need some info on egts

[gsxjay]

ok fellow burners i just did an entire brake up date lines everything an put my new gauges in now i put the new pyro probe in the passenger mannie and my concern is when i get on it i can get the temp up to 1150 an just touch 1200 be fore i let off now my trucks pump isnt turn up any is this normal and at idle its at 200 i try not to ask questions as much as i can but these temp numbers kinda got me freekd out what could be wrong or is it normal to be able to get them that high with out being loaded?

 

[Ididriver]

That's normal.
That's exatly why every idi should have a egt gauge. Stock or not.
With a proper fuel system and good ip it will make some hot temps.
Just don't keep it at 1200 for very long.

 

[FordGuy100]

If your thermocouple is in the exhaust manifold that sounds normal. I wouldn't go more than 1150* sustained, that's probably were I would draw the line. Anything over 1200*, I would probably only stay there for a minute or two, less time as your temps go >1200*

 

[gsxjay]

ok thanks for the speedy reply thats good info to know

 

[PwrSmoke]

1150 sustained is too high for my engine but with your probe in the manifold and not up at the turbo, it's probably reading a little higher than mine, so maybe it's not a biggie. Mine is mounted in the turbo mount just before the turbo.

My '86 has had a turbo since '87. Banks recommended no more than 1150 in those days and I stayed at 950-1000 sustained. Even at that, when I recently overhauled the engine, one that has done a lot of hard work but has been well maintained, the heads were a mess. Probably from too long at high EGTs. Do you know for sure you pump hasn't been cranked up? Also, does you engine still have the crushed downpipe. I have been told that this pipe tends to make the EGTs higher than they normally might be.

Why not check your drive pressure (back pressure before the turbo)? Pull your EGT probe and instal a fitting and about 18 inches of copper line. Find a 0-20 psi pressure gauge with the biggest dial you can find, and run the hose out so you can have the gauge hanging off the mirror. Make a few full power, rev to the limit runs and note both drive and boost pressures.

Ideally, drive and boost will be equal. Even better than ideal is when drive pressure is less than boost (that's truly free hp then!). If drive pressure is lots higher than boost, then either your exhaust is restricted or the turbo is too small. Most people will accept a 1.5:1 ratio between drive and boost pressure (10 psi boost = 15 psi drive) but above 1.5:1, you are building up a lot more cylinder pressure. You will usually see higher drive pressure on a wastegated turbo, especially if you tweak the linkage to get more boost. One engine developer that worked on our engine back in the day told me that this was why many of the early turbo kits used non-wastegated turbos because they flow better and create less drive pressure (generally) than wastegated turbos, even if they don't make a lot of boost down low.

I had both wastegated and non-wastegated turbos on my 6.2L GM and the non wastegated had much lower EGTs at the same fuel setting and load. The difference was that the low speed performance of the wastegated turbo was noticeably better.

I hope you'll, or someone, will do this so I can compare your results to mine... wastegated turbo vs non, to see the difference.

 

[PwrSmoke]

1150 sustained is too high for my engine but with your probe in the manifold and not up at the turbo, it's probably reading a little higher than mine, so maybe it's not a biggie. Mine is mounted in the turbo mount just before the turbo.

My '86 has had a turbo since '87. Banks recommended no more than 1150 in those days and I stayed at 950-1000 sustained. Even at that, when I recently overhauled the engine, one that has done a lot of hard work but has been well maintained, the heads were a mess. Probably from too long at high EGTs. Do you know for sure you pump hasn't been cranked up? Also, does you engine still have the crushed downpipe. I have been told that this pipe tends to make the EGTs higher than they normally might be.

Why not check your drive pressure (back pressure before the turbo)? Pull your EGT probe and instal a fitting and about 18 inches of copper line. Find a 0-20 psi pressure gauge with the biggest dial you can find, and run the hose out so you can have the gauge hanging off the mirror. Make a few full power, rev to the limit runs and note both drive and boost pressures.

Ideally, drive and boost will be equal. Even better than ideal is when drive pressure is less than boost (that's truly free hp then!). If drive pressure is lots higher than boost, then either your exhaust is restricted or the turbo is too small. Most people will accept a 1.5:1 ratio between drive and boost pressure (10 psi boost = 15 psi drive) but above 1.5:1, you are building up a lot more cylinder pressure (and high EGTs) . You will usually see higher drive pressure on a wastegated turbo, especially if you tweak the linkage to get more boost. One engine developer that worked on our engine back in the day told me that this was why many of the early turbo kits used non-wastegated turbos because they flow better and create less drive pressure (generally) than wastegated turbos, even if they don't make a lot of boost down low.

I had both wastegated and non-wastegated turbos on my 6.2L GM and the non wastegated had much lower EGTs at the same fuel setting and load. The difference was that the low speed performance of the wastegated turbo was noticeably better.

I hope you'll, or someone, will do this so I can compare your results to mine... wastegated turbo vs non, to see the difference.

 

[gsxjay]

ill check that today powersmoke an yes i do have stock down pipe i got the truck from the original owner and he assured me that the truck was never tampered with and since it dosent smoke i think he was honest with me

 

[Hyde]

Mine is stock but im kinda glad I dont have one to look at grossing 15k on a 7% grade 1200 is the "safe" limit they say, ive pegged a gauge though so who knows.

 

[PwrSmoke]

Sorry for the double post... how'd that happen!

A new downpipe used to be available from ATS but I haven't checked in a while. Might try Banks and Hypermax too. The aftermarket products for our trucks is on the decline, looks like. Worst comes to worst, you could pull the pipe and have a replacement made.

Bottom line, in "The Day" replaceing that pipe alone was worth a couple of pounds of boost, less smoke and lower EGT's, as well as a few horsepower. Legend has it that crushed pipe was installed to limit boost and power... because when unrestrained, the turbo IDI made more power than the 1st Gen Powerstroke that was just coming out. I make no claim that it's actually true, but it's nice to think about. ATS was involved in helping Ford design the Turbo system for your truck. These were the ATS folks that started the company in Utah back in the '80s, not the company that's now in Colorado (not that they aren't fine folks and all).

 

[PwrSmoke]

Sorry for the double post... how'd that happen!

A new downpipe used to be available from ATS but I haven't checked in a while. Might try Banks and Hypermax too. The aftermarket products for our trucks is on the decline, looks like. Worst comes to worst, you could pull the pipe and have a replacement made.

Bottom line, in "The Day" replaceing that pipe alone was worth a couple of pounds of boost, less smoke and lower EGT's, as well as a few horsepower. Legend has it that crushed pipe was installed to limit boost and power... because when unrestrained, the turbo IDI made more power than the 1st Gen Powerstroke that was just coming out. I make no claim that it's actually true, but it's nice to think about. ATS was involved in helping Ford design the Turbo system for your truck. These were the ATS folks that started the company in Utah back in the '80s, not the company that's now in Colorado (not that they aren't fine folks and all).

 

[wmoguy]

Sorry for the double post... how'd that happen!

A new downpipe used to be available from ATS but I haven't checked in a while. Might try Banks and Hypermax too. The aftermarket products for our trucks is on the decline, looks like. Worst comes to worst, you could pull the pipe and have a replacement made.

Bottom line, in "The Day" replaceing that pipe alone was worth a couple of pounds of boost, less smoke and lower EGT's, as well as a few horsepower. Legend has it that crushed pipe was installed to limit boost and power... because when unrestrained, the turbo IDI made more power than the 1st Gen Powerstroke that was just coming out. I make no claim that it's actually true, but it's nice to think about. ATS was involved in helping Ford design the Turbo system for your truck. These were the ATS folks that started the company in Utah back in the '80s, not the company that's now in Colorado (not that they aren't fine folks and all).

One can get an aftermarket downpipe for the ATS 093 systems via Banks still. Some minor plumbing work has to be done to tie into your exhaust in most cases, but the DP works like a charm