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my 1994 f-350 IDI Turbo diesel automatic will not start

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Garyw, Mar 29, 2021.

  1. Garyw

    Garyw Registered User

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    The starter gear that engages with the flywheel or what ever it is called in an e40d transmission but will not turn the engine over to start. I changed the fenderwell solenoid but it still just clicked. then I did notice when I got out of the truck the glowplug sensor near the turbo was clicking a few times then quit. I cannot jump the solenoid on the fender to start it and I cannot get it to a mechanic shop. Is there anyway to start the engine so I can take it to a shop? On a chevy I always jump started the solenoid on the starter is there another way to start this IDI? does the glow plugs have anything to do with it not starting? I know the glow plugs probably need replaced as well as the glow plug relay that have never been changed since I have owned it about 3 years ago. I read there is a relay in the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side but do not know where or which relay might be an issue. I can do some work myself but am not a diesel mechanic. Like I said it does click when starting from the on position so I assume it is engaging the starter but will not crank over the motor. I sure could use some help. Also if I need to change the glow plugs should I use only motor craft and should I replace the solenoid like relay near the turbo by the firewall as well? Could it be the starter itself? Should I pull the starter and have it tested?
     
  2. Farmer Rock

    Farmer Rock just a fella' without a 10mm socket

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    It would be wierd for the starter to just die out of nowhere. They usually will spin very slowly if bad unless it's the starter solenoid. It sounds like your glow plugs are cycling fine from what you describe, and either way the glow plugs should not affect it turning over at all. The first thing to do here is get your multimeter out if you have one, and start testing everything. Are you sure your batteries are fully charged? I have had my trucks read 12v, but they won't turn over unless they get at least 12.5v. They can be wierd that way. If you don't have a tester, check to see how bright your headlights are. It takes a lot of juice just to turn these motors over. If you are just getting a click when jumping the fender mount solenoid, then that points to either dead/bad batteries or a bad starter solenoid.



    Rock
     
  3. Garyw

    Garyw Registered User

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    Thanks for the answers. The batteries both tested at 12.35 v I am glad the Glow plugs would not cause it not to start I have read that if the glow plug sensor at the rear top of the motor clicked several times it was a problem. I had mostly gm products before and 12v will click the starter drive gear to connect to a flywheel and then it will spin the flywheel. I tried jumping the starter solenoid across the two large lugs and it just sparked. so did the original solenoid so I took the new one back because it was 35 dollars at Napa. Both of them made the same click in the start position after the glow plug signal went out.
     
  4. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Yes.
    That depend. If it's working ok, then I'd leave it. You may have to replace the glow plugs in order to tell if the solenoid/controller is working right.

    Yes. Like Farmer Rock said, the solenoid on the starter could have gone bad.

    This is definitely a good idea before just buying a starter. You can do a quick test yourself by using a pair of jumper cables. Hook the negative to the starter body. Hook the positive to the post where the battery cable attaches to the solenoid. Then use a screwdriver or something similar to jump form the big terminal to the smaller one on the solenoid. BE SURE TO HANG ONTO THE STARTER. They have a tendency to jump when you test them this way. If you can get a spark while jumping to the small solenoid but it doesn't try to turn over, you already know that something's bad in your starter.
     
  5. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    You are talking about two different yet related things here. The glow plugs do have to work to start your engine normally. They have nothing to do with the starter turning over though. Under normal operation, the glow plug controller will click "on" and then, after a few seconds, will do a rapid clicking on and off. If all you get when the engine's cold is a rapid clicking, then you have a problem. That may be bad glow plugs, or it could be the controller (or just the relay on the controller) itself.
     
  6. Randy Bush

    Randy Bush Full Access Member

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    Taking a diesel start to a parts store to test proves very little other then if it spins or not. They need to be load tested which very few parts stores can do. I have had them in the past where it was bench tested as good , but all it would do is click, put a new starter on and fired right up.
     
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  7. Farmer Rock

    Farmer Rock just a fella' without a 10mm socket

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    I have had similar experiences. Electrical can be real finicky and confusing. Batteries are the same way, they may read good, but that doesn't mean they actually are. I am just glad these trucks are conservative in the electrical department.



    Rock
     
  8. Garyw

    Garyw Registered User

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    I have a starter and alternator shop near here that sells new and rebuilds but I cannot get top bolt out of the starter because it is behind the solenoid and a crossmember is in front of the starter.
     
  9. Farmer Rock

    Farmer Rock just a fella' without a 10mm socket

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    . IIRC, I use a 3/8 ratchet with 2 long and 1 short extensions. The top bolt is a huge pain at first, but once you do it a few times you get the hang of it.



    Rock
     
  10. Randy Bush

    Randy Bush Full Access Member

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    Also I have gotten to it with a wrench going in over the frame behind the tire.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
     
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  11. Garyw

    Garyw Registered User

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    I knew Fords Have a solenoid on the inside Fender but this 1994 IDI Turbo f-350 but I saw one with a solenoid on the starter and on the fender. I still have not got the starter out because there is not enough room between the starter and the block. I was told by a starter expert not to take out the two bottom bolts before the top one because it would put the starter in a bind and would be hard to loosen the top bolt. I just read another post here today that said they took the bottom and side bolt about half out but the top bolt would have to drop first I could not even get the socket on the top bolt because the cross member was in the way. and the starter is a ball of grungy oil. I have a multi meter but do not know how to use it except to check voltage on my batteries. I am 70 years and losing what memory I have had in the past. I used to know how to jump a solenoid on a starter on a chevy but do not want to burn something up on the solenoid. Which posts on the solenoid on the fender do I jump with a screw driver to get it started and do I have to have someone turning the key on while I jump it or can I do it myself? The solenoid has two large posts and the one toward the front close to the battery has 3 red large cables and the other big post has a small red wire that goes into a harness and down the front of the motor probably to the solenoid on the starter. I tried to jump the two big posts but it just sparked.then there is a small black wire to the small post on top I did make a better ground from the metal base that grounds it to the fender and gave it a better ground. I wish I could jump it and get it to start so I can take it to a mechanic.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2021
  12. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    The best way is to put power from the hot cable that's closest to the battery to the small terminal. That would activate the solenoid. In order to start the engine, you would need to have the key in the "on" position. If you have replaced this solenoid and the starter's still not working, then jumping this solenoid won't do you any good.
     
  13. Garyw

    Garyw Registered User

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    Sorry I don't quite understand about the hot cable closest to the battery. I put the original solenoid which is a three terminal solenoid back on because the replacement from Napa did not make any difference. the original solenoid that is on the passenger inner fender, has two large terminals side x side and 1 small terminal at the top The closest large terminal closest to the battery has 3 heavy battery type cables on it and the large terminal next to the one with 3 cables has a smaller cable maybe 10 or 12 gage that goes down next to the engine and possibly to the 2nd solenoid that is on the starter itself, Seems like one of the heavier cables should also go to the starter? Seems funny three heavy cables(one is incomimg from batteries) go to the terminal closest to the battery?That is how they were connected and worked as long as I have had the truck. the top terminal is black wire that has an L shaped connector that maybe a 12 or14 gage cable that connects like a spark plug wire only smaller diameter cable. I think it goes to the starter solenoid on the starter itself. so do I jump a screwdriver from incoming terminal to top small terminal on the solenoid mounted on the fender and key in start position and can I do that by myself from under the hood?
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2021
  14. Farmer Rock

    Farmer Rock just a fella' without a 10mm socket

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    If you touch a screwdriver to both big terminals on that fender mount solenoid, and have the key on it should fire up. You can easily do that yourself



    Rock
     
  15. Garyw

    Garyw Registered User

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    Thanks I will try it today
     

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