KansasIDI’s 1986 Ford F250HD 7.3L IDI

KansasIDI

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This post makes me think of this pickup.....

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I know it’s a chebby, but to me it just screams get the f$@k out of the way I’m here to do work!!

Vs all these rubber banded wide rim pickups these days :tool
That is the kind of truck I am shooting for with this rig
 

KansasIDI

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Or maybe when you're using some force and A LOT of four letter words because someone used JB Weld to hold the transfer case to the back of the transmission?
So I wound up taking the tranny and t case out as one, if that makes sense. Got it apart out from under the truck
 

KansasIDI

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I ditched the FSV, and run the 38 gal rear tank to the engine and return back to it.

Keep your front 19 gal tank, connect an electric pump and use it as a transfer tank to the rear.

Edit:
I originally used a Facet 40223 I had mounted next to the Coolant bottle. It wasn`t hard wired in yet, was working on how to do it.
used a jumper wire to transfer fuel in the drive way one afternoon. Neglected it and think running it dry burned it out.

Last week i redid the set up. Now using a small cube Facet down on the Frame rail between front tank and Trans X member. use a piece on 1/8" flat stock 3" wide. 3" drop and 4" flat bend. Bolted it down with 1/4" bolts, and a piece of rubber convair belting for vibration, and 2 small pieces on the bottom side nuts. Picked up the pipe fittings at the Hyd shop, and cut the feed and supply hose down for the new pump.

This pump is getting the Hobbs switch and pressure switch wired in. When pump pressure drops, it shuts off.


Goat
So where does it dump into your rear tank?
 

IDIBRONCO

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So where does it dump into your rear tank?
The feed for the transfer tank? I just put mine into the top, metal part of the filler neck. I'm running off of the front tank and the Bronco tank is the transfer tank. For pictures, look at my thread called "Bronco tank install". It may or may not be the "right" way, but it shows how/what I did.
 

Old Goat

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Same here. I run the supply line from the front tank to an electric pump. then the return dumps into the side of the rear fill Tube.
I cut a hole in the side of the tube just large enough for the threads of a Barb fitting to grab the steel edge. Then JB Welded for a leak tight seal. Be sure to rough up the area around the hole for the JB to grab onto.

Few years back replaced the rear for a 38 gallon F26E Spectra. New Senders in both tanks and Shower heads. Replaced the FSV with one of the Chicom Ford copies off E-Bay. Worked ok few time I switched it, but used the rear mostly, then one day played with the switch, and got it stuck, but didn`t know what tank I was on. Pulled from the rear and returned to the front, till one day it was leaking fuel.

After fiddlin around with the FSV, taking it apart to see how it worked, and getting a couple at PNP. taking them apart etc... ditched the whole thing and decided to set it up with a transfer Pump.
I made an "L" Bracket out of a 1/8" X 3" flat stock. 3" drop with 4" for the Cube Facet pump to sit on, mounted on a piece of convare belting for vibration etc...
Just don`t have it wired up yet. Need some type pressure switch to cut it off when the tank is empty...... and 2 fuel gauges so I know how much is in ea tank, and......

That`s Chapter 2.


Goat
 

IDIBRONCO

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Worked ok few time I switched it, but used the rear mostly, then one day played with the switch, and got it stuck, but didn`t know what tank I was on. Pulled from the rear and returned to the front, till one day it was leaking fuel.
After having this happen to me with the Blue Truck, I've decided that I'm not even going to mess with them anymore. They're worth saving on a truck that's being scrapped out, but they're not worth much to me. In fact, the one that came off of the 88 F250 that I bought to scrap out a few years back, I just gave it to the guy who lives on the north side of my garage. I told him that since I didn't know if it worked, He could just have it. If I knew that it worked, I would have asked for maybe $10 just to get something out of it.
 

Old Goat

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Over on FTE is Number Dummy, he is a retired Ford Parts MGR.
He said these FSV were garbage/junk when they first came out, and were a good seller.

Goat
 

KansasIDI

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Front accessories and wiring harness and the engine will be ready to go in. Need to put the intake on, but that is easiest in the truck, and my 6.0 intake will probably show up before then so I think this is it
 

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KansasIDI

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Sure a purdy engine.
Iam sure you know this, be sure to install the Hard Line vibration clamps.


Goat
Definitely not a quality paint job, but it looks alright I think… certainly less greasy, kinda weird to work on it without getting filthy. Been getting complaints about how dirty my hands would get, so this should help with that… got a few more pairs of mechanics gloves when I had to change the belt on a 7.3 PSD… buddy pulled into the parts store parking lot in Manhattan and his belt blew up, and while we were working on it I took most the skin off the back of my left hand on that rough asphalt, so got some gloves to keep from getting it worse. Nice he broke down in the parts store parking lot at least. But anyway I been usin those gloves, help keep my hands clean, that and GoJo hand cleaner.

Oh and now the tranny blew on my buddy’s powerstroke, damn automatics cookoo

Forgot about the clamps, thanks for the reminder.
 

KansasIDI

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Well it is ready to get off the stand, get a flywheel and clutch, hooked to the transmission that I’m still waiting on, and get the turbo piping connected. Then put in the truck, get front accessories and injector line vibe clamps, which I appear to have lost? :frustrate Then hook up fuel lines

And then test runs, leak fixes and whatnot. I think things will get tweaked while putting the motor in, so gonna check for leaks in the truck.

Unless the transmission isn’t back for awhile, then will get tested before in the truck.
 

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Old Goat

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Definitely not a quality paint job, but it looks alright I think… certainly less greasy, kinda weird to work on it without getting filthy. Been getting complaints about how dirty my hands would get, so this should help with that… got a few more pairs of mechanics gloves when I had to change the belt on a 7.3 PSD… buddy pulled into the parts store parking lot in Manhattan and his belt blew up, and while we were working on it I took most the skin off the back of my left hand on that rough asphalt, so got some gloves to keep from getting it worse. Nice he broke down in the parts store parking lot at least. But anyway I been usin those gloves, help keep my hands clean, that and GoJo hand cleaner.

Oh and now the tranny blew on my buddy’s powerstroke, damn automatics cookoo

Forgot about the clamps, thanks for the reminder.


I wear gloves 99% of the time for most things I do.
Walmart has these 3 packs of black vinyl Palm and fingers, but back is a nit cloth. They really hold up, use them for everything. Some times I wear the lite blue mechanic gloves inside them to keep my hands clean and the vinyl one`s keep the blue one`s from getting ripped up. They are so thin, they get snagged on almost nothing. Think they are 5mil thick. HF use to sell them for around $7, now over $14...thanks Joe.

Hf also sells the vinyl dipped gloves for around $2.50 ea, and they are total garbage.


keep up the good work on the engine.


Goat

But sometimes there are times you can`t wear gloves, like the other day installing "O" Rings on the Injectors. Just had to dig in and get er done.
 

KansasIDI

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I wear gloves 99% of the time for most things I do. But sometimes there are times you can`t wear gloves, like the other day installing "O" Rings on the Injectors. Just had to dig in and get er done.
Yep, gloves can’t be worn for everything
 

KansasIDI

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Deleted my glow plug wiring harness today. Took me a while to figure out how to get the pins out of the harness plug, but once I did, the rest was very easy. Later I will delete the glow plug system from the truck side. Then, other than the glow plug light, there will be no trace that this truck ever had glow plugs.
 

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