Lil's motor is out, now where is it really leaking?

[Tristan]

Well it was a long two days, but the engine is out!

You must be registered for see images

How does this rear main seal look?

You must be registered for see images

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tristan]

A little history. I have had a bad oil leak, but it only leaks when running. From prior inspection I thought it was coming from the back of the oil pan. Although looking at it with the engine out it appears thread sealant was not applied to the flywheel bolts. How much could that leak?
I guess I should just replace the rear main and seal up the oil pan too. For the rear main seal are Mahle or Fel-Pro any good? I want to find something local to get this back together.

 

[Macrobb]

I don't see any leaks at the rear there. That looks like the cleanest rear of an IDI I've ever seen - usually it's caked in oil sludge. The oil pan as well looks clean - it's not leaking there.

Flywheel bolts, as much as everyone wants to say they will leak horribly, it's only going to be a very tiny amount going down the threads. Plain and simple.

Could it be diesel/oil going down the valley pan?

 

[Hydro-idi]

When in doubt, change it out. You pulled the engine and went thru all that work to get it out, so why not change out the rear main seal & seal up the oil pan with new rtv.
I would go with an international brand rear main with Speedi sleeve. Next best would be Mahle imo.
Permatex makes a great thread sealant that you can use on the flywheel bolts as well.

 

[Thewespaul]

That rear main has been replaced, don’t think they came with national seals from factory

 

[Wildman7.3IDI]

Looks like someone already gooped up the pan gasket.. Check the oil cooler they are notorious for leaking.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Tristan]

Thanks guys, it could be coming down from the valley pan. It is tough to get the turbo drain in cleanly in the engine bay and I think it may have been leaking there. Now that it is out I can see that. So I will redo that as well.
Are National seals any good?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

I’ve never used them, I would fire the engine up and see where it’s leaking from

 

[Tristan]

Oil cooler is good.

You must be registered for see images

See what I mean about the turbo oil drain?

You must be registered for see images

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

Well you’re only gonna have it leak with it rigged like that. Convert it over to -10 an fittings and braided line, and put a bulkhead fitting where the grommet goes into the valley pan.

 

[Tristan]

Well you’re only gonna have it leak with it rigged like that. Convert it over to -10 an fittings and braided line, and put a bulkhead fitting where the grommet goes into the valley pan.

Sounds great [emoji1303]
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that setup would you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

I don’t have one on my phone, but vibrant makes a great quality kit, there’s much cheaper options but vibrant is my go to.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/371788875720

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/391316884186

 

[Tristan]

Thanks Wes!
So I will have to pull the valley pan to get the bulkhead fitting in, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

Yep that’s correct, it’s the only pita about the setup but it’s so worth it to have a leak and worry free oil drain. Pulling the turbo off constantly to fix it isn’t fun

 

[Tristan]

Very true!

So do you guys think I should just leave the rear main?
I think I will still reseal the oil pan, but I don't want to mess up the rear main if it isn't leaking. I have never done one before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk