Promise... the build

Thewespaul

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That’s the cold advance solenoid, it drops housing pressure which relatively increases your hydraulic advance since the housing pressure counteracting the transfer pressure, if the engine runs poorly with no housing pressure sounds like another sign the pumps got some problems.
 

Selahdoor

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That’s the cold advance solenoid, it drops housing pressure which relatively increases your hydraulic advance since the housing pressure counteracting the transfer pressure, if the engine runs poorly with no housing pressure sounds like another sign the pumps got some problems.
Thank you. :D

Now let's see how long I remember that.

Wait. Sending electricity to that, drops the pressure? And if it runs poorly with no pressure, then there is a problem with the pump?

With electricity going to that, it starts well, but runs poorly. So it starts well, with no pressure, but runs poorly with no pressure.

If no electricity goes to it, it is slightly more difficult to start. Maybe three more revolutions before starting. But it runs well. So it starts poorly, but runs well with pressure...

Looks about right! :D
 
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Thewespaul

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Yes, it energizes a solenoid that moves a glass ball out of the return fitting, unrestricting the return flow. This makes less resistance to transfer pressure which makes for better filling of the plungers, more cranking fuel displacement and quicker starting out of a worn pump. By design this is supposed to be engaged until the engine is warmed up and the engine should run well with it energized. If not you’ve got problems.
 

Selahdoor

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Yes, it energizes a solenoid that moves a glass ball out of the return fitting, unrestricting the return flow. This makes less resistance to transfer pressure which makes for better filling of the plungers, more cranking fuel displacement and quicker starting out of a worn pump. By design this is supposed to be engaged until the engine is warmed up and the engine should run well with it energized. If not you’ve got problems.
Thank you very much!

I'll run it this way for a while. Way too many things to do, (besides the bunch of stuff needed done on the truck.), to "fix" something that will at least work for a while.

When I get to that point, I'll probably swap the IP out of the old truck. It had zero problems. And in time, I might send this pump off for a rebuild.
 

Selahdoor

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Ok, had to run into town today to pick up the brushes for the alternator. Just got back.

But before that, I did something I should have done already, when I installed the electric fuel pump.

I ran a 10 gauge wire, from my previous "remote power" bolt... Into the cab.

Took the rest of the dash apart, and located a good spot. In plastic. And well separated from anything else. Yet far enough behind the dash that there's no way I myself will ever come into contact with it.... I put another bolt.

Ran my 10 gauge wire to that. Terminated with a ring. And now I have a separate power source inside the cab.

Also found a bolt in the frame, near the door. Removed that, and made it a new ground point. Hung a short wire down from there, which I will either terminate with a blue, insulated female spade like you have seen me use already, as a test point for a meter probe... Or just strip the bottom of it. What's it going to do? Ground out? LOL


Once I had those done to my satisfaction, (was sure everything was safe and not likely to be contacted, like, ever....), I drilled a hole in the dash and installed the new lighted toggle for the fuel pump.

It's pretty bright. But I chose a spot where it is almost impossible to miss, if you are about to turn the truck on or off... And yet completely hidden by the steering wheel while I am driving. Well, except for flashes of it, when I am turning. LOL

It will also be bright and obvious, when I am getting out of the truck.




Something else I did this morning... Remove the electric brake controller.

Got to looking at it. It was the source and the reason for the funky wiring that was under the hood. Looked further, and I really don't like the way it was tied into the brake light switch.

So, I removed it.

Now, I am going to be curious whether between the electric brake removal, the fixing of the power windows and lock switches, and once the alt is fixed... Maybe I have solved the parasitic drain. I guess we'll eventually find out. :D
 

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I have a question. If you're worried about getting out of the truck and leaving the electric pump on, why don't you power the toggle switch off of a "switched" source? That's what i call one that is only hot when the key is on. You could use a relay to power the pump itself and the switched source to power the toggle, which would turn the relay on and off.That way, the toggle wouldn't have power to it when the key is off, no matter what position it's in.
 

Selahdoor

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I have a question. If you're worried about getting out of the truck and leaving the electric pump on, why don't you power the toggle switch off of a "switched" source? That's what i call one that is only hot when the key is on. You could use a relay to power the pump itself and the switched source to power the toggle, which would turn the relay on and off.That way, the toggle wouldn't have power to it when the key is off, no matter what position it's in.
Good question!

Makes me think.

Things do change. The reason I wanted it on a toggle, is because I wanted to get in the truck, toggle on the pump, and wait a few seconds, before turning the key on.

Reason, I did this, was mostly to prime the system, first thing.

That wouldn't have been a problem, if I didn't mind that the GPs would be turned on immediately, every time I turned the key to turn on the pump. But I DIDN'T want to have the GPs turning on, every time I wanted to run the fuel pump.

As I said, things change. I might be putting the GPs on a manual only, system that I build, myself, with a starter solenoid. If I do that, then I WILL put the fuel pump on an "on in run" circuit. That makes the most sense. (I can re-use the same hole in the dash, for the momentary on switch. Nice thing, is that it's near the key.)
 

IDIBRONCO

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I was just wondering. There's a story behind the question. It wasn't me, it was a big cattle rancher/ex rodeo cowboy that I used to work for back in the early 90's. He had a 1990 F350 CC dually, 7.3 and ZF5. He, his wife and some friends used to still go around to different rodeos, sometimes competing, but not for a living at that time. There was a "L" shaped tank in the back. I think it held around 100 gallons. There was a universal electric pump to pump fuel into the front tank. It was on a toggle switch. This guy was probably around 6 1/2' tall. the toggle was installed upside down with the "off" in the up position. It was installed this way after several times of him bumping the switch with one of his knees when he got out. In the morning, they came out of the motel to find all of the fuel from the extra tank on the ground. Of course, the switch should have been moved after the first time. If it had been wired to a switched power source, that would have kept it from happening too. My story is from my 81 F150. I have an electric pump on it too, just in case. One year in the winter time, a friend called me to come over while he was working on a four wheeler. It was probably in the lower teens temperature wise. I was smart enough to grab my coveralls when I got out so that I would be warm. What I didn't realize was that the coveralls bumped the switch when I pulled them out, turning the pump on. When I got back in the truck, I went home without realizing that the pump was running. The temperature was in the low single digits that night. I came out to a dead battery in the morning. I had to get to work, so I stole a battery out of my Bronco to use in the truck. The truck battery must have frozen because it never would hold a charge again. After buying a new battery, and after it warmed up somewhat, I turned the switch upside down and it's on a switched power source now too.
 

Selahdoor

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You know, there's instructions in other threads here, on putting a toggle on the GP system.

The point would be to put the toggle in, in such a way, that you could just leave it turned on, and the gps would operate normally. Or you could turn it off, and the GPs would not operate at all.

Since the wait to start light has now started working again, and the GP system seems to work ok, as is... I'm thinking I'll go try to find those instructions again, and set mine up that way. Using the already installed toggle.

Then put the Fuel pump on a 'switched on', circuit. That way, I could turn the GPs off when they are not needed. But the FP would be on, every time the ignition was on. (And off when it is off.)

Well, the only drawback to that is if you are testing other things on the truck, you might not want that fuel pump always on. So maybe I should put some kind of switch or disconnect at the FP itself, for those times.

Maybe as simple as a bullet connector near the FP.
 

Selahdoor

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For my frustrating experience caused by bad batteries and a politician of a multimeter from Harbor Freight... Go here... https://www.oilburners.net/threads/voltage-regulator.85927

Fuel pump... At this point I wonder if the old mechanical fuel pump was working or not.

Logic says it's likely that it was doing SOMEthing... Fuel certainly came through, just fine. Hopefully there was no leak in the diaphragm. I'll find out the next time I check the oil level.

But was it actually pumping fuel? Ok, logic again says it probably was. There was more pressure at the schraeder valve with the engine running, (and therefore the pump, pumping), than when the engine was not running.

But... Twice now, I have started the truck up, after forgetting to turn on the fuel pump... And it has started and ran and ran and ran. With no problem.

If you switch the tank switch from back to front, it will run maybe 5 minutes before it runs out of fuel. It runs for 15 minutes or more, with the electric fuel pump turned off.


The real bottom line is that with the electric pump, it runs stronger, smoother, and without any trace of smoke at the tailpipe.



Ok, wish me luck, say a prayer, think good thoughts rub your rabbits tootsies, whatever it is that you "do"...

I am going to go out there now, and do the electrical tests one more time, with my GOOD meter... And then I am considering taking it for a test drive.



It's not as easy as just starting it up and driving out the driveway. There are other vehicles to be moved. And once I have moved this... I am going to be FORCED to move another truck, WITH this one, once I get back. (It has to go UP the steep driveway. Going to have to use steel cables and pulleys and such things.)

So yeah. May put it off till monday.
 
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Selahdoor

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^That^ was supposed to be posted yesterday. LOL
 

Selahdoor

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I did take it out for a test drive.

She RUNS BEAUTIFULLY!!!! Purrs like a kitten.

I think I saw a bit of white smoke under load. I WAS running without an air cleaner. I suppose there will be some more dinking around to do, to get rid of all the smoke. I also suppose the smoke I saw, could have been coming from my road draft tube. LOL

There are problems with the trans. I'll have to figure that out. Blinking "off" light. Harsh shifts. Etc. It was definitely in limp mode on the way there. It was a bit better on the way back. Much less harsh shifts. But the off light still blinking. I never got over 20MPH, so I don't have a good idea of it's condition, really.



Drove to a friend's house, about a mile away. Checked all the fluids there. The trans was down by 7 quarts total. I had already put in 3 quarts while sitting here, months ago. Yesterday, I added another 4. For a total of 7. Yes, I'll be watching for leaks.

Oil was right on. So I guessed that correctly when I put TWO gallons in, while sitting here on the hill.

And the coolant... Well, I have put a total of 3-1/2 gallons in. Some of that was because of loss when I changed the t-stat. But it looks like changing that t-stat was a very wise choice. The coolant is definitely circulating now, once it is warmed up. And before, yes, it was nice and clear and clean looking, but I think that's because it simply wasn't circulating.



Worst was the brakes.

I was over 2000 RPMs just getting up the small hills here. On the way there. Even in 4hi, I had to push the go pedal a lot, to get it to move.

On the way back, they were not as bad. I never got over 1400 RPMs on the way back.

I learned that the pedal stays down some, and so the brakes are applied some. I can be sitting on level ground in drive, stopped dead still. Pull up on the brake pedal with my foot, and the truck starts to inch forward. Still not as much as it would if the brakes were working correctly, but it's a good indicator that the problems are not only out there at the wheels.

Still, I want to rebuild them. Hoping not to have to replace rotors or drums. But pretty much everything else is going to be up for grabs.


I have a friend who is going to help me with that, and I have until tuesday to locate all the parts I'll need. So I'll be pretty busy with research until then.


Today, however, I will probably spend most of the day trying to move the old 89 all the way to the top of the drive. Beyond, if possible, but at least to the top.

Yeah... Using THIS truck. And some logging rigging. Steel cables and logging pulleys, etc...

I'll use gravity to my advantage. Pulleys at the top of the hill. Cables run through those, from the old truck, back down to this one. And this truck below that one, on the hill. That way, while this one rolls downhill, that one gets pulled up the hill.
 

Selahdoor

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I know, right?

I am beat. But feeling good!

I didn't get everything done today, that I wanted to get done. But I got enough of it done, to feel good about.

And I have a plan for tomorrow.

:D
 

Selahdoor

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Got the old truck all the way up the hill today, using the new truck.

I know I ran that thing for almost 3 hours yesterday, and a total of over an hour today.... With the electric fuel pump turned off. Started right up, every single time. Ran forever.

Manual pump is totally disconnected. There was NO fuel pump of any kind, supplying the IP. Yet, like I said, it just started right up, and ran forever...
 
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