cross threaded. Cue wrench throwing and swear words... If a tap and die set doesn't fix this, I will be very angry. Can't afford 1000+ in new injectors and pump. Easy job my ******** ass....

Guess my only consolation prize is removing the pass side kick panel and finding a car hauler receipt rental? Dated 5-12-88 from a place in Oklahoma. Seems the owner in nipotomo? California hauled a race car? According to it... Bet the car is still running unlike mine!

 

[The Warden]

THAT really sucks...I am sorry to hear

You don't need to do the pump right now...you can just do the injectors. Also, if finances are tight and the other injectors are in reasonable shape...it's generally recommended to do all of the injectors, but in a pinch, you can do just the bad one so you can get back on the road. Unfortunately, I don't think a tap and die set is going to repair it, although you don't have anything to lose other than time by trying...

Also...with all due respect...I know you're upset and I understand your mindset completely, but I would recommend editing your last post. Some of the moderators don't take very kindly to swear words...

 

[mohavewolfpup]

THAT really sucks...I am sorry to hear

You don't need to do the pump right now...you can just do the injectors. Also, if finances are tight and the other injectors are in reasonable shape...it's generally recommended to do all of the injectors, but in a pinch, you can do just the bad one so you can get back on the road. Unfortunately, I don't think a tap and die set is going to repair it, although you don't have anything to lose other than time by trying...

Also...with all due respect...I know you're upset and I understand your mindset completely, but I would recommend editing your last post. Some of the moderators don't take very kindly to swear words...

I can't afford a pissy injector from O'Reilly destroying the pump suddenly on the road 300 miles to California.....

 

[79jasper]

A leaky injector line shouldn't cause pump damage...

Pretty sure it was said that the nut is actually stronger metal than the injector. So usually the line and nut is still good.
I'm a bit more optimistic, I think you may be able to fix the threads.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

A leaky injector line shouldn't cause pump damage...

Pretty sure it was said that the nut is actually stronger metal than the injector. So usually the line and nut is still good.
I'm a bit more optimistic, I think you may be able to fix the threads.

Thought new injectors run pumps into the ground?

 

[79jasper]

Not always. I mean if the pump is on its last leg, then you through on a set of matched hi-pop injectors, then yes it would run it into the ground. But I doubt a single injector would do it.
But it could throw off the timing for that cylinder if the rest of the injectors are pretty worn.