Need To Replace Oil Cooler

[boxathey]

Hello, quick question. Im getting ready to change my oil cooler in my 2004 6.0l im seeing right around 30 degree delta. I already have a sinister egr delete kit installed. do i have to take the intake manifold off to get the oil cooler off.

 

[fordf350man]

6.0L Engine
1.Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.

2.Remove the intake manifold.

3.Remove the bolts and the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler supply port cover.

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Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler supply port cover—6.0L engine


4.Remove and discard the press-in-place gasket. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

5.Remove the bolts and the oil filter base. Remove and discard the press-in-place gasket. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.


WARNING
In the event of a catastrophic engine failure, always install a new oil cooler cover assembly (with oil cooler). Foreign material cannot be removed from the oil cooler.




NOTE
The oil cooler is replaced as an assembly.



6.Remove the bolts and the oil cooler assembly. Remove and discard the press-in-place gasket. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

7.Remove the oil pump inlet strainer. Clean and inspect the strainer for tears or other signs of damage.

To install:

1.Install the oil pump inlet strainer.

2.Install the gasket in the oil cooler assembly cover.


WARNING
In the event of a catastrophic engine failure, always install a new oil cooler cover assembly (with oil cooler). Foreign material cannot be removed from the oil cooler.

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Oil cooler bolt torque sequence—6.0L engine


3.Install the oil cooler assembly and the bolts. Torque the bolts as shown in the accompanying illustration.

4.Install the gasket in the oil filter base.

5.Install the oil filter base and the bolts.

6.Install the seal on the EGR cooler coolant supply port cover.

7.Install the EGR cooler coolant supply port cover and the bolts.

8.Install the intake manifold.

 

[fordf350man]

looks like you do, hope this helps

 

[boxathey]

Huge thumbs up. Thank you. I'm going to print this out today at work. Did you get that out of a factory ford manual. If so I need to get one. I should have one anyways.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Most oil coolers come with a new screw for the hpop sump. If not get one and replace it!!
The factory mesh ones fail and if it looks good and you don't replace it, it will fail shortly thereafter.
The updated screens are a metal mesh and hold up much better lessening the chances of getting crap in the screen on the ipr valve.
theres 2 bolts on the intake that hold the fan shroud in place and those are 15mm heads and are fun to get at unless you have small hands.
A trick I've also learned is to take some small zip ties and place them around the fuel lines coming off the filer assembly. If not, the nuts will slide down into places that sunlight doesn't penetrate.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Just an FYI, you might want to consider installing a coolant filter and/or doing the flush before putting on another oil cooler. You are definitely looking at the right thing by measuring the delta, just remember that if you don't get all the stuff out of your coolant system, you might plug the next cooler. There's lots of info out there on this, my buddy did the chemical flush (is your coolant green or orange?) and then the cooler, EGR delete, etc

The flush is a ton of work, but if you get all the crud out you'll never have to do this again.

Good luck, its a big job.

 

[boxathey]

The oil cooler kit is a sinister diesel oil cooler it does come with a new metal mesh screen. Thanks for the tips I will definitely use them.

I haven't updated my SIG in a little while, but I did install a sinister diesel coolant bypass filter kit unfortunately it was after I found out my oil cooler is partially clogged. Probably 100-200 miles on the filter. I wanted to do a complete system flush and I read up on it and like you said it looks like a ton of time and work. I have the next three days off and my goal is to get this truck finished by Sunday. I was not going to do the complete flush but flush the radiator. And drain the block while I was changing the cooler. To flush the radiator I was going to use a garden hose. I know its not the correct most complete way but I don't think I have time to do the flush properly on the other hand I definitely don't want to be throwing money away by needing another cooler again in a short amount of time because i didn't feel like doing a complete flush. What's your thoughts ?

I also was going to use new moto craft gold coolant because of me not doing a complete flush

 

[boxathey]

Oh ya the coolant is yellow

 

[FordGuy100]

Switch to Cat ELC Coolant. Ford Gold is part of the reason why these things clog. It says it has a 100K mile service interval, but at around 50K stuff starts to drop out of the mixture and that goop is part of what clogs the cooler.

I hear you on the flush taking time. I would try to do as much as you can with your time. I need to flush mine before an oil cooler install. I plan on doing restore and restore plus, and then opening up the block and running it for a couple minutes with a hose in the degas bottle so it can run with water flowing out.

 

[FordGuy100]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1I5kWPd-zgg

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Popping the drain plugs out of the block will shorten flush time immensely.

 

[FordGuy100]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...ure=iv&hd=1&src_vid=1I5kWPd-zgg&v=XNKSToD7Gqg

 

[boxathey]

Thanks for the videos as soon as I get out of work I'll watch them

 

[fordf350man]

no but i can get the ford info from work, i work in a ford building and have access to there pts website, i got that off of chilton online, every michigan resident gets chilton on line for free

 

[boxathey]

Great idea running the truck with the garden hose in the degass bottle with the block plug open.

I'm in about eight to ten hours so far. I tore the vgt turbo apart cleaned it and anti seized it. Its out back together waiting to be reinstalled. Everything looked great in the turbo except I noticed a little bit of play from side to side when pressing on the intake side of the turbo. I removed the oil cooler and installed the new cooler gaskets etc. Syphoned out the oil sump and replaced the hpop screen. I have a couple quick questions though. Should I refill the sump area where the oil cooler sits in. Im just wondering if upon initial start up I won't have any oil flowing till the cooler and the sump fills up.
also the cooler core I took out of the truck had a bunch of holes on the top of the core. this one does not. Was that the original style ?