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needlenose

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... I'm in IDI hell.

I attempted to install my new BB code injectors. The driver's side 4 went without a hitch. In about an hour I had installed all 4 plus the return lines and restarted the truck. I started with the pass side and immediately the #1 injector nozzle unscrewed itself and stuck. I made a weldement to attach to my slide hammer which screws onto the injector, removed the threads from the body, and in 3 whacks it popped free. My look of smug satisfaction was wiped from my face when I realized the @#%$#@! washer was still in the bore. At this time I have tried the following to remove it:

PB Blaster - Fail
Dental tool - Fail
Coat hanger - Fail
Flat screw driver - Fail
Long punch - Fail
Screw extractor - Fail

I was going to try to reinstall a "good" old injector to restart the engine and bring it back up to op temp in hopes that the heat would help loosen it. Unfortunately, there is so much carbon buildup in the bore I can't get the injector in. Removing the carbon is going to put so much &%$% down the chamber the cylinder will be 1 inch over in less than 5K miles.

So my truck is inoperable due to a $.02 washer.
 

ifrythings

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Could try using a torch down the injector hole to heat the washer up and use said tool to remove it, or take some jumper wires and a sacrificial screw driver and try to arc weld the wash to the end of the screw driver?

I have never tried either of those and not sure if they will work, when I had one get stuck, I just put a flat blade screw driver bigger then the center of the washer down there and gave it a tap and pulled out the washer, may have to rock the screwdriver to break it free.
 

1mouse3

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youd need something like this but I'm not for sure if a spark plug thread chaser big enough

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racer30

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If you need to scrape carbon out of the injector hole... put some small diameter hose into the hole that's hooked up to a vacuum to minimize the carbon into the precup. Even if you get some down into the precup it will blow out the exhaust valve without damaging the engine... there is a reamer for repairing the copper washer surface. I believe someone will chime in that's got one...
 

chris142

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How bout some super glue on the end of the old injector? Screw it down,wait 15 minutes and pull it out.
 

riotwarrior

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OK,

PULL GLOW plug on same cylinder, then somehow connect a vacuum to that hole and get it going, then, start carefully scrapping out carbon and so forth in injector bore.

Also it's risky...VERY VERY risky but a cold chisel and lightly work a cut in copper washer...till you can split it like to half circles and pull those two parts up

AGAIN IT"S VERY RISKY AND MAY DAMAGE SEAT ...if you go through copper and into seat

AGAIN THIS IS A DANGEROUS METHOD AND POSES RISK

do so at your own discretion

IT IS RISKY

JM2CW

BTW I'd run that risk myself without a doubt!
 

icanfixall

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The carbon built up on the bore is whats holding the copper washer down there. The screwdriver blade idea just larger that the hole thru the washer is how I have gotten mine out when they stick. Also you can do as suggested and plug the hole thru the head with a piece of hose but.. Make sure its long enough to stick outside the top of the head so you can easily pull it out. Then theres no issue with it falling in the crecup chamber. Use a screwdriver to clean off the carbon with slight hammer blows. The carbon is only about 1/8 inch thick at most. A small amount going into the cylinder is not a problem either. you could also fill the hole where the injecter tip goes thru the head with a heavy axle grease or simple lube grease too. Getting it out is not a big deal either. If it goes into the head so what. Its grease and will burn off. Injecter torque is 35 lbs and please... Use some anti sieze on the injecter threads. If thats the only problem injecter your doing well. Just do not leave that gasket in there.
 

junk

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I always use a large Philips head screwdriver to remove the washers. Put the tip of the screw driver in the washer hole. Use a hammer and smack to let the screw driver tips bite into the washer. Then give it a turn to break the washer free and out comes the washer. Atleast that's how it goes for me. Good luck getting that washer out.
 
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Hardy41

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When I had this problem I heated the carbon with a torch and scraped and repeated until I was able to get the washer out. I used a flat head screwdriver just larger enough to fit the washer and worked it until it come out. After I used a vacuum and suck out any carbon that fell into the precup. Probably didn't get it all but
 

needlenose

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Thanks for the suggestions! I don't know why I didn't think about the GP hole. I rigged up a 1/4" stainless tube to my shopvac and was using it to scrap the bore walls. It *seems* to suck up the carbon up as soon as it removes it. But for all I know it's just falling down the hole.

I think this is the majority of my problem. This is the TOP of another injector seal I pulled off one of the other injectors. The carbon has crept past the center of the washer and stacked up between the washer and the nozzle. Basically what I have now is a counter sunk washer. A nice smooth finish that starts at the tip hole edge and tapers away from it. So nothing that should cut into the washer and grab it will; it's grabbing the head instead. It's becoming a perfect conspiracy.

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OLDBULL8

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Here is how I do it for #1 cyl.
Take the little plate off the front of the IP tower, hand turn the engine over until the dowel pin is at 4:00 and the timing mark on the damper is at O. that brings the piston up to TDC, with a 5/16" X 5" lag screw, screw it into the washer, then jerk it out, if it strips, use a 3/8" lag screw. Then with a shop vac in the injector hole, blow spritze of air in the GP hole, suck, blow, suck, blow, guaranteed to remove all the carbon. When #1 is at TDC, the valves will be closed.

I'm in IDI hell.

Then you'll be in Heaven.
 
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needlenose

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OK, I just removed a bunch of the carbon with the vacuum tool and I can see clean bore all the way to the bottom. But I need to remove the fuel filter housing to get enough angle to get the inside 25% that's left. What't the procedure for purging the lines once I open them?
 

needlenose

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...The carbon is only about 1/8 inch thick at most...

Yep. I can't believe how much carbon is in there.

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I finally got it all cleaned and vacuumed out. I put a clean old injector in there and it's running now. I'm going to get it hot then try to remove the washer again. I can see the edge of the washer all the way around now. I just can't grab the little !@#%%$#. It's been soaking in PB Blaster overnight, so hopefully it will penetrate and let go. God help me if this happens to #7.
 

needlenose

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So I got all eight BB's installed Sunday night. I was right. All four were stuck; including #7 behind the turbo. The little shopvac attachment is an absolute gem. I can vacuum a bore out shiny clean in about 10 minutes. My system for removing the washers was:

1. Carefully scrape the walls of the bore with the vacuum attachment. Stop after each scrape to make sure it's still pulling a vacuum.
2. When it's all gone, stick the tube down the hole and let it stay there for a few seconds, or until I couldn't hear any little bits hitting the vacuum hose.
3. With the tube still in the hole, spray PB Blaster down the bore. It seems to melt the carbon and let it run down the bore into the vacuum.
4. Wipe it out.
5. A little shot of PB on the washer.
6. Remove the fuel shutoff from the pump and crank it 5-6 times.
7. Reinstall a clean old injector finger tight, then back it off just a smidge.
8. Hook it all back up and start the engine. Ran it for about 15 seconds and raced the engine a few times.
9. Unscrew the old injector and the washer was loose everytime. I simply picked it out with a pair of tweezers. No hammering, pounding, screwing, or cutting required.

I'm sure between the penetrant, the heat, and the extreme pressure in the chamber, the carbon holding the washer is no match. All my seats are shiny clean with no marks.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help! This forum has been immensely helpful with this truck.
 

riotwarrior

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So I got all eight BB's installed Sunday night. I was right. All four were stuck; including #7 behind the turbo. The little shopvac attachment is an absolute gem. I can vacuum a bore out shiny clean in about 10 minutes. My system for removing the washers was:

1. Carefully scrape the walls of the bore with the vacuum attachment. Stop after each scrape to make sure it's still pulling a vacuum.
2. When it's all gone, stick the tube down the hole and let it stay there for a few seconds, or until I couldn't hear any little bits hitting the vacuum hose.
3. With the tube still in the hole, spray PB Blaster down the bore. It seems to melt the carbon and let it run down the bore into the vacuum.
4. Wipe it out.
5. A little shot of PB on the washer.
6. Remove the fuel shutoff from the pump and crank it 5-6 times.
7. Reinstall a clean old injector finger tight, then back it off just a smidge.
8. Hook it all back up and start the engine. Ran it for about 15 seconds and raced the engine a few times.
9. Unscrew the old injector and the washer was loose everytime. I simply picked it out with a pair of tweezers. No hammering, pounding, screwing, or cutting required.

I'm sure between the penetrant, the heat, and the extreme pressure in the chamber, the carbon holding the washer is no match. All my seats are shiny clean with no marks.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help! This forum has been immensely helpful with this truck.

Sounds good to me!
 

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