Interesting Situation with a 6.9 liter IDI, seeking advice

[DuRolf]

Hello
I bought a 1989 Ford E 350 Born Free RV last October with 55K on the odometer, my first diesel. I thought it had the 7.3 IDI engine, and the seller told me it was a rebuilt engine with just 20K on it.
A diesel mechanic who mainly works on Mercedes and VWs checked it out and said it sounded and drove great. I got it converted to 4WD with a 5" lift. It being gutless in the mountains here in Colorado I decided to get a Hypermax non wastegated turbo installed.
As the parts started to come off yesterday from behind the dog house I noticed the plate on the valve cover said it was a 1985 6.9 liter! This was interesting as the oil filter and its parts were from a 7.3.
The head bolts however were from a 6.9, so I think that is what was put into my rig when the original engine blew.
The engine was rebuilt by Jasper, and I called them with the ID number on their plate on the engine. All they could tell me is that the rebuild was done more than ten years ago, as after ten years they scrub their records.
The question I would like to pose is; how worried should I be about a lemon?

The good: The engine starts easily every time. It runs smoothly, and on the Eastern Colorado plains can keep the RV going 75mph with little problem. I see no unusual smoke, just black exhaust when I floor it. I ran B100 through it one trip and that cut the exhaust smoke hugely. It has a stink at first in the coach, but the exhaust manifolds were leaking and now it is better after a fix.

The bad: It is gutless in the mountains. (agreed, likely due to being an old naturally aspirated diesel). It has used three quarts of Rotella oil in just a few months and less than a 1000 miles. The rebuild tags that are designed to fall off if the engine is overheated appear to be missing.

I've got a big trip planned in August, 1000 miles one way across the Wyoming Utah and Nevada wilds hauling a trailer. The idea of a rebuilt 7.3 with low miles had me feeling confident. Now the realization that I have a 6.9 of unknown miles that is using oil fast has me worried.

Regards

Rolf
__________________
1989 Ford E 350 6.9 IDI Born Free President RV 4WD

 

[icanfixall]

A 6.9 is just as good as any 7.3. So don't be concerned about that. Who told you a sticker placed on the engine is designed to fall off if the engine is overheated... I have never heard of such a thing. A Jaspers rebuild is nothing to worry about in a 6.9 block. Your oil loss might be from a ring or valve seal problem. Possibliy a treatment of Auto RX in the oil will free up any maybe stuck rings. That stuff really works. Many here believe in it.

 

[justinray]

As for the oil, I have had horrible luck with Rotella being a 'self changing oil' if I use anything else, I only need a quart between oil changes, rotella I need a quart every 4-500. Anything else may just be it needs to be timed or a fuel system rebuild. The overheating tags are most likely a non issue, overheating isn't really something that happens and you worry about it 10 years later.

 

[SparkandFire]

Sounds like a cool setup you've got !

I would like to do a 4x4 conversion on my '97 camper van, someday...

It's quite possible that when the reman engine was ordered, either someone intentionally ordered a 6.9, or jasper might have sent one out. Can't really determine a 6.9 from a 7.3 by the valve covers. They are interchangeable, so really just the head bolts can be compared. The 7.3 has a much larger head bolt. Sure fire way to identify the engine is the head bolts, since everything else exterior to the engine is interchangeable.

As far as oil consumption, it could be the CDR valve is shot. My first IDI pickup chugged oil (about a quart every 500 miles) and a new CDR from the International dealer fixed it... If you have access to a compression tester, that could give you a good idea what's going on inside the engine. If it is in fact a 6.9 then you could have loose valve guides/seals causing the oil consumption....

Either way, don't give up on it or condemn it. The turbo will make a big difference up there in the mountains !

 

[GOOSE]

I would not be worried about the engine being a 6.9 vs a 7.3. A compression check will tell you what kind of shape the engine is in. I would do that if I was seeking certainty to the engine's condition. Try a different oil. Rotella has changed their chemistry and quite a few people have had problems with engines chewing it up. Delo seems to be a good go to oil. Some additative may help to cut down on the consumption as well. An aftermarket oil gauge will tell more of your engine's story as well, assuring that your oil pressure is on par.

Your 'good' column seems to be big plus, out weighing the 'bad column in my book. Go for the turbo, it's a necessity in the elevations you seek to travel.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Not to condem them, but a Jasper is the last reman I would buy, then only if I knew it was rebuilt by a local rebuilder that I knew. Jaspers are rebuilt all over the country, who knows who or where. Yes I've heard jasper puts put those thermo tags on for warranty purpose. But like said, if it's running good it's a keeper. Only way to check oil consumption if it's rings is a compression test, 360 PSI and above is good. Since it set for along time an Auto-RX treatment would be justified. To check the CDR it should only pass air in one direction, you have to puff on it hard to close the diaphram in one direction. Putting a turbo on it will give you more power that's for sure, but you certainly want to install an EGT and boost guages. Is the oil leaking, or burning it? If useing Rotella, you might want to change to Delo 400 and try that. I had a Born Free years ago, but it had 351C in it. Nice rig.

Edit: Most all RV's are gutless in the mountains, all are powered at the minimum, unless you have a big RV 40' then the diesel power now adays is great.

 

[gonecrazyi]

Need pictures

 

[GOOSE]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Wyreth]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

X3

As for the motor, flush it with Auto RX, do the ATF/diesel kleen in the filter then overnight trick, time it, install pyro, install turbo, enjoy.

 

[Keeway]

yeah lets see some pics!

 

[flareside_thun]

Another vote here for Rotella being your oil consumption problem. I ran Delo this time around with no usage issues whatsoever.

 

[Exekiel69]

If You install a turbo make sure You also have a pyrometer and boost gauge as mentioned above.
I don't remember reading what tranny is there, You may want to install a temp gauge and additional cooler in it before the trip. It makes a huge difference to have that much information and prevent something that otherwise would be noticed when it is almost too late.
Switch to Delo400 and drop the rotella.
You can also get rid of the CDR and make Yourself a RDT, that will leave the intake nice and clean of oil goo.
Enjoy.

 

[DuRolf]

Thank you for the rapid replies!
The Hypermax kit comes with an EGT and boost gauge both. I'll watch them both carefully.
This is an interesting unanimity about Rotella. I'll try switching to Delo.
I think a transmission cooler and gauge would be a good idea, especially with some of those long uphill grades on I 80 in the summer in Wyoming and Nevada.
Pix to come! I'll log on from my home computer and upload them.

 

[freebird01]

yep.drop that rotella like bad habit before doing anything else. my 88 7.3 with 124k would eat rotella like a fat kid eats cake.... i switched to delo and all my oil consumption went away.

 

[papastruck]

I run Rotella and notice it takes significantly longer for the truck to burn quart #2 than it does quart #1, i.e. I don't worry about getting the level back up to the "Full" mark. I've read posts from others who have experienced the same thing. I tried Delo once and seemed like it leaked more, but I can't be sure.

Re: the Jasper sticker, I had one on my Jasper C6. It was next to the Banks up-pipe and didn't last long. I put a gauge on my C6 and quickly realized I shouldn't have waited; towing temps hit 220-ish and took a long time to come back down. This cooler en route, with external bypass for cold temps.