Agree that these trucks can have several repairs come up in a short time. That a repair like a water Pump can end up in a new fan, new hoses, and perhaps a new PS hose from moving around in the front of the engine. You have to be patient and in it for the long haul.
Agree the big value is in the ease of repairs. These trucks are very capable but are tired so thus need semi-constant repairs. I am a fan of these trucks. I do not feel newer diesels like the 6.7 PS are unreliable. (6.0 PS, yes many issues making it less reliable than the 7.3.). Just very expensive to own and maintain.
Things to consider
1) Cost more than gassers. (If you keep for 100,000 miles probably make up the difference in fuel savings.)
2) Depreciation. Your new diesel truck will not be worth $70,000 three years later.(Arguably hold its value better than a gasser.)
3) Repairs will take longer and parts will cost more. I was at a Ford dealer visiting my cousin who is a service writer there. We go for a tour, a dually has the whole cab off, no damage to the cab. I ask what’s wrong. He said the truck developed an oil leak at 80,000 miles. That it was faster to gain access to the part by lifting off the cab than removing parts off the engine. I asked how much to repair, he said $6,000. I said is Ford going to help pay, he said no.
4) As greenie mentions, you will be limited to what you can fix (Or want to fix.) So you will pay to have some issues fixed for many reasons.
5) Let’s face the music The 7.3 IDI and PS set the bar for diesel performance and reliability. Proved diesel is the only way to go when towing. But the 6.0 and especially the 6.4 PS were an embarrassment within the diesel community. These engines often meant big repairs, bullet proofing (Should of called it Ford or IH proofing.), having to rebuild for 10k, or walking away from the truck. Ford lost a lot of diesel customers over blown engines under 250,000 miles, failed emmisions systems, and problematic injectors. While Dodge/Cummins and GM continued to have success in the diesel market. (Many Oil Burner members scooped up 6.0 and 6.4 PS‘s and rebuilt them. So maybe it was not all bad.)
6) Now the 6.7l PS seems to be solid and has Ford looking reliable again. So let’s hope in 12-15 years we can scoop these up as our IDI’s either have 500,000 miles and are worn out or parts become problematic to find forcing us to upgrade. That these 6.7l trucks, parts, and tools come down in price or inflation makes them look affordable. That the membership has some Ford techs to help us learn how to keep these modern day computer led trucks running for a fraction of buying the latest and greatest. Or forcing us to go electric if we want a néw tow vehicle.
Now to also keep this response informative, we have to discuss some other factors.
1) 2021 Ford diesels (If I read it right.) have a bumper to bumper 3yr/36,000 mile warranty. A 5yr/100,000 engine warranty. I am sure for +/-$2,000 you can get a extended warranty for most bumper to bumper stuff to 100,000mi. Most of us members can handle oil changes, tires, brakes, and fluid changes. But suggest having Ford do these under warranty, it makes participation in repairs outside of the warranty (Like the oil leak above or a tranny failure say at 65,000mi.) a much more likely outcome. So for 5 years your looking at only paying for brakes, regular service, oil changes, and fluid changes. Just don’t be surprised if your 60k service is something stupid like $900 plus say $900 more for a water pump they say is weeping. (Just a guess, no facts backing that up.) Or they want $1,000 to the front brakes including their low priced $350 ea low priced rotors.
2) You will likely for 10 years spend more time enjoying your hobbies, not wrenching on your new/newer truck all day Saturday.
3) Your truck will haul butt and pull harder. There is something to be said for being able to go 75mph when posted at say 2,000rpm.
4) If like me and you have a 4.10 rear end, benefit from say 15-18mpg vs the 12mph I get today. Yesterday I paid 4.73 at shell for Diesel. Getting say 30% further on a tank of gas would not suck at those prices. (Which historically come back down to sub $4.)
5) For 10 years pretty much have trouble free A to B vacations and travel. VS loading your truck with tools and parts expecting to have some 30 year old part finally give up the ghost.
Lastly if members buy a semi-decent IDI (Not a hacked up basket case.) on the cheap, you can afford to fix it up. Or search for a nice low milage one and pay a little more for it. (We have seen these on this site.) As Franklin points out, do the work yourself and save 50% or more. Do the common issue things and have a pretty reliable truck. (These are +/-30 years old.)
To me the big trick is not be $15,000 into a truck worth say $7,000. You can say well I will never sell it, so I am good being 2x what is worth. But we don’t really know what the future holds. (Work, needs, health, etc.) I have seen folks many times go deep into a vehicle to sell it 1-2 years later for a big loss, to buy something new/newer and more reliable.