My first E4OD…what is the issue?

[OldIron82]

Hello everyone. 1990 F350 7.3 with a E4OD. This is my first automatic, I’ve always had ZF5’s.

I’ve gone down lots of rabbit holes reading tech articles and other threads and unfortunately I just feel I have to make my own thread to try to get guidance.

1. Here goes. With the selector in DRIVE:

…2nd, 3rd, and 4th… When you let off the throttle, the transmission neutrals out and when you get back on the throttle it reengages at the rpm it was at before you let off.

2. If you are sitting at a stop and get on the throttle and get up to highway speed it will shift flawlessly 1-2-3-4 but once you let off, the engine unhooks and is neutral until you get back on the throttle and bring the RPMs back to where you let off at.

3. Selector in 2: engine stays with transmission no matter what. Selector in 1… engine stays with trans no matter what.

THINGS I KNOW TO BE TRUE:

1.No flashing OD off light.
2.The antilock brake light is on constantly.
3. Switch for brake lights on the brake pedal is screwy. Sometimes the rear lights go on, sometimes they don’t. Always power to one side of the brake pedal switch verified with test light.
4. I do not know the health of the FIPL.
5. I ordered a OBD one scanner to plug into this and I am awaiting its arrival.

That’s all for now. I can tell you the transmission is a Jasper, it still has a serial number sticker on the side of it, but it is older than 10 years because Jasper has no record of that number anymore. The fluid is beautiful at the correct level and it does not smell burned at all. The truck has been off the road for a ridiculous amount of time and was found at a farm and the last inspection was in 2005.

If it is most likely a mechanical problem, I am already at peace with having to tear it out of the truck, but if it is something stupid electrical, which from what I gather on my research very well could be, I’m hoping somebody could point me in the right direction if this issue sounds familiar to them.

Thank you all so much for reading.

 

[steve phillips]

I can probably get you an ATSG e40d trouble shooting manual, I also have a lot of other e40d trouble shooting information, if you want. Some quick things to check are 1] ecm fuse 2] solenoid pack connector on passenger side of truck , check for burned/melted wires 3] transmission range selector on the drivers side of truck looked for burnt wires. you can do this while waiting for your obd1 scanner. there is a procedure to use scanner for codes, if you dont follow this you will not get accurate results. Track speedster is an e40d expert, I am sure he will help as soon as he see this.

 

[OldIron82]

Thank you for the start. I appreciate it. I will check those things and report back.
Please school me on the procedure for proper scanning

 

[tradergem]

I would fix the brake light switch and any other brake light problems first just to make sure they aren't sending incorrect signals to the transmission which can cause transmission problems too.

 

[steve phillips]

how to use obd1 scanner 94 ford diesel with e40d transmission - Search Videos

www.bing.com

 

[steve phillips]

I believe that video explains it better than I can type

 

[KansasIDI]

It shouldn’t neutral out immediately, but rather, taper off gradually after letting off.

I haven’t heard of this problem, I would suspect electronics first with an E4OD.

Brake light wiring is an excellent place to start

 

[steve phillips]

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1408676-e40d-tranny-going-into-neutral-while-driving.html read down to mark kosvolskys post, he is retired for engineer

 

[IDIBRONCO]

As far as staying in gear in 2 or 1, I believe that's perfectly normal. From my experience, most auto trannies do that.

 

[KansasIDI]

As far as staying in gear in 2 or 1, I believe that's perfectly normal. From my experience, most auto trannies do that.

My dump truck did that for the short time the E4OD held together

 

[IDIBOBS]

Yea the 1,2!thing is normal. 1st starts in 1st and holds 1st. 2nd starts off in second for slippery, wet snow, mud, ect and holds second and in the E4od will lock the torque converter when in 2 for steep long climbs to stop slip and heat. It’s actually a pretty nice system when it works.

Does the issue happen with over drive locked out/turned off also?

 

[OldIron82]

That’s a good question, I will check that asap

 

[onetonjohn]

You can get an A4OD manual (in PDF form) from ATSG. They have (the most complete) debugging flow chart. I got all the domestic ones on a CD. Guess what file is corrupted???

 

[aggiediesel01]

Search this site for the astg manual. You should find it without too much trouble. I’m pretty sure I’ve uploaded a copy or link on here more than once. Maybe in the powerstroke forum. My ‘97 has always had a gentle unlock and relock of the torque converter when lifting my foot and then re-accelerating in OD. I don’t remember noticing it in the lower gears but always in OD. I had a buddy with a ‘96 powerstroke and a chip and that unlock/lock was disabled. He let off his accelerator on an icy freeway and the rear end broke loose and spun the truck. Ruined that beautiful low mileage OBS. I’m pretty convinced that happened because of the locked torque converter with engine braking and no significant weight on the rear tires. I have always thought it was supposed to behave that way. I’m pretty sure it doesn’t do it with cruise control engaged.

As mentioned by others, Manual 2 and 1 are mechanical and static engagements of each of those gears in the valve body not using the electrical solenoids if I remember correctly. That way if the electrics go out the truck is still movable.

As for other electrical gremlins always make sure the rear brake lights and switch are working correctly and the contacts are nice and clean. The antilock light on may also cause issues with the transmission so it would be best to get that off the table before chasing your tail on the shifting issue. Also on a ‘90/‘91 the turn signal/hazard switch can cause problems with the trans if it’s not working correctly because it’s tied into the rear brake light circuit. The plug and wiring going into the solenoid pack is right next to the exhaust. This is a common area to find wiring damage due to heat and dirt. Make sure the connection is clean and the pins are tight. On the drivers side is the MLPS, that item has been known to cause issues too and it has to be “calibrated” when it’s installed by lining it up correctly on the side of the trans when bolting it down. I think you use a 3/16 drill bit and push it through a couple holes to make sure it’s lined up and then tighten it down. Also check the voltage and sweep of the FIPL to make sure it calibrated correctly.

Don’t forget that the TCM is now 30 yrs old it’s entirely possible it’s working fine but it also very likely corrosion has worked its way in somewhere and causing problems. The components on the board could also be starting to get weak. If you suspect an issue with the TCM email the guys at Diesel Technology of Chattanooga Tn. I’m pretty sure they can help you work through most TCM issues.

Pretty much any post you find and read from Mark Kovalsky can be taken as gospel but TrackSpeeder here on OB has been very helpful in the past on e4od issues too.

Get the Ford EVTM and Pinpoint service Manuals for ‘90/‘91. Even back then the manuals were the most reliable way to diagnose the system accurately.

 

[aggiediesel01]

This is where the astg manuals are.

E4OD rebuild

Looking for a comprehensive list of must do's for a rebuild, I've made some notes along the way but just wondering if anyone has made a list, like billet TC, 6 pinion planetary, shift kit, front pump mod's, electrical fixes, ect. Backstory is OG trans was rebuilt by PO (company truck) around 80...

www.oilburners.net