Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Selahdoor, Jun 2, 2019.
Glad to hear you are -doing better-
Got the electric fuel pump plumbed in, today. Probably 5 minutes work, for any of youns. For me, it was about three hours work. Lots of rest. Still not over the pneumonia. (Went back to the doc, on tuesday. Got me back on more antibiotics and stuff. Seems sinus and inner ear infections have been added to the mix.)
I've never had an edelbrock like this one, NOT be able to supply just fine from this location. But after running this one today, (engine not running.) even with a couple injectors cracked open.. I am wondering if I am going to have to move this down to the frame, just in front of the selector switch.
We'll see, I guess.
Tomorrow, I hope it stays clear enough that I can do the wiring.
With that done, it will be time to see if I can get it started again.
Having any injectors cracked won't make a difference. Fuel can't get to them without the FSS being on. Then the pump needs to be turning over in order for fuel to be pumped to the injectors. If the pump's shut off in just the right position, maybe fuel could be pumped through it, with the FSS on, by an electric pump and get to one injector. I'm no expert on that one and don't know if it's possible. What makes you feel that the pump can't draw fuel? Is it not pushing fuel out the outlet side? It's possible that you have a pusher type of pump and it doesn't draw very well, but will push fuel like a SOB.
Good point. Thank you.
First, I just ran the pump. (alligator clip.) Seemed it didn't do much.
Opened the schraeder valve, tone of the pump changed, and got lots of fuel mixed with air. I spent some time getting air out of the lines, up to that point. (Should have thought of that, before. After all, I did just put new lines and pump in. They needed to be filled with fuel.)
Then pump went back to the same pitch as before.
At that point, I turned the key on, so that the fss was open. And I had a couple of injectors cracked open. Fuel barely came out of one injector, but not the other.
In the end, it seemed to me to be entirely possible the pump will do fine, when the entire system is running. My own misgivings are probably just because I was watching the pump try to push against a system that wasn't flowing.
Something I have left out, here, is that the truck is on a steep slope. It is running off of the back tank. That means fuel is literally being pushed through the lines, from the fuel tank. (I learned a long time back, that the opposite is true with the front tank. On that same steep slope, if you are on the front tank, and faced downhill, like this, you can have more than a quarter tank of fuel in there, and it will 'run out of fuel'.)
In the time that it took me to pull the old rubber line off the steel line, (Fumble around with getting the old stuff out of the way. Then get the new stuff down into position without losing the hose clamps....) and push the new rubber line on, I probably lost a pint and a half of fuel. That's how fast it flows, just from gravity.
Point is... When I get onto level ground, or am going uphill, I'll lose that 'assist'. Then what is going to happen? Will this pump actually work out? I don't know. Maybe a different location? All in all, I am doing this so I can post the results. If it is a fail, it will at least be first hand anecdotal evidence not to do this. If it works, well, there ya go!
We had major thunderstorms run through here this morning. But I am hoping it stays dry the rest of the day. If it does, I MIGHT be able to get things done again today.
I am going to put that TEE into the return lines, at the top of the IP. (I have an interesting thing to post about that.)
Then I am going to do the relay and the rest of the electrical for the fuel pump. I am debating though, whether to put it on a toggle in the cab, or to just run it using the fss as a signal for the relay.
Using a toggle, means I have to remember to turn it on!
But it also means I can run the pump, without having to have the key on. That means fewer 'meaningless' cycles on the GPs.
And also the possibility of theft deterrence. (Truck would probably start, then die, if the switch is not on. Who wants to steal a truck that has problems. Then you find the truck, a block or three, away. )
Yeah. Feeling better, and now it's been raining the last couple of days.
If I was going anywhere in the truck, I'd have to tie a knife to the front bumper, to cut my way through the rain.
Certainly not enough room between the raindrops to work on the truck...
Finally got some stuff done.
Got the fuel pump plumbed in yesterday. I didn't take any good pics of that. Got some pics, just nothing worth posting.
Well, I did get a couple, and did a drawing...
Here is the pump, all plumbed in. You can't see the connections at the far ends, but you can figure out where those go.
And here is the new TEE at the IP, for the return lines.
You might notice all of the double clamps on the fuel pump lines. That is something that I have done for decades. If you put a hose clamp on a connection like that, and want it to last longer than 'factor' would... Consider where the leaks usually occur. For one, they occur, because the hose gets old. But the other most common cause of a leak is, it leaks out right past the clamp, through the hose. Here's why.
The head of the clamp is the weak point here. It is straight across, sitting on a round connection and hose. If a leak occurs through the hose and clamp, it usually occurs at the two points you see that I marked in red.
If you put two hose clamps on, right up against each other, with the heads on the opposite sides of the fitting/hose, you eliminate the possibility of that leak. (I should have drawn another, with the second clamp. I don't mean the screws being on opposite sides. I mean the entire head is on the opposite side of the hose. Look at the clamps in my FP pic. You'll figure it out.)
Last... Fittings of the kind needed to plumb our fuel systems, are getting as hard to find in these parts, as hen's teeth. The one place that still has them, prices them like they were made out of gold. Lowes certainly doesn't have any.
Except... I discovered something. Lowes carries "shark bite" fittings for pex. After I completely struck out for finding an ordinary tee fitting that was just 3 barbs... I looked for a tee that I could screw three barbs into.Found the solid tee. Then couldn't find any barbs to screw into it.
Finally found this tee in the shark bite fittings. If you look at the package, it says 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8. But it looked for all the world like it would fit a 1/4 hose. So I bought it. 2 bucks!
And that is the fitting that is n the 1/4 hose for the return lines!
Today, I did some electrical work.
First.. Since I plan on adding a couple circuits myself. I decided to do a simple alteration/addition. I cut pieces of an old set of jumper cables, and put in a couple of extensions down to the wheel well. Terminated in 1/4-20 bolts with washers and nylocks.
Purpose of this is to have a remote positive and negative, that I can add my own circuits to. Gives me two solid places to connect to, and not wonder if I have a good connection. These connections won't get messed up because of having to be done and undone all the time, on either end, while I am doing other work.
Here is the positive.
It already has one fuse holder bolted to the end of it.
The other end, gets attached at the starter solenoid. The same positive terminal that gets fed directly from the battery, and from which I saw 5 other factors connections. (Shows it's a good place to connect.)
I made a sleeve out of foam pie insulation, that slides down over the bolt. To keep it from contact with any grounds in there. You can see it slid over the bolt in the lower half of the pic.
This is good enough for now. When I have finished tomorrow, I will wrap all of that foam in tape as an extra precaution. But eventually I'll find some other solution. A solid block like on the firewall of chevy's. Or a box that it will be sealed inside of. Etc. All of what you see here is going to look haphazard. Eventually I will get all the circuits figured out. Decide on a place for everything, and button it all up. I am just doing what works for now, and once it is on the road, I will re-do it.
And here is the FP all installed, with the relay.
The only thing left is to run the wire, (From the white wire in the pic.), into the cab, to a toggle switch, and back to power.
Like I said, I know it looks a mess. I'll clean it up, later.
You sir could use one of these:
I plan on installing one eventually, but eventually just hasn't shown up yet. I'm just too paranoid about that bolt shorting out even wrapped in pipe insulation.
I'll give you credit though, I love the ideas you come up with!
Did that harness make it to you safe?
You probably dont want to hear this but i burned out 2 of those pumps in 6 months. First one lasted 4 months, second made it 2 months and it had a hard time feeding enough fuel to run.
That is the sort of thing that I was talking about when I said "block" up above. Only I'll make it myself. It's not that difficult if you have a bunch of plastic, a drill and a bolt and nut. I will, of course, post up here, when I make mine.
I will find out about the harness today. Had a relapse and haven't been back to town while the post office was open, since. Going in, today.
Nope, didn't want to hear that. But yes, I did! The more you know, the better prepared you are.
You'll notice that I didn't use that tiny screw on, fuel filter they included. My gut told me it would quickly clog. And now I am wondering if that is why yours burned out???
I don't think it would take much at all, for that tiny metal filter to start slowing down the flow. And you don't have a clue, because you can't see inside of it. Then the pump has to work harder to move the fuel... (Maybe "planned obsolescence" in action?)
I used a separate glass filter that I can monitor to see if it is getting clogged.
By the way. The bare bolt that you see in the top, middle of the pic, is the negative bolt.
The positive bolt is inside that sleeve of foam. With the foam spun so that it is at it thickest between the two bolts. Also considering some plastic like PVC pipe, or the thick plastic casing from a caulk gun cartridge, added to the outside of that...
As I said earlier, once I have the circuits kludged in place, I'll wrap that foam in some electrical tape for some extra assurance.
I will eventually get all this cleaned up.
That looks like the kind that you can replace the filter element on instead of the whole thing.
It is. You can also just take the element out and clean it.
Yes, it did. What a beauty! Mass better than what is on the engine right now! Thank you! I'll take a pic, once it is installed.
I had a similar one years ago. I have no idea if I could have cleaned the element or not. The replacements were cheap enough that I just threw them away and replaced them.
What I liked was how the package said, "Includes: fittings, and filter element"!!!
Like it was so amazing that they included a filter element for the FILTER you were buying! (It wouldn't be much of a filter, if the element was not included. And the package doesn't say "filter HOUSING", it says filter...)
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