Need opinions on timing issue

[Sidewinded_idi]

I don't think you did like I told you to do. If you jumpered the Cold Advance Solenoid on the IP, take it off, then advance the IP that 1/16".

Energizing the IP Cold Advance Solenoid all the time is NOT good. There is a cam on the throttle shaft that advances the IP timing as the throttle (speed up) is advanced, Keeping the Cold Advance Solenoid energized all the time the IP timing is advanced fully, therefore the IP timing cannot advance anymore in relationship to throttle opening (speed). Do like I say and you'll get better response from the engine. Might even cure your hot start.

EDIT: The CAS IP cam should be at the position in the pic at Idle RPM.

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Correct I have not done that yet, I've been on the road all day and jumpered the solenoid this morning, hopefully tonight or tomorrow I will scribe the casing and advance like you described. I will let you know when I do. Is there any audible or subtle alarms to look out for with too much advance? I'm only going to go a 1/16 or should I do it further if my cruise egt aren't in the 500 range?

 

[Thewespaul]

You wont have any alarming issues if you are too advanced, you will know you went too far if the engine is overly rattly and seems to drive more lazy.

 

[OLDBULL8]

With the Cold Advance jumpered, your 2-1/2* to 3* advanced, advancing the IP 1/16" will advance the timing 2-1/2* to 3*. You have to understand that your timing will advance even further if the IP cam is working, not fully advanced.

Don't worry about the EGT's, as long as they don't go above 800* cruising. EGT's very greatly with speed, load, head winds, turbo exhaust leaks, air filter, fuel supply and hill's to name a few.

 

[BrianX128]

I did the same thing you did with the jumper after mine was slightly retarded to the ears of members at last years rally. It seemed better, and my egts were always lower except on super steep hills then what most posted here, then they would really fly. (unloaded crew cab zf5), I advanced mine about 1/16 probably more properly and unhooked my cheater toggle switch and my egts cruising went up to 450-500 no matter the speed on flat ground unless I was coasting even slightly downhill, but going uphill now unloaded I can go up a 3 mile grade going 75 and my egt's won't go over 1000, won't even go over 1000 slamming up a super steep grade in 4th with well over 1 ton of gravel in the bed.

All kinds of power if you advance it right, just signs you need to advance it if you use the cheater switch lol.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

Yes I really appreciate all your guys input. I mainly wanted to jump it to see if advancing it would help. If I understand correctly advancing the pump by degreeing it will set it say 2-3 degrees and the throttle cam will advance it further from there

 

[hoodshauler]

Yes I really appreciate all your guys input. I mainly wanted to jump it to see if advancing it would help. If I understand correctly advancing the pump by degreeing it will set it say 2-3 degrees and the throttle cam will advance it further from there

Yep you got it right


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[OLDBULL8]

Yes I really appreciate all your guys input. I mainly wanted to jump it to see if advancing it would help. If I understand correctly advancing the pump by degreeing it will set it say 2-3 degrees and the throttle cam will advance it further from there

Yes, that's correct.

 

[bbjordan]

The throttle cam (Light Load Advance Cam) actually retards the timing the more you have your foot into it. The diagram below shows how it works. The right hand side is the view from the rear of the pump. As you step on it, the cam pushes the "advance" plunger in causing the distributor cam to retard. You can try it yourself with the engine running. When you push on the bottom of the lever moving the plunger (Spring piston) in, you will hear the engine get more quiet and idle down a bit.

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