need gp info in one thread

[6.5dieselman]

i sorry for another glowplug thread but i have lost all the other threads i posted in and i need to get this fixed being 15* outside. My truck has been switched to the solid glow plug system. i recently replaced 7 of the 8 burned out motorcraft plugs with bosch ones. injector line was in the way of the last one and i was pressed for time. In 30degree weather, i had to cycle the plugs 5 to 7 times(49 clicks of the controller each cycle) and even with the pedal to the floor it would barely hit off. now it takes 10 cycles and sometimes still doesn't start. Would one glowplug cause this or is it something else. someone please help cause this is getting to be a major headache

 

[6.5dieselman]

anyone

 

[Agnem]

The 7.3 system can be tested this way. Rig up a way to put a voltmeter probe on the #2 glow plug, without disconnecting it. I use a thin wire under the connector and hold my probe to this. Have an assistant turn the key on, and verify that the initial voltage to the glow plug is around 6 or 7 volts max. The voltage should slowly climb until you get to about 11 volts at which point the wait to start light should go out. If the voltage starts out at a higher value, climbs too quickly, or doesn't move at all, then you have a glow plug or wiring issue. You can test the glow plug relay by putting a volt meter across the large lugs. At rest, you should see full battery voltage. When the relay is energized, you should get a reading of less than .1 volt.

 

[J D Recovery]

I put the bosch in this fall and love them one cycle for me about 15 or so clicks in a cycle. Its been cold in MD snow and all no problems, but I do plug in at night but sits 8-10 hours in the day at work.

 

[6.5dieselman]

i got it mostly fixed. one of the glowplug wires worked it's way off and when i plugged it in it took one cycle with it to the floor

 

[sle2115]

try not touching the fuel pedal...if you put mine to the floor, it will crank forever. Or, try shoving it down once and letting up to set the advance, do this while the glow plugs are cycling or just as soon as you start to crank (ie...when the system is energized). Mine will start within 1 revolution or quicker, never plugged in. Push the fuel pedal down any and hold it and you may not get it to start. It's that way cold or hot weather wise.

 

[dyoung14]

This is why i prefer the old system its not so tempermental about if one glow plugs is bad none will heat, i only got 6 good glow plugs and 30 degrees mine wil light off on the first turn of the engine, thats with 6 AC 8G's

 

[Goofyexponent]

First thing I'd do is toss those Bosch plugs in the garbage! I burnt 16 of them up in no time flat! Being replaed with 8 new beru's as soon as the mail guy drops them off!

 

[6.5dieselman]

i can't afford new plugs now and i checked them yesterday and all but the one i didn't replace were good. the bad one turned out to be a motorcraft

 

[Agnem]

Remember that a larger charge of fuel will have a bigger cooling effect on the glow plugs, and the throttle position will also retard the timing. Also, when you crank, your best optimum chance of starting is in the first revolution of the engine. The glow plug has super heated the air in the prechamber. After the first compression stroke, that air will be flushed out and replaced with super cooled air from outside the cylinder. Mid-throttle and 10 compression strokes seem to be about the optimum for my engines. At some point the balance between heat leaving the cylinder and metal surfaces warming from air compression start to balance out, but that may happen later, rather than sooner, and unfortunately when you stop cranking everything starts to cool off again, and you get no further along. It's a very diffcult balance when the glow plugs are not working properly.

 

[6.5dieselman]

i just went by what the original ford owner manual said to do which is below 32*F, hold the pedal all the way to the floor

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Never heard of the "hold the pedal to the floor" rule before. I mash mine down and let off to set the cold advance and thats it.

 

[6.5dieselman]

one the visor it says above 32degree, hold pedal half way down, below 32degrees, hold it all the way down and let off as soon as it fires.

 

[franklin2]

one the visor it says above 32degree, hold pedal half way down, below 32degrees, hold it all the way down and let off as soon as it fires.

I was going to say everyone needs to pull down their sun visors and read the "proper way" to start the engine.

That being said, whatever works best for your engine is what I would go with. I am wondering what Ford engineering group worked with International to get this engine installed and working properly. I have the feeling the Ford group wasn't into diesel's very much. You can see it when you work on one of these trucks. The difference in the Ford parts added to the engine and the parts originally installed by International is very apparent.

 

[Agnem]

I read mine a long time ago, and chose to ignore that advice. After all, if it is 90 degrees outside, I see no benefit in putting the throttle half way down and having my engine rev to life at some 2000+ RPM with no oil circuilating in it yet. I strongly feel that 80% of the guidance manufactures give is to reduce emissions (to make the EPA happy), and coincidentally, those same instructions lead to the early replacement of parts. What incentive is there for them to give you instructions on how to make your engine and truck last longer?