Manual wouldnt go into gear

[steelheadguy]

hell, maybe your truck just needs a midol, mine has those days, especially when I make it do things it doesn't really want to.... and it's not the only member of my household like that!

Hopefully my truck is an easier fix than the significant other haha

 

[steelheadguy]

A cracked clutch fork will flex as well creating grinding...

So start at pedal assembly

Inspect it for wear...get on your back with flashlight...look up clutch cross shaft cam wear out the lovely cast bracket and deflect so you dont get proper pedal actuation

Now inspect the small arm above throttle pedal the cross shaft is bolted too. Is the pin worn is there a plastic bushing in the clutch rod eye...this is a bad bad wear area...if ok move onto firewall

The firewall takes two folks....one pressing pedal one looking under hood at mc...watch for deflection...dont worry you will knkw if there is any. If ok...crawl umder truck with aforementioned flashlight.

CHOCK WHEELS SO TRUCK DOES NOT MOVE AND KILL YOU

Now have partner press clutch pedal...watch if slave presses arm and how far. Now peak in bellhousing at clutch fork with light...have parter work pedal...look for fork deflection due to wear or cracking.

There...now you should know why your setup isnt working correctly...

Good luck

Thank you for this post. As soon as it stops raining I will start this check list. This is how I needed it put to me, as I am an inexperienced truck owner.
One question, how or where do I peak into the bellhousing for the clutch fork?

 

[steelheadguy]

http://i68.tinypic.com/33mqrsn.jpg

 

[zurhahn]

I had the same issue with mine when I got it. Got to looking and the firewall had separated, along with the master cylinder rod being bent. Welded the firewall back together, installed a new master, and she works like new

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[jwalterus]

I have an 86 f350 6.9 4wd. Im not sure which tansmission. It is a 4 speed.

just an FYI, a quickie look through the forums would reveal it's either a t-19 or a zf-5 behind the engine if it's a manual

I'll give you a hint, the designation of the ZF-5 tells you how many gears are in it

you really should fill in your sig

 

[towcat]

the trans in the pic is an iron case. t18 or t19 4spd.
your problem is in the hydraulic clutch system and/or a cracked firewall.
the 4spd trans, although missing a gear, lacks many issues the ZF has due to alu expansion issues.

 

[riotwarrior]

Thank you for this post. As soon as it stops raining I will start this check list. This is how I needed it put to me, as I am an inexperienced truck owner.
One question, how or where do I peak into the bellhousing for the clutch fork?

Slave cylinder is a cylindrical device on drivers side of tra smission on lower left side it is parrallel to the trans has a small rod protruding from it and the rod presses the clutch fork. That fork enters the bellhousing and there is likely a rubber boot similar to the one on the trans shifter. That boot pops out and you shoukd be able to see the fork going into throwout bearing.

While someone actuates clutch watch for linear movement...or defflection if it is cracked...

JM7.3CW

 

[steelheadguy]

I checked to see if the firewall was my problem. When my partner pressed down the clutch I do see the firewall flex, but only ever so slightly. Nothing looks cracked or seperated though.

 

[The Warden]

I checked to see if the firewall was my problem. When my partner pressed down the clutch I do see the firewall flex, but only ever so slightly. Nothing looks cracked or seperated though.

If it flexed at all, it's cracked. That may not be all of your issue, but it definitely needs to be addressed...I'd get the reinforcement plate and install it ASAP.

Beyond that, how's the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder? If yours is anything like mine, once you have the cap off, there's a diaphragm that you need to remove before you can check the level, but it may not be immediately obvious that the diaphragm is there...

 

[steelheadguy]

The master cylinder is full. Im buying the reinforcment plate but I am doubting this is the whole problem.

The truck shifts fine 80% of the time. I can crudely get it into any gear by revving and rpm matching.

In the morning I will check out under the dash and inside the fork boot

 

[madpogue]

Wow, no one's asked the obvious question - is it leaking brake fluid or gear oil?

Measurement check - get under the truck with a tape measure or ruler and have an assistant work the pedal. Measure the fork travel at the very tip end. Should be 1/2" to 9/16" minimum. If it's less, then the problem is "upstream" - hydraulics, pedal linkage in the cab, pedal box bushings, firewall flex/crack. If it's at least the minimum, then the problem is "downstream" - fork, throwout bearing, pressure plate fingers.

If it turns out to be the hydraulics, they're a b!+ch to bleed. The '92-later trucks have an option for a pre-bled pre-built kit, master-line-slave, bolts up in a few minutes. No reason why they couldn't make one for the slantnose / bricknose, they just don't. When the slave failed on my '85, I bought a '92-up pre-bled kit, made some minor mods to the bracket that holds it to the firewall, used my own bolts/nuts to mount it. It was no more work, and a LOT less frustration, than assembling/bleeding the components, and I know the master and slave are matched and both new.

 

[freebird01]

one way you can test if the firewall flex is your issue without buying my plate right away is take a WOODEN broom handle and cut it so the force of the firewall flex is transmitted to the rad support. this will at least help you eliminate one area without spending money.... now if you want it for the peace of mind i wont exactly tell you not to buy one...

 

[steelheadguy]

I was about a quart low on gear oil. After filling it up shifting is much easier, but it is not perfect yet. The shifting gets harder after driving for a while. The clutch and shifter mive much easier if I splash through a big puddle. Im looking at possible bent cylinder rods next.

 

[riotwarrior]

So whats scoop under dash...is all.good or what...start at pedal and go to bellhousing

Cleanest to dirtiest...thats how I suggested...10 min tops to check every single spot out from start to finish.

JM7.3CW

 

[Justin110851]

can you tell me who you purchased your firewall brace from I have the same issue with my 87 f350 and cant find anyone who sells them