IP supply line woes

Natehimself36

Registered User
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
42
Reaction score
16
Location
Oregon
Before i ask, i have searched. Ive googled and ive searched some more. What in the fork is the fitting / thread pitch of the line / 90* fitting on the outlet side of the filter head? I’m installing a aux filter behind the stock filter, using the stocker as a pre-filter to the new 2mic. Filter. I just need to know what the damn thing is. Ive got new olives and i can get any crazy off the wall fitting i need from some friends at a fitting shop. This thing is just giving me the run around. SO if someone could tell me what i need to go from the outlet of the filter head and from the filter side of the IP supply line, in would really appreciate it. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
If you are insisting on keeping the fitting that is on there, I can't answer that.

But if you are putting another filter in between the factory filter and the IP...

The threads in the filter housing, are a standard 1/4" npt size. You should be able to find a fitting that will work from that, to your new filter.

From there, since you are putting another filter after that, and before the IP, you are probably going to have to do something funky with the steel line that is currently there. Why not just cut it to the right length. Flare it. And use whatever fitting then connects that to your new filter...
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
I have them, on the right is the fitting to go to the back of the pump, it’s a very specific o ring thread that is not commonly used, this one is a straight to -6 jic. You can get a hydraulic line made with a female -6 jic elbow and crimped line, or use a female -6 jic elbow to -6 push lock hose like on the left side, but an elbow instead of a straight.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Natehimself36

Registered User
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
42
Reaction score
16
Location
Oregon
I have them, on the right is the fitting to go to the back of the pump, it’s a very specific o ring thread that is not commonly used, this one is a straight to -6 jic. You can get a hydraulic line made with a female -6 jic elbow and crimped line, or use a female -6 jic elbow to -6 push lock hose like on the left side, but an elbow instead of a straight.
You must be registered for see images attach

Right, isn’t it a 1/2 x 20 straight thread? I have that same fitting you show in the picture, i think i got one size too small though.. so the filter head is standard 1/4 pipe thread? I don’t care about the 90 that’s on there. I just need to put a hose barb on that and on the steel line OR on the back of the pump. I planned on just putting a barb on the filter head and then putting a barb on the steel line. Since its been such a pita i think i might just cut and re flare with a JIC fitting. I’m going to give this one last shot though. Ideally i would keep the stock steel line and just find a fitting like the one i have / the one in the photo. I’m just in need of the size. Maybe I’ll just bring my fitting into the shop tomorrow and tell them i need the next one up.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
Wes, That brass fitting... Does that fit on the IP?
 

Natehimself36

Registered User
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
42
Reaction score
16
Location
Oregon
Wes, That brass fitting... Does that fit on the IP?

That brass barb fits on the stainless fitting next to it, which fits the IP. That stainless fitting goes from the 1/2 x 20 straight thread ORB to standard pipe thread. I’m having a heck of a time finding the ORB fitting size though. Is it 5/16 1/2 x20 ORB Wes??
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
That brass barb fits on the stainless fitting next to it, which fits the IP. That stainless fitting goes from the 1/2 x 20 straight thread ORB to standard pipe thread. I’m having a heck of a time finding the ORB fitting size though. Is it 5/16 1/2 x20 ORB Wes??
Well if you are looking for barbed fittings... Put that brass one on the IP. Remove the steel line, put on the fitting. No other changes required.

Then buy a barbed fitting that is 1/4" npt to the correct size barb. Remove the elbow fitting from the filter head. Put in your barbed fitting. And there you go. Barbed fittings at the IP and the filter head.

By the way, how long have you been running WVO? (Your avatar.) Do you run straight WVO? Or a mixture? Any special setup on the truck, like a heater?
 

Natehimself36

Registered User
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
42
Reaction score
16
Location
Oregon
Well if you are looking for barbed fittings... Put that brass one on the IP. Remove the steel line, put on the fitting. No other changes required.

Then buy a barbed fitting that is 1/4" npt to the correct size barb. Remove the elbow fitting from the filter head. Put in your barbed fitting. And there you go. Barbed fittings at the IP and the filter head.

By the way, how long have you been running WVO? (Your avatar.) Do you run straight WVO? Or a mixture? Any special setup on the truck, like a heater?

I trying to get that stainless fitting in the photo.
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
I don’t remember off hand, I’ll be back at the shop in a bit and I’ll measure for ya
 

Natehimself36

Registered User
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
42
Reaction score
16
Location
Oregon
I don’t remember off hand, I’ll be back at the shop in a bit and I’ll measure for ya

Thank you very much!

Well if you are looking for barbed fittings... Put that brass one on the IP. Remove the steel line, put on the fitting. No other changes required.

Then buy a barbed fitting that is 1/4" npt to the correct size barb. Remove the elbow fitting from the filter head. Put in your barbed fitting. And there you go. Barbed fittings at the IP and the filter head.

By the way, how long have you been running WVO? (Your avatar.) Do you run straight WVO? Or a mixture? Any special setup on the truck, like a heater?

The filter base is standard pipe thread? i run wmo not veggie oil. I’m not an advocate for veggie oil but a lot of folks like it a lot. I stick to petroleum products though. I run Mostly a mix of 80% oil up to 20% reg. Gas or 90 oil 10 gas. If i have diesel or kerosene i thin it as much as i can with that and then fine t use it with the gasoline. I centrifuge the oil a lot before i run it on the truck so I’ve had really good luck with it. Some guys don’t centrifuge it at all but I wouldn’t recommend it. I get an astonishing amount of nasties out.
 

lotzagoodstuff

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 19, 2007
Posts
2,726
Reaction score
668
Location
Carmel, IN
If you are going to add another filter upstream, +1 on ditching the hard line/olives/etc and going with hydraulic JIC connections as they are easy to source and quite flexible whether you decide you want to go hard lines or fuel hose. Air intrusion on the fuel system is probably the biggest single stress on starting IDIs. I think the glow plug system is pretty simple and straightforward, but I think a lot of unnecessary cranking ends up happening as a result of air intrusion. Fuel leaks are generally easy to find as they make a mess you can see, but air intrusion can be very difficult to locate as you can't "see" it.

One other thing to consider: you sound like you know your way around WMO and you are measuring viscosity, but if you are going to add another filter you will introduce a little more pressure drop, and you could at least consider an electric lift pump to make the initial priming better. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the mechanical fuel pump, but the folks who've gone electric lift pump comment pretty consistently on better cold starts as they can pressurize the pre-injector pump circuit before cranking.

Good luck no matter the direction you go.
 

Natehimself36

Registered User
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
42
Reaction score
16
Location
Oregon
If you are going to add another filter upstream, +1 on ditching the hard line/olives/etc and going with hydraulic JIC connections as they are easy to source and quite flexible whether you decide you want to go hard lines or fuel hose. Air intrusion on the fuel system is probably the biggest single stress on starting IDIs. I think the glow plug system is pretty simple and straightforward, but I think a lot of unnecessary cranking ends up happening as a result of air intrusion. Fuel leaks are generally easy to find as they make a mess you can see, but air intrusion can be very difficult to locate as you can't "see" it.

One other thing to consider: you sound like you know your way around WMO and you are measuring viscosity, but if you are going to add another filter you will introduce a little more pressure drop, and you could at least consider an electric lift pump to make the initial priming better. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the mechanical fuel pump, but the folks who've gone electric lift pump comment pretty consistently on better cold starts as they can pressurize the pre-injector pump circuit before cranking.

Good luck no matter the direction you go.

Ive been looking at the duralift facet pumps. I think a lot of guys on here use em and I’ve seen good reviews. Is that a good pump? Ive only ever messed with electric pumps on old gassers and they’ve been holly / edlebrock . Ive heard the Holly’s hold up pretty good on our trucks but I’ve seen more good info on the duralifts. I am really considering either taking the factory steel line off the IP and re plumbing from there. I wanted to just throw some fittings on the stock line and filter head but I’m starting to think that keeping that steel line might be more trouble than what i want to deal with.
 

ifrythings

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2011
Posts
734
Reaction score
485
Location
BC
That brass barb fits on the stainless fitting next to it, which fits the IP. That stainless fitting goes from the 1/2 x 20 straight thread ORB to standard pipe thread. I’m having a heck of a time finding the ORB fitting size though. Is it 5/16 1/2 x20 ORB Wes??

The IP inlet is a orb #5, the silver fitting pictured above goes orb #5 to jic 6 and the brass hose barb is jic 6 (jic 6 and AN6 are the same)
 
Top