Missing And Smoking

johnf250

Registered User
Joined
Mar 17, 2017
Posts
4
Reaction score
1
Location
Roanoke, VA
I have a 1985 6.9 l F250, I have had it since it was new. It only has about 155,000 miles on it and I have never had any problems with it except for head gaskets when it was new. I started adding fuel additive back when they started taking the sulfur out of diesel fuel. The last few years I started having problems with it running rough and missing some. Finally it would not start. Figuring the seals in the pump had gone bad I pulled the pump and replaced it with a re-manufactured pump. I marked the old pumps static timing marks position on the engine before taking it out. It was advanced a little. After replacing it and getting it started, it ran fine so I took it for a test drive.

While coasting it does not smoke. If you are on a flat no grade and just barely giving it fuel it starts puffing light blue smoke and misses and hesitates some. You press the accelerator and it clears up and runs fine. After driving it for a while it started smoking and missing when idling. I then replaced all the injectors with re-manufactured ones. Started engine and blue smoke cleared up. Took it for a test drive and it ran fine except for some times when barely pressing the accelerator it would puff blue smoke and hesitate some except this time it did it a lot less. If you give it fuel it clears up and runs fine. If you floor it and run it at maxed rpm it starts hesitating and missing. When you climb a steep grade it has all kinds of power and does not exhaust much black smoke like it did with the old pump. It has run good for the 2 days that I have been test driving it. Today while driving it started hesitating and missing and puffing blue smoke, it also does this while idling. Now it is missing and puffing blue smoke while idling and it won’t clear up while sitting parked revving the engine. What is wrong? I want to beat it with a sledge hammer it has got me so mad at it.
 

shawn deere

So many wrenches, so little time...
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Posts
445
Reaction score
82
Location
nebraska
I have a 1985 6.9 l F250, I have had it since it was new. It only has about 155,000 miles on it and I have never had any problems with it except for head gaskets when it was new. I started adding fuel additive back when they started taking the sulfur out of diesel fuel. The last few years I started having problems with it running rough and missing some. Finally it would not start. Figuring the seals in the pump had gone bad I pulled the pump and replaced it with a re-manufactured pump. I marked the old pumps static timing marks position on the engine before taking it out. It was advanced a little. After replacing it and getting it started, it ran fine so I took it for a test drive.

While coasting it does not smoke. If you are on a flat no grade and just barely giving it fuel it starts puffing light blue smoke and misses and hesitates some. You press the accelerator and it clears up and runs fine. After driving it for a while it started smoking and missing when idling. I then replaced all the injectors with re-manufactured ones. Started engine and blue smoke cleared up. Took it for a test drive and it ran fine except for some times when barely pressing the accelerator it would puff blue smoke and hesitate some except this time it did it a lot less. If you give it fuel it clears up and runs fine. If you floor it and run it at maxed rpm it starts hesitating and missing. When you climb a steep grade it has all kinds of power and does not exhaust much black smoke like it did with the old pump. It has run good for the 2 days that I have been test driving it. Today while driving it started hesitating and missing and puffing blue smoke, it also does this while idling. Now it is missing and puffing blue smoke while idling and it won’t clear up while sitting parked revving the engine. What is wrong? I want to beat it with a sledge hammer it has got me so mad at it.
Lol. Dont hit it with a hammer yet.
To me it sounds like the timing is retarded. I would advance the IP - losen the three nuts and rotate ip tward passenger side a dime width at a time.
The rebuilt ip timing will be a little off your old ip.
 

hesutton

The Anti-Anderson
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Posts
8,200
Reaction score
738
Location
Bowling Green, KY
Where did you get your rebuild IP and injectors from. Quality rebuild parts are hard to find. Smoking and missing.... timing, poor quality IP and or injectors come to mind.

Heath
 

pelky350

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Posts
1,546
Reaction score
382
Location
Springfield, OR
Marking where your old pump is and putting a reman pump in that same postition will not alighn the new pump correctly most likely timing is off and it sounds like it needs to be advanced some, advance it about the width of a dime and see how it does even just slight adjustments can make a big difference! My new pump sits way differently positioned than my old pump but they are timed the same. There is probably a thread on timing it by ear to keep you runnin good for now till you properly time it or have it timed
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
672
Location
West coast
Welcome to the forum. Please tell us who you purchased the rebuilt injection pump from.
Sadly you can't install ANY replacement pump and time it by the marks. Every pump replaced has a different internal timing. So those lines mean nothing to timing.Best I can suggest is move the pump towards the passenger side fender for advancing it but.. You can only make small moves. About the thicknes of a dime ( that is bout 60 to 70 thousands" equals about 2 to 3 degrees change. Now for real bad news. If you did not know to leave the gear cover housing on the engine block you made big mistake.. There be many deaths. When you remove the pump with the housing (because the 9/16 bolts are easy to reach) you have the gear still attached. Then trying to line up the gear marks is impossible. So it becomes way out of gear timing and wont run well. You really need to get the engine timed and not by ear.Many shops now time by ear and its NEVER right. Paying for some fool to listen to the engine and..charge for it is nothing short of robbery.
 

johnf250

Registered User
Joined
Mar 17, 2017
Posts
4
Reaction score
1
Location
Roanoke, VA
When I put the re-manufactured pump in I lined up the marks on the pump and engine. I got it started and it idled at close the recommended RPM. I then advanced the pump to the mark where the old pump was before I took it out. The truck started very easily and when I checked the idle RPM at idle it was at about 750 and when I test drove it seemed like it had more power than ever. Then the problems listed in my original post developed. I have since gone back out and re checked the timing. With the pump advanced about a dimes width. The timing is off about ¾ of an inch to the right of the 0 mark and line mounted to the engine while running at 2000 rpm using a ferret timing meter on the number 1 cylinder. I also set the timing at 8 degrees advanced. The engine was warmed up. The engine missed some and was emitting light blue smoke.

After these results, I retarded the timing restarted the engine. It was harder to start. I adjusted the idle to about 650 to 660 rpm. Then I revved the engine to 2000 rpm and checked the timing with the 8 degree advance set on the timing light. Engine running rough add lots of blue smoke. The timing mark is about maybe 1 degree to the right of the mark on the engine. It seems like it gets worse the less the timing is advanced. I am now at a loss on what to do.

I did get the re-manufactured pump and injectors from Advance Auto. I had to pay extra to get a Stanadyne pump. The good thing is I did not turn in the old pump and injectors.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
6,456
Reaction score
1,127
Location
Maine & Oklahoma
8 degrees BTDC is too retarded. The collective wisdom here recommends about 9.7 degrees BTDC.

There's a few of us oddballs here too.:D I prefer 7 BTDC.

I now read the thread lol.I think the OP's issue is the valves.Likely time to have the heads done and hopefully all will be well again.
 
Last edited:

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
672
Location
West coast
Sadly you probably have not so nice injectors and injection pump. Quality costs and what you purchased has issues because this forum has seen plenty of this less than stellar products from autoparts chain stores. Now did you remove the gear housing with the pump or not. This is a very important question the needs to be answered. Being that much off on timing is questionable.
 

bbjordan

Snow Monkey
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Posts
1,421
Reaction score
393
Location
Ashern Manitoba
It would be nice if you could get your reman'd injectors pop tested. If it's running really rough, you can try cracking the injectors one at a time to see if one (or more) cause it to run less worse, or no change.

FORDF250HDLT, as I recall, you haul heavy and have a turbo on your rigs. Both of those applications require less timing. Retarding the timing puts more heat into the exhaust, which increases turbo efficiency...up to a point. Increasing the turbo efficiency increases the boost which increases the overall thermal efficiency of the engine. Gotta luv turbos. :)
 

hesutton

The Anti-Anderson
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Posts
8,200
Reaction score
738
Location
Bowling Green, KY
I did get the re-manufactured pump and injectors from Advance Auto.
I fear this is your issue. Likely the reman'ed injectors are leaking, poor pattern, and/or low pop pressure....... or the reman'ed pump is already out of spec..... or both are causing problems.

If it ran well initially and is now progressively worsening and the IP won't hold it's timing...... I'd be trying to get my money back from Advanced Auto.

Heath
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,099
Reaction score
1,383
Location
Newberg,OR
Newbies, please read Faq's and hall of shame.
I just did 3 pumps for a guy who has some trucks and the pumps in question came from various parts stores. He tried 3 napa remans on one truck before finallycalling me.
My rebuild shop found that none of them had any advance piston work done. Seals , calibrate and sell. Sooooo....., im pretty certain you have a bad pump and crap injectors.
 

bjprk

Registered User
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Posts
16
Reaction score
1
Location
Los Angeles
This is probably a long shot, but I had similar problems with a known-good rebuilt pump and matched injectors. The truck ran ok at first and then started having lots of problems similar to yours. In desperation I pumped all the fuel out, ran it through a West Marine funnel filter (used by anyone who buys marine diesel in Mexico) added Stanadyne fuel conditioner and half a quart of ATF to a full tank - problem solved.

Even if this doesn't help at all at least it's cheap and you will have eliminated one variable without tearing the truck apart.

All the best,
Bob Johnson
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,261
Posts
1,129,436
Members
24,087
Latest member
FordLTDiesel

Members online

Top