Manual wouldnt go into gear

[steelheadguy]

So lately every now and again my truck would grind when shifting into 4th or reverse. Reverse became worse until I had to forcefully slam it into gear.

Today I hauled 4000lbs of sand in the bed for an hour drive through some mountain passes. When I arrived at the last turn to my destination I missed the turn because I was unable to downshift. When I went to reverse I really had to slam it, it was painful to listen to it grind. Then it wouldnt go into 1st, or any gear.

With the engine off it went into first. I started the truck and it moved forward very slowly even though I had the clutch pushed in. It was hard but I managed to shift for the next 5 miles to my destination.

That was this morning. Right now I am loading my water tank and the truck is operating normal and shifting fine.

This is my first manual and first real truck all together. I checked the slave and master real quick and they both look dry, the transmission is dripping wet. Is the slave leaking and I cant see it? Or something else?

Thanks for the help/friendly conversation

 

[MTKirk]

So lately every now and again my truck would grind when shifting into 4th or reverse. Reverse became worse until I had to forcefully slam it into gear.

Today I hauled 4000lbs of sand in the bed for an hour drive through some mountain passes. When I arrived at the last turn to my destination I missed the turn because I was unable to downshift. When I went to reverse I really had to slam it, it was painful to listen to it grind. Then it wouldnt go into 1st, or any gear.

With the engine off it went into first. I started the truck and it moved forward very slowly even though I had the clutch pushed in. It was hard but I managed to shift for the next 5 miles to my destination.

That was this morning. Right now I am loading my water tank and the truck is operating normal and shifting fine.

This is my first manual and first real truck all together. I checked the slave and master real quick and they both look dry, the transmission is dripping wet. Is the slave leaking and I cant see it? Or something else?

Thanks for the help/friendly conversation

Yep, you have a clutch linkage/master/slave type problem. Post up your year, tranny & engine type so we can help.

 

[73idi88f350]

probably the clutch pedal push rod bushing or the fire wall could be cracked depending on year. if its still feels like its got a pedal the slave and master are prob fine for the clutch

 

[79jasper]

And/or the firewall is cracked.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[riotwarrior]

Probably be good fill yer signature out with full truck details..year 2 4 wd std 5 sp 4 sp etc...really helps us help u

 

[steelheadguy]

Im going to do that now. Thanks for the suggestion. I have an 86 f350 6.9 4wd. Im not sure which tansmission. It is a 4 speed. I took a picture but this the best quality I can get.

http://i68.tinypic.com/33mqrsn.jpg

 

[crash-harris]

Im going to do that now. Thanks for the suggestion. I have an 86 f350 6.9 4wd. Im not sure which tansmission. It is a 4 speed. I took a picture but this the best quality I can get.

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Pic didn't work. Hit the "Go Advanced" button to upload pics (doesn't work via Quick Reply).

 

[jwalterus]

if you have an adjustable cheapo chinese clutch pushrod, it could be bent, looky under dash
check fluid level in the master, is it low?
is there any slop in the clutch pedal at the top? bushing/stud could be worn, and/or your pushrod could be ovaled out where it connects

I'd bet on leaking injector caps/return lines for why the trans is wet if the master and slave are dry, driving through the mountains it probably ran down the top of the bellhousing, wipe some on your hand and it probably stinks of diesel

hell, maybe your truck just needs a midol, mine has those days, especially when I make it do things it doesn't really want to.... and it's not the only member of my household like that!

 

[Waystro]

There is a guy that sell reinforcement brackets. Ford used to make them but I believe they are discontinued.

Yep and he's a member here also names @freebird

 

[MTKirk]

Another thing to look for is a worn clutch fork. Mine was grooved so badly (where it contacts the TO bearing) that it required the adjustable master cylinder pushrod to be fully extended. This put the linkage at a bad angle and caused lots of stress on the rod, bushing, and firewall.

It's relatively easy to replace. Just remove the slave cylinder (leave hydraulics attached and support the cylinder out of the way) with a zip tie or wire. Pull off the dust boot & the fork will come right out. The part number for the fork is ATP-ZA126.

 

[crash-harris]

Step 1 is make sure clutch is releasing fully. Is hydraulic could be worn pedal pin or cracked firewall. If mechanical could be worn pedal pin or bushings in linkage. If hydraulic have someone push the clutch and watch the clutch master on engine side of firewall, you'll see it flex. There is a guy that sell reinforcement brackets. Ford used to make them but I believe they are discontinued.

Do you have the link? I would post it, but my phone flushed all my links past weekend...

 

[steelheadguy]

Does the attached picture work for anyone? It shows when I click the link. Which transmission do I have?
Im off topic, but my signature is saved and I can preview it in settings. Why is it not showing.


The master cylinder is full.

 

[snicklas]

Do you have the link? I would post it, but my phone flushed all my links past weekend...

Here is the link to Jason's (freebird01) page:

http://www.terrapinmfg.com/ford firewall page.htm

 

[crash-harris]

Here is the link to Jason's (freebird01) page:

http://www.terrapinmfg.com/ford firewall page.htm

Thanks!

 

[riotwarrior]

A cracked clutch fork will flex as well creating grinding...

So start at pedal assembly

Inspect it for wear...get on your back with flashlight...look up clutch cross shaft cam wear out the lovely cast bracket and deflect so you dont get proper pedal actuation

Now inspect the small arm above throttle pedal the cross shaft is bolted too. Is the pin worn is there a plastic bushing in the clutch rod eye...this is a bad bad wear area...if ok move onto firewall

The firewall takes two folks....one pressing pedal one looking under hood at mc...watch for deflection...dont worry you will knkw if there is any. If ok...crawl umder truck with aforementioned flashlight.

CHOCK WHEELS SO TRUCK DOES NOT MOVE AND KILL YOU

Now have partner press clutch pedal...watch if slave presses arm and how far. Now peak in bellhousing at clutch fork with light...have parter work pedal...look for fork deflection due to wear or cracking.

There...now you should know why your setup isnt working correctly...

Good luck