Promise... the build

Selahdoor

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Yeah, I'm thinking I'll just crimp and shrink tube them until I get a more powerful soldering gun.


I have no idea what my package said. It was a long time ago. I do remember that all of those were included in mine. It is kind of funny since you pointed it all out.
I think when you buy a filter, you pretty much expect a filter, and not just a housing, right? That's why I thought it was funny that they sold a filter, and not just a filter housing. And then patted themselves on the back, for including the filter... LOL



Today. Better progress.

Got the fuel pump finished. Used an old toggle, and just kind of hung the switch in the cab for now. Still in the kludging phase. When I have a reliable truck, and can afford a better toggle, I'll replace that, and mount it correctly.

Hooked the batteries back up. (For now, I am removing the negative cables before I leave it for the night.)

Then hooked up the camry, with jumper cables. Let that run for somewhere between 5 and ten minutes, while I did some other stuff. (Like putting the rear view mirror back onto the windshield. Let's see if it is still there tomorrow. LOL)

Got in. Turned on the fuel pump and let it run a bit.

Turned the key and let the glow plugs cycle. Twice, for good measure...

And she started right up.



No smoke! Maybe right at startup, I wasn't paying attention. But it immediately started running smoothly. And when I got out of the truck and walked around the front to check the tailpipe... no smoke! That was while it was still pretty cold. It hadn't warmed up much at all, at that point.

So I'm wondering... Does it smoke white smoke if it isn't getting enough fuel? If so, maybe the mechanical fuel pump I have, isn't working very well? And the electric is supplying the IP just fine. Well, with the truck at this angle, anyway.


Tomorrow, I will have to figure out the problem with the alternator, and/or volt gauge.


Today, I think I might have stumbled on my parasitic draw. I knew the windows and locks buttons on the door were kind of sticky. I sprayed those down a lot with silicone spray and worked them over and over again. They were a lot better, but apparently still not the best.

I closed the door, and was head back for the front of the truck, and thought I could faintly hear a motor or something, working. Listened carefully, and determined it was coming from inside the body of the door.

Opened the door again, smacked the bezel that the buttons are in, and the noise stopped. That couldn't have been good for those motors, either. Whichever it was that was still barely trying to work.


Removed the bezel. It's cracked. It's warped. And the buttons were obviously sticking because of contact with that bezel. Without the bezel on, the buttons all work beautifully, and instantly return to where they are supposed to be.

Tonight I will be cutting away some of the bezel where it goes round the buttons. I'll put it back on, tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem.

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Selahdoor

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Started to cut carefully with a knife. Seemed dangerous and was taking too long.

Grabbed round and square rough files, and just roughed the openings out.

Looks funky, but I'll bet it works. Going out to try it as soon as I post this.

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Way overkill. Looks like the grand canyon around every button now. Oh well. It was worth it. The buttons work as smooth as silk now. I'll get a pic of the ugly job, next time I am out there with the camera.

I'll look for replacement bezels the next time I am at the junkyard.
 
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Selahdoor

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Ok, here is the bezel after reinstall.

Like I said, really rough looking. But it works perfectly now. Buttons work and return to detente, smoothly, with no help needed. No problem with any noise from the motors in the door. And as a bonus, the bezel now fits on there tightly.

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It's certainly good enough to get me by until I can afford a replacement bezel.
 

Selahdoor

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Today's video. Sorry that it isn't up to normal youtube quality standards. A bunch of old-man-forgetfullness, and not the best camera. But you get the idea.

Started RIGHT up. Recovered from the lope, almost immediately. I think these are because of the electric fuel pump, as opposed to the manual pump.

Had a look at the tee line that I added to the top of the IP. There is always a little bit of air in that hose right there at the top. But it does seem like it will eventually clear that air, as it gets to be a tiny bit less, every time I start the engine and run it for a bit.


Then went around and had a look for smoke. This all happened just as quick as you saw in the video. So yeah, fast idle still on. Nowhere near "warmed up'. And ZERO smoke!!!! Yeah!


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Now... I do believe I could probably turn the fast idle solenoid down a bit. (The one that pushes against the pedal linkage. But the actual idle, once it has warmed up, is perfect, if not a bit slow, so I will not turn the idle down with the linkage screw.

Also, with the fast idle on the IP still connected, it still does that thing where, when you push the speed up carefully and slowly, when it reaches 1800, it jumps by itself to 3000. Also, when you tap the gas pedal, it takes longer to recover down in speed. So, I am just going to leave that IP fast idle circuit disconnected for now.

I'll test again, once it is good and cold again, to see if having that disconnected affects how it starts up. If it has problems starting up, I am considering just putting another toggle switch in the cab, and running that through the toggle. Turn it on to start, then once started and running smooth, turn it off by the toggle.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Now... I do believe I could probably turn the fast idle solenoid down a bit. (The one that pushes against the pedal linkage. But the actual idle, once it has warmed up, is perfect, if not a bit slow, so I will not turn the idle down with the linkage screw.
You can also loosen the mounting bolts that go through the bracket on the side of the injector pump. Then you can rock it back and forth if the adjustment is all taken up going in one direction.
 

Selahdoor

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You can also loosen the mounting bolts that go through the bracket on the side of the injector pump. Then you can rock it back and forth if the adjustment is all taken up going in one direction.
Yep, I got it adjusted with just the 1/4" wrench on the rod that pushes the linkage.
 

Selahdoor

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I have the alternator out, now. Gonna bring it inside in a bit and research whether it is gen2 or gen 3.

I believe that it is a 130. Two holes, not 4.

Taking it to be tested, tomorrow.

Hoping all it is, is the regulator.

While it is out, I am going to replace the T-stat. Somewhere in the back of my head, I have been kind of freaking out that such an old truck has such crystal clear coolant. (Yeah green, but crystal clear.) Makes me think the T-stat is stuck closed and has been for a long time.

So, since I already have a brand new T-stat with gasket, (motorcraft, of course.), I'm just going to replace it regardless. Might as well, since I have this much of the job done anyway. (I'd have to do all this, later, if I HAD to replace that t-stat. No point in doing it all over again.)

Also going to have to replace the heater hose that comes up from the same area. It's a tiny bit too short. And the top end is bulged meaning it needs cut back. So, whole new hose it is...


~~~


Got to say... Doc prescribed prednisone last saturday. (I had to go back in because the sinus infection that was caused by the pneumonia, had not cleared up, and was now causing a flare up in the lungs again.)

So I am on yet another course of antibiotics.

No idea why he added the prednisone.

But I have discovered that it gives me 'new life' as far as being able to work. I can move normally. I can do a lot of things normally, that I have been unable to do for years. It's like I am half my age again.

Looks to me like I am going to have to find a good cheap source of a natural anti-inflammatory. Since that is apparently the operative thing going on here.

I've heard of "relief factor". Seems like that is the sort of thing that I'd be looking for. But at 86 dollars a month, it ain't gonna happen. On my income, that is the same as a tithe!


~~~


Welp, back to it!

This is GREAT!!! :D
 

chillman88

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But I have discovered that it gives me 'new life' as far as being able to work. I can move normally. I can do a lot of things normally, that I have been unable to do for years. It's like I am half my age again.

That's a great thing, and I'm sure I don't need to remind you, but take it easy anyway. Sometimes you end up paying double the next day!

I'm sure you've read it but use ONLY a genuine Motorcraft thermostat. You could use an actual International one but they're $120 for the same $30 part as the Motorcraft... Apparently people have had flow problems with the aftermarket brands.
 

Selahdoor

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Yup. what came out was a motorcraft. What went in was a motorcraft.

When I pulled the old one out, there was this metal ring with what seemed like bits of rubber on it, laying in the hole.

Looking at the new one, that black rubber stuff might be some kind of sacrificial anode? Because on the new one, it covers the entire circumference of the bottom part.

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I didn't use any sealant on the gasket. I hope that doesn't leak! I've got it far enough back together now, that I really don't want to have to re-do it. LOL

BTW, the coolant in the block was the same crystal clear color. So maybe this was a waste of time. Oh well, better to do and not need, than to need, and not be able to do.
 

Selahdoor

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That's a great thing, and I'm sure I don't need to remind you, but take it easy anyway. Sometimes you end up paying double the next day!
Found that out, as well. Yesterday, I was already at work at ten am. Earliest i have been able to get moving in the morning, in a few years!

Today, I slept in til 9:30. (I don't sleep that late! LOL) Just THAT TIRED! LOL Oh well, still feeling good. Still getting stuff done!
 

Selahdoor

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The truck is slightly more difficult to start, with the fast idle on the 'back' of the IP, disconnected. (Not the solenoid that pushes on the throttle. The one on the IP itself.)

But the engine smooths out, and runs really well, very quickly with it disconnected. Whereas, with it connected, I have problems with it taking off on it's own, etc.

So, this morning, I MAY put that connection on a simple toggle switch. Toggle it on, to start. Then immediately toggle it off.

Also have to replace the toggle for the fuel pump. I need a light on it, to remind me that it's on, when I turn the truck off. LOL

I MAY bypass the GP relay, completely. Put on the harness that Chillman sent me. And use a starter relay to power them, via a momentary on switch.

I MAY build the headlight harnesses.

And/or, I MAY Replace the headlight switch, and it's complete connector. (Wiring the new connector into the old harness.)

Or I may just get so tired, I have to take a nap. LOL

We'll see. :D


I'll be taking the alternator off again, this afternoon, and replacing just the brushes. That will be a final 'test' to see if I need to replace the regulator or not. I do still have to replace the slip rings, regardless. Does anyone know the part number for the slip rings for the g3 alternator?



Oh, also, I got the rearview mirror replaced a couple days ago. Hopefully that will stay on there, now, and not fall off again. LOL
 

Selahdoor

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Uhm..... do you mean timing advance? There is only one high idle....

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Could be! :D

Ok, there is a solenoid that pushes the throttle linkage with a little rod.

Then there is the electrical connection at the back of the IP.

Which is called what?

(I've found that the best way to learn, and remember, is to let the world see how little I know... LOL)
 
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