Lil's motor is out, now where is it really leaking?

[Thewespaul]

It’s up to you, but I would leave it

 

[Shaker Breaker]

Well you’re only gonna have it leak with it rigged like that. Convert it over to -10 an fittings and braided line, and put a bulkhead fitting where the grommet goes into the valley pan.

YES ! Mine was leaking so bad from there also. This is the way to go

 

[Macrobb]

I built a small part that was basically a nipple with a tight-fitting plug that slides into the hole and a lip on top. Spread a bunch of Permatex 1-minute-gasket and press it in(so the whole thing is well sealed to the valley pan, the permatex acting like glue as well as sealant) and used silicone hose for the line. I did need a hose clamp on the bottom nipple, nothing on the top(just pressed into the nipple on the turbo drain). It worked surprisingly well - no leaks.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

I have had the top corners of the rear main seal plate leak, but only with a hot engine above 2000 rpm for 15 minutes. Running with the trans removed

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Since then I have devised a super simple and very effective system for oil leak detection. Using a shop air pressure regulator, pressurize the crankcase the crankcase to around 2 to 3 psi. It takes a few minutes to rig it up. The dipstick will blow out if you go to high, that is your safety valve. I’ve never created a problem doing this we use it on fleet trucks all the time. Soapy water applied to all gaskets and possible leak areas will show you.

 

[typ4]

do the oil cooler while its out. It will leak someday, usually right after you put the engine back in.

 

[stealth13777]

Man that engine looks clean! I thought you had cleaned it prior to taking the pics. I would say you found your leak with the turbo. Now it’s a “how far do you want to go” game. I played that game and lost, because I went too far and spent my way out of my idi. Learned a lot though and with different life circumstances, would still own one. One day..

At a minimum, do that oil pan. It’s easy and only costs time and rtv.

For the rest, now that you’ve pulled the motor next time will take half the time. I would say leave the rear main alone; it clearly isn’t leaking. They aren’t hard, and once you did it you would never hesitate again. But in this case, if it ain’t broke...

I rarely post anymore cause y’all make me miss my idi. But this is a great forum.

 

[Tristan]

Thanks guys!
The oil cooler was done about a year ago so it should be good for a while.
I am going to leave the rear main, reseal the oil pan, seal up the dip stick better, and put in the bulkhead and braided line for my turbo drain back. Throw some more Ford new gray on some stuff and call it good [emoji4]


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[IDIBRONCO]

I rarely post anymore cause y’all make me miss my idi.

You know that we want you to miss it enough to buy another one! (Damn enablers!)

 

[Tristan]

Well you’re only gonna have it leak with it rigged like that. Convert it over to -10 an fittings and braided line, and put a bulkhead fitting where the grommet goes into the valley pan.

Wes,
Would you clarify one point?
To put the bulkhead fitting in the CDR grommet hole, do you typically cut a hole in the bottom of the baffle on the valley pan so that you can tighten the bottom nut?

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[Thewespaul]

You can cut a hole, or you can carefully drill or cut around the spot welds to remove the whole baffle, install the bulkhead, and reattach the baffle. It has multiple layers and I prefer to just leave the lower one in place

 

[Tristan]

Thanks for verifying!


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[Tristan]

Update: The whole 10AN kit didn't work out so well for me.
I cut a hole in the back side of the valley pan and mounted the bulkhead fitting.

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After trying different lengths of the braided tube and ending up with the fittings end to end there just isn't enough clearance between the turbo and valley pan.

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I tried a 45 degree nipple in place of the top one too. The fittings are just too long.

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It was really close, but I just couldn't bolt up the bracket for the turbo.

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So I went to the hardware store and got a 1/2 NPT to barb fitting and hose clamped the top. Not as cool, but it should hold.

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So any one with the old school Banks setup be warned.


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[Thewespaul]

Man that stinks, forgot you had the older setup, but looks like your new setup will work well. The bulkhead still works fine right?

 

[Tristan]

No sweat Wes! Yeah still used the bulkhead and the 45 degree connector, just had to change the top one [emoji1303]


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