Need some help!

[RLDSL]

Cool thanks for the help ill try and get to it tomorrow, just out of curiousty though, why is it necessary to hold it at WOT while bleeding the fuel system of air?

Thanks

-Jordan-

Because you are letting maximum fuel through the IP, if you have your foot off the throttle, it is only feeding the injectors a trickle and it can take forever to bleed them off, This is the same reason that standard starting procedure for any indirect injection diesel is half throttle till it coughs then let off, and below freezing full throttle till it coughs. basically serves the same purpose as a choke in providing a tad extra fuel to assist at startup.

 

[marblecrusher]

Cool thanks alot, ive been a mechanic for a while but this is the first time im really gettin into workin on an old 7.3, so alot of this is new stuff to me lol. Thanks again guys.

 

[Goofyexponent]

Cool thanks alot, ive been a mechanic for a while but this is the first time im really gettin into workin on an old 7.3, so alot of this is new stuff to me lol. Thanks again guys.

Not a problem at all! At first, I was a little scared of them, but looking at them more and more, and fixing stuff, I find that they are not a whole mre complicated than the old mechanical engines I work on/drive in the big rigs.

 

[marblecrusher]

Not a problem at all! At first, I was a little scared of them, but looking at them more and more, and fixing stuff, I find that they are not a whole mre complicated than the old mechanical engines I work on/drive in the big rigs.

Im noticing the same thing myself. Oh and looks like my return lines were a bit old and bringin in air, so i went ahead and ordered a return line kit and new injectors from Pensacola Diesel. So hopefully all will be well by the end of the week, other than the fact that i may need new batteries after this is all over lol

 

[marblecrusher]

Alright another questions, As far as wiring up my FSS to a hot switch, what do i do with the existing wire that i isnt powerin up? With out it hooked up the the FSS terminal my wait to start light and my Glow plugs dont come on, does that wire coming to the FSS also power the glow plugs? If so do i need to keep that wire connected the the FSS and also run my hot wire into that terminal? Sorry if this is confusing hopefully someone will understand what im talkin about. lol

Thanks as always

-Jordan-

 

[Goofyexponent]

What I did for mine, was this.....now try and keep up because I am about to cunfuse us BOTH! lol

My GP's are fired off the starter solenoid. An aftermarket "fix" that takes an 8 gauge wire from the live side of the starter solenoid and carries current to the live side of the GP relay.

There are two yellow wires in the factory engine wiring harness that are SUPPOSED to power the GP relay, I cut these out and did the following.

Fuse letter K in this diagram for the underhood fuse panel are live all the time with the key on. Originally, they controlled power to the GP system. I used this fuse to fire a solenoid (solenoid wired hard into the battery for supply, the small activation wire run into fuse "K")

When I turn the key on, the solenoid fires up and lights up a 6 slot ATC fuse block. One slot activates the GP's, one activates the CB, one for the FSS (the wire I cut out and taped up back where the wire harness for the engine plugs into the truck at the driver side inner fender) and I have 3 un-used slots (driving lights, aux. reverse lights and aux. power inverter when I get them installed)

This way, when you turn the key to run, the gp's fire up, the FSS turns on and the timing advance and high idle work as they would from teh factory...no toggle switch needed.

make sense?

As far as factory wiring goes, my truck was a MESS when I bought it. The FSS was on a switch, the GP's wouldn't work and the headlight switch was re-wired.....all in 12 gauge WHITE wire....so I was ALWAYS chasing a white wire when I had to work on the truck.

 

[marblecrusher]

Alright that sounds like a good plan for a permanent fix but would running the original wire to the FSS, and running my hot wire with a switch to the FSS terminal be alright for a temporary week or two fix?

 

[Goofyexponent]

Well, so long as your GP's, timing advance, high idle and FSS all kick on, I don't see why not.

 

[marblecrusher]

should all still work im not taking out any wires, and im running a seperate wire to the ones that werent getting power, like i said i just need it to be a week or 2 temp fix.

 

[Agnem]

Any time you are having problems bleeding a pump, disconnect your glow plug controller, and if you really want to make things nice, take your glow plugs out. This will save your starter and batteries big time.

 

[marblecrusher]

Thanks again, im gonna try to get this done soon but im in the process of finishing moving into a new house, so it may be a little bit

 

[Goofyexponent]

when you are ready to fix it permanently, let me know and I will take a few pics of my setup and how I wired it...it works A1!

 

[marblecrusher]

when you are ready to fix it permanently, let me know and I will take a few pics of my setup and how I wired it...it works A1!

Sweet man that sould work well by the way you described it too me, Im about burnt out on wiring problems between this truck and the International 7400 thats been givin me hell tryin to find some wiring issues at work lol