installation of the 2nd generation banks turbo sidewinder kit (w/instructions & pics)

[FORDF250HDXLT]

ok,this should be in a devoted thread.not everyone wanting to install a banks kit will be interested in what i do to a big old ugly work truck lol or even know to look there for the info.so here it is for hopefully much easier search and find:

in this episode of log truck...............it's the installation of the 2nd generation banks turbo sidewinder kit........................

what is the banks turbocharger kit?
Trailer Life magazine:
Banks Power | Banks Sidewinder Turbo

and see pages 6-9 of this one:
http://assets.bankspower.com.s3.amazonaws.com/test_reports/Sidewinder_FordChev/index.html

and lastly,the owners manual with install instructions of which i'll be displaying pics of as i go along for anyone who may find these real view install pics handy someday:
http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals/405/96310-v3-web.pdf



this is the install of a used banks sidewinder w/ wastegate.the same type of used turbo kit i installed close to 2 years ago on my f250.some of the parts are missing.they are currently being shipped from banks.rather than wait (it's decent weather right now.with just above freezing temps finally.so i don't want to wast it) i will be skipping some steps temporarily,but rest assured the few missed steps won't be forgotten.they will eventually be posted (though perhaps out of order towards the end of the instructions) before it's over.

Installation Instructions​

1.Disconnect ground cables from both batteries.
Disconnect electrical connections from top of
injection pump.

&

2.Disconnect plastic air inlet duct from air cleaner
housing and remove air cleaner housing and
filter. Cover intake manifold opening to prevent any foreign
object from falling into the manifold.

3.Disconnect wire from oil pressure gauge sending
unit (located at the upper rear of engine),
and remove oil pressure sender unit and its connections
from the engine. On some models, the oil pressure
sender is mounted on the firewall (remove fittings,
hose and bracket, etc. if firewall mounted). Retain
sender for later installation. Install a 1⁄8” NPT brass pipe
plug in the hole at the rear of the engine where the
sender unit was removed. Use Teflon tape or sealant
on the threads.

additional note (7.3l) a 1/8 pipe plug was too small.i simply removed the factory long extension and used the bushing i had installed earlier for my auto meter gauge down into the block with the 1/8 npt plug screwed into this.the oem extension needs to be removed due to the heat shield you'll be installing latter.

4.Remove inspection cover plate from front of
engine forward of injection pump (on pre-1987
models, remove oil fill pipe from this location).

&

5.INJECTION PUMP ADJUSTMENT: To obtain
the maximum available performance from your
BANKS 6.9/7.3L Sidewinder diesel turbo system, and
to comply with emissions requirements, it is necessary
to make an adjustment to the fuel injection pump. The
pump adjustment increases the fuel delivery capacity
of the pump. These adjustments are made by turning
an internal screw, found within the pump. The pump
adjustment will provide a greater increase in rear
wheel horsepower, suitable for general use, work
trucks and towing. These adjustments are the ONLY
emissions legal settings.
• 49 states and California thru ’91: 90 ° or 1⁄4 turn clockwise.
• California only, ’92 and later models: 60° or 1⁄6 turn
clockwise
NOTE: Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) must NOT exceed
1050°F. If the EGT approaches this temperature under
heavy, uphill load, the fuel pump capacity adjustment
must be reduced.
Adjust injector pump delivery, as follows:
CAUTION: The engine must be cold before starting this
procedure.
NOTE: Do not allow any foreign material, including lint
from rags, to enter the injector pump during the adjustment
procedure. Lay removed parts on a clean newspaper
during the adjustment procedure.
A. Place a drip pan under the flywheel inspection cover
area at the rear of the engine, to catch spilled fuel.
Clean the small access cover area of the pump, located
on the left side, with diesel fuel or parts solvent.
B. Remove the cover plate, retained by two small
screws. Use care not to damage the rubber gasket; it will be reused during reassembly.
C. Rotate engine slowly by hand, in a clockwise direction,
using a breaker bar, short extension and suitable
socket on the harmonic balancer retaining bolt, to align
the injector drive pin, as viewed through the opening
for the oil fill pipe or inspection cover, in a straight up
(12 o’clock) position. Using a small mirror, check that
the Allen-head adjustment screw is visible within the
inspection hole on the pump. It may be necessary to
rotate the engine somewhat more to gain access to
the adjusting screw. See FIGURE 2.
CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft using the starter.
Even though the fuel solenoid is de-energized, the
engine can still start. This is extremely hazardous and
can result in both severe personal injury and major
mechanical damage.
D. Using a 5⁄32” Allen wrench, rotate the screw clockwise,
by the amount indicated for year model.
NOTE: Keep track of your adjustments! The Allen
screw turns fairly tightly and is self locking. Turning the
screw clockwise increases fuel delivery capacity.
E. Replace access cover on pump. Again, exercise care
to prevent foreign material from entering pump.

additional note; in short: turn the ip up a flat lol.

6.Remove the engine lifting lugs from the rear
corners of the intake manifold. Replace bolts
with four 3⁄8 – 16 x 21⁄2” hex bolts and 3⁄8 split lock washers.
Do not re-install lifting lugs.
NOTE: On automatic transmission models with C-6
three speed transmission, disconnect transmission
modulator tube from clip on transmission and temporarily
bend tube away from bellhousing area.

7.Remove the crankcase anti-depression valve
(the round sheet metal can that is attached to
the rear of the intake manifold). Remove standpipe
and grommet from valley cover where valve was
attached (standpipe may come out attached to antidepression
valve). Retain anti-depression valve and
bolts for later installation.
NOTE: On ’87 and later models, remove short length of
hose and clamp from anti-depression valve.

8.On models where fuel injector return hose passes
from one side of the engine to the other
behind the intake manifold inlet, re-route the hose in
front as shown in Figure 3. This removes the hose
from high heat areas.

9.Locate oil pressure gauge sender wire (disconnected
in step 3). Carefully pull approximately
one foot of this free from the wire loom jacket.
(step 9 is skipped.i ran a devoted line to a auto meter gauge.the oem sender will be left dead ended in the loom on my truck.)

keep her right here on channel 444 as log truck gets some more turbo install action tomorrow before the big game!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

.................................

welcome to the super bowl after show here on channel 444!

tonight on log truck,it's the continuation of the sidewinder kit prep as log truck looses it's skinny factory exhaust with a few more preparations for the turbo kit.


10.Carefully clean around the hole where the original
grommet was installed at the rear of the
valley cover and where the anti-depression valve was
mounted on intake manifold. Use acetone, lacquer thinner
or other non-oil based solvent. Install grommet in
valley cover as follows. Fill new grommet groove with
RTV silicone sealer provided. Press grommet through
opening in valley cover and smooth RTV around grommet.
Remove excess RTV. See Figure 6. temporarily skipped: Install rubber
o-ring in groove in manifold block-off plate. See
Figure 6. Install manifold block-off plate (and o-ring)
on intake manifold where anti-depression valve was
removed, using two 5⁄16” – 18 x 1” hex head bolts and
split lock washers. See Figure 6. Do not tighten bolts
at this time.

additional info; so im waiting for the gasket kit which will come with the few hard parts iv ordered.the cdr block off plate will need to wait so i can use a new o-ring on it,but i had ordered a spare grommet for the valley pan for the f250 (i didn't notice at the time it was part of the gasket kit) so i was able to go ahead with this step.though you can't really see,i did go ahead and punch 4-5 holes into the pan here to help the oil drain faster.
i do suspect this is where my oil drip might be coming from on the f250 as i felt around up there and see it's a bit oily.

11.Remove and discard the hose clamp from the
heater hose connection on the water pump.
Hose clamp may be loosened and cut with snips to
avoid disconnecting hose.
A. Thoroughly degrease the injector pump drive cover
flange (oil fill-pipe flange on pre-1987 models) using
acetone, lacquer thinner, or other non-oil based solvent.
Install the crankcase vent hose adapter and
original cover (or oil fill pipe) using two 5⁄16 – 18 x 2” hex
bolts and two 5⁄16 split lock washers. Use silicone sealer
at both joints.
B. Replace the hose clamp previously removed from
the heater hose with a No. 10 hose clamp. Keep the
tail of the hose clamp clear of the drive belt. See
Figure 7.

12.Remove exhaust head pipes and exhaust system,
including muffler and tailpipe.

additional note;
though this is a used kit without exhaust,i'll still be updating the whole system myself to 3.5" so she all has to go.

13.On automatic transmission models, remove
the transmission dipstick and then remove
the dipstick tube from the transmission. Retain all
these components for later installation. Cover the
dipstick tube opening with a paper towel or tape to
prevent contamination from entering the transmission.
Remove 1⁄8” NPT pipe plug for oil feed connection,
located on lower left side at rear of engine block,
above and to the rear of the oil filter. See Figure 8.
temporarily skipped: Install the shorter 1⁄8” NPT x – 4AN elbow fitting where
the pipe plug was removed. Use Teflon tape on the
threads. Aim elbow at approximately one o’clock position
when tightening.
A. Install and tighten one end of the braided stainless
steel oil feed hose to the elbow fitting. Cover the open
end of the hose with tape during installation.
B. Remove the top left hand transmission-to-engine
bolt (bell housing-to-engine bolt on manual transmission
models). See Figure 9.

additional note; one of the items i just had banks send with my parts list was the elbow.

hope you all ate lots of buffalo wings and had fun with friends and family at super bowl parties.keep it right here for more prep/install of the banks sidewinder here on channel 444 very soon!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

...................

thanks to the good folks out in Cali over at gale banks engineering,log truck is back on channel 444 tonight!


just like last time,a quick call up to banks with a few part numbers of any part i needed,no matter how big or small and even though i didn't buy a turbo kit from them,they happily and promptly took my order and sent the missing parts i needed right out so i could complete my install.

so now with the few missing parts and the gasket set,we'll start by performing the temporarily skipped items as noted above.


back to step 8.parts C & D.

C. On 1987 and later models, Mount the glow plug
relay to the glow plug relay bracket (provided) using
two 1⁄4” – 28 x 1” hex bolts, two 1⁄2” O.D. x 1⁄4” I.D. washers,
and two 1⁄4” – 28 nylock nuts. Clamp the relay
ground wire under one of the nuts. See Figure 4.
D. Install the turbine inlet casting support bracket and
glow plug relay bracket to intake manifold using two 3⁄8
– 16 x 3” hex bolts and two 3⁄8 split lock washers. Leave
bolts loose. See Figure 4. Route the relay wiring, if
equipped, as shown in Figure 5.

back to the second part of step 10.

Install rubber o-ring in groove in manifold block-off plate. See
Figure 6. Install manifold block-off plate (and o-ring)
on intake manifold where anti-depression valve was
removed, using two 5⁄16” – 18 x 1” hex head bolts and
split lock washers. See Figure 6. Do not tighten bolts
at this time.

back to the second part of step 13.

Remove 1⁄8” NPT pipe plug for oil feed connection,
located on lower left side at rear of engine block,
above and to the rear of the oil filter. See Figure 8.
Install the shorter 1⁄8” NPT x – 4AN elbow fitting where
the pipe plug was removed. Use Teflon tape on the
threads. Aim elbow at approximately one o’clock position
when tightening.
A. Install and tighten one end of the braided stainless
steel oil feed hose to the elbow fitting. Cover the open
end of the hose with tape during installation.

now moving on back in order;

14.Bend firewall lip back as far as possible, on right
side of transmission tunnel, for installation of
exhaust piping. Use adjustable wrench to grip lip as
deeply as possible and bend entire seam back parallel
with bell housing. A 3’ to 4’ piece of pipe or metal bar
may be used as a lever against the seam to flatten the
metal. NOTE: If access to a Sawsall or an air chisel is
available, a series of cuts in the firewall lip will ease the
bending operation. Some truck models incorporate an
additional floorpan heat shield behind the firewall lip.
It may be necessary to reshape this heat shield to provide
additional clearance during exhaust system installation.
See Figure 10.
A. On automatic transmission models, and 5 speed
models, saw the “ear” off the right side of the transmission
case in the bellhousing area. See Figure 11. A
Sawsall or coarse tooth hacksaw works well.
B. On automatic transmission models, install o-ring
on new dipstick tube. On C-6 transmission models, bolt
new dipstick tube to bellhousing with original bolt. On
E4OD transmission models, attach dipstick tube to rear
of right cylinder head using a 3⁄8 – 16 x 3⁄4” hex bolt, 3⁄8”
S.A.E. washer and 3⁄8” split lock washer. To align bolt
tab on new dipstick tube, carefully bend lower half of
dipstick tube.

&

15.If vehicle is equipped with a plastic acoustic
shield on the firewall, cut and remove a section
as shown in Figure 12.
A. On ’83 to ’92 models, remove the screws holding
the vacuum hose junction block, located on firewall
above engine, and lift block upward as far as possible
(do not disconnect any vacuum hoses). Temporarily
retain the junction block up, out of the way, by tying
with heavy string or other means.
B. Wrap the throttle cables and plug wire loom with a
3” x 16” aluminum foil heat blanket starting above the
driver’s side intake manifold bolts and working around
toward the forward end of the throttle cables. Secure
blanket with three cable ties. See Figure 13.
C. Install the glow plug wire loom heat shield between
the intake manifold block-off plate and the flat washers
on the bolts. Position the throttle cables and heat blanket
under the heat shield, then tighten the bolts.

stay tuned to log truck here on channel 444,as the main turbo kit pieces will be installed next!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

..........................

tonight on log truck...........the sidewinder installation continues with the most time consuming and difficult parts.
this is where a few knuckles get bloody and a few choice words can be heard from afar lol.if you've never installed a banks sidewinder,your missing out on how tight this kit is.it's almost insane how precise everything has to be to fit just right.these suckers are so snappy and increase power so much over n/a though it's so worth the effort.so onward we go.......



16.Install a 7⁄16 x 13⁄8” long stud in the side of the
turbo flange on the turbine inlet casting. Use
anti-sieze compound on the stud threads.
Install turbine inlet casting from under the vehicle by
guiding the turbo mounting flange up and along the
junction of the engine and the transmission adapter
plate. The casting will have to be rotated counterclockwise
as it is raised to a point where the support foot
(Figure 14) can be hooked over the top edge of the
bellhousing flange to rest on the engine-to-transmission
adapter plate. Guide the casting onto the exhaust
manifold studs. Install two 7⁄16 SAE washers with the
original nuts on the exhaust manifold studs.
Caution! Do not drop anything into the turbo mounting
flange opening. Any item dropped into the turbine inlet
casting will cause immediate turbocharger damage upon
startup.
A. Install four 3⁄8” diameter, 11⁄2” long studs in the turbo
mounting flange. Install a 1⁄2” diameter, 13⁄4” long stud in
the rear of the turbine inlet casting, behind the turbo
mounting flange. Use anti-sieze compound on the
threads.
B. Install the rear turbine inlet casting support brace
where the upper lefthand transmission bolt was
removed. On automatic transmission models, install
the brace with a 1⁄2 – 13 x 21⁄4 inch hex bolt through the
round hole (not the slot). Make sure the stud on the
rear of the turbine inlet casting is positioned in the slot
on the brace. Lightly snug the bolt.
On manual transmission models, install the brace
with a washer between the brace and the transmission.
Use a 1⁄2 inch SAE washer on 5-speed models, or
the 3⁄16 thick spacer washer for the 4-speed models. If
the vehicle uses a loop clamp at this location, first slip
the 1⁄2 inch bolt through the clamp before installing the
bracket.
C. Use a 1⁄2 – 20 collet stainless locknut and 1⁄2 inch
SAE washer on the stud at the top of the rear support
brace. Snug the nut and washer against the brace finger
tight. See Figure 16 for correct locknut installation.

very important.this foot on the turbo pedestal (up pipe) must be fully placed up on the engine block.too far back and down on the trans lip and you'll never fit the part.extremely important to note this position:

stay tuned right here on channel 444 as log truck gets it's turbo placed under the hood very,very soon now.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

.....................

it's the moment you've all been waiting for tonight on log truck (well ok,maybe just me lol) as the banks turbocharger finds it's new home under the hood!............

yeah,it's more of the hard stuff.fitting the turbo bolts on without dropping washers or nuts....fitting that monster dp (the wrap doesn't help) down into what seems to be an impossible fit.........and then the joy of bolting up the turbo drain with gasket.that's not exactly easy either.
be prepared for more choice words and bloody knuckles as you move forward with step 17.............


17.Important! Alignment of the turbocharger and
intake components is determined by the tightening
of the two lower nuts where the inlet casting
bolts to the exhaust manifold. The following outlines
the alignment procedure.
A. Install exhaust gas temperature pyrometer probe in
the 1⁄4 NPT boss near the turbo mounting flange. Use
anti sieze compound on the probe threads. If a pyrometer
probe was not supplied, install a 1⁄4” NPT hex pipe
plug.
B. Install the 5 inch diameter o-ring on the intake manifold
inlet flange (make sure surface is free of oil, dirt,
old gasket, etc.).
C. Temporarily set the turbocharger in place on the turbine
inlet casting and secure it with a couple of 3⁄8 – 24
stainless collet lock nuts, finger tight.
D. Set the pressure chamber casting in place on the
intake manifold. Make sure the pressure chamber
drops over the o-ring. Install the pressure chamber
with a 3⁄8 – 16 x 4” bolt, 3⁄8” AN washer, and 3⁄8” sealing
(o-ring) washer. Lightly snug the bolt so the pressure
chamber can be rotated slightly on the intake manifold.
E. Adjust the position of the turbocharger and pressure
chamber to provide the best side-to-side line up
of the turbo compressor hose joint while providing
clearance between the turbine heat shield and the firewall.
Additional firewall clearance may be obtained by
slightly bending the turbine heat shield at either side
of the slit in the shield. The turbine inlet casting can be
adjusted for position by tightening the two nuts at the
exhaust manifold studs. Start by alternately tightening
the nuts until they are evenly tight against the casting
flange. If the side-to-side alignment is off, the turbo
location may be adjusted by tightening one nut and
backing off the other. Tightening the outside (upper) nut
or loosening the inner (lower) nut will drop the turbo
compressor hose joint while moving it slightly toward
the driver’s side of the vehicle. Reversing the tightening
will reverse the movement of the turbocharger.
Optimum positioning should provide approximately 3⁄8”
gap between the turbo/pressure chamber hose joint
while maintaining firewall clearance and about 3⁄16”
gap between the pressure chamber and turbocharger.
Rotational alignment of the hose joint may be adjusted
by squeezing the compressor snap ring (use Snap-On
No. <acronym title="Page Ranking">PR</acronym>-569A snap ring pliers or equivalent) and rotating
the compressor housing. See Figure 17.
F. Once the best alignment of the turbo and pressure
chamber has been established, tighten the nut and bolt
to secure the rear brace to the turbine inlet casting
and the transmission. Make sure both nuts at exhaust
manifold are tight. See Figure 15.
G. Install the side support brace between the turbine
inlet casting and support bracket on the intake manifold.
The end of the brace with the greater bend goes
against the bracket. See Figure 15. Use a 7⁄16 – 20 x 11⁄4
long hex bolt, 7⁄16 – 20 nylock nut, 7⁄16 – 20 stainless collet
locknut and three 7⁄16” S.A.E. washers. See Figure 16 for
correct locknut installation. Tighten nuts and bolts at
side brace and intake manifold bracket.

optional step: this is a good time to install a turbo blanket in place of the heat shield.i used the same one i used on chip truck:
CXRacing #1078107002413 (GT28 GT25 Turbo Heat Shield Blanket Fiber Glass Black)
why? keep that heat in to reduce under hood temps and quicker spool (increased turbo whistle) .....no one likes turbo lag!

18.Remove the turbocharger and pressure chamber
from the engine. Cover the turbo flange
opening and intake manifold openings.

19.Install oil inlet block an o-ring on turbocharger,
using two 8mm x 30mm hex bolts (bolts are
gold colored for identification) and two pairs (4 total)
of ramp lock washers. See Figure 19 for proper installation
of ramp lock washers. Install a 1⁄8 NPT x – 4 AN
elbow fitting in the oil inlet block. Use Teflon tape on
the elbow threads. Aim the elbow as shown in Figure
18.
A. Run a bead of silicone sealant around the oil drain
tube about 1⁄4” up from the unflanged end. Insert the
drain tube into the grommet behind the intake manifold
while keeping the throttle cable(s) and wire loom
between the oil drain tube and intake manifold. Push
the drain tube about 1⁄2” into the grommet.
B. Install the turbocharger on the turbine inlet casting
using four 3⁄8 – 24 stainless collet locknuts and four 3⁄8
AN washers. No gasket is used between the turbo and
the casting. The upper nut on the driver’s side can be
more easily accessed by reaching between the turbo
compressor cover and the firewall on the driver’s side.
C. Bolt the oil drain tube against the flange on the bottom
of the turbocharger center bearing section. Use
a drain gasket, two 8mm x 20mm hex bolts (bolts are
gold for identification) and two pairs (4 total) of ramp
lock washers.
D. Place a 21⁄4” diameter hump hose and two No. 36
hose clamps onto the turbocharger compressor outlet
connection.
E. Set the pressure chamber onto the intake manifold
with 5” o-ring in place. Install the center bolt, AN
washer and sealing washer. Align the pressure chamber
and tighten the center bolt. Make sure the pressure
chamber contacts the intake manifold so no gap exists
at the junction. This assures that the o-ring is captured
and sealing.
F. Center the hump hose between the turbo and pressure
chamber, then tighten the two hose clamps.
NOTE: On C-6 automatic transmission models, check
that transmission kick-down rod does not bind or hang
up on anything in the vicinity of the turbocharger.
G. Bolt the anti-depression valve to the turbo compressor
inlet elbow using the original bolts. Hose nipple on
anti-depression valve must be oriented up. An optional
valve adapter is required on pre-’87 models.
H. Slide a 3” diameter by 17⁄8” long silicone hose and
two No. 52 clamps onto the compressor 11 inlet of the
turbocharger. Install the compressor inlet elbow into
the 3” silicone hose. Do not tighten hose clamps. Install
two 3⁄8” x 1 1⁄2” long studs in the two threaded holes on
the intake manifold, near the driver’s side of the injector
pump.
Install the air filter support bracket over the studs
using two 3⁄8 – 24 nylock nuts and two 3⁄8” AN washers.
Leave the nuts loose enough to adjust the position
of the bracket. NOTE: Make sure the latches are
in a raised position before tightening nuts or latches
will not clear pressure chamber.
A. Slide air filter into filter housing. The step on the
small end of the filter should extend about 1⁄8” through
the plastic housing to support and center the filter.
Push the filter all the way into the housing.
B. Position a No. 74 hose clamp over the neck of the air
filter. Place the rectangular projection on the bottom of
the filter housing through the corresponding opening
on the filter mounting bracket. Slide the filter/housing
assembly rearward in the bracket while guiding the
turbo inlet elbow into the air filter neck until it stops.
Now tighten the two No. 52 hose clamps at the turbo
and the intake elbow. Push the filter and filter housing
forward within the confines of the slot in the air filter
bracket, then latch the filter housing in place. Make
sure the front end of the filter projects 1⁄8” through the
filter housing. Now tighten the filter bracket bolts and
the No. 74 hose clamp at the filter neck.
NOTE: On air conditioned models, one refrigerant hose
passes over the air inlet elbow. To prevent this hose
from putting undue pressure on the air filter neck or
rubbing on the air inlet elbow, it can be lifted somewhat
by one of the following methods. If the hose does
not rub on the air inlet elbow, proceed to Step 20.

20.On models with a threaded hose connection
at the air conditioning compressor, carefully
loosen the nut on the hose connection just enough to
rotate the hose into a more desirable position providing
additional clearance. This can usually be accomplished
without the loss of any refrigerant. Tighten the
nut when complete. On models where the hose terminates
into a bent steel tube section and is bolted to the
compressor, carefully bend the steel tube section up
slightly to raise the hose. Slide the factory protective
sleeve on the hose to a position adjacent to the windshield
wiper motor, then tie the hose to the motor with
a cable tie wrap to pull the hose up and away from the
inlet elbow. See Figure 20,21.
On late model vehicles where engine intake air is
drawn through a plastic duct from over the grille, the
duct must be cut just where it begins the last bend,
see Figure 22. Some early model vehicles where duct
comes from below battery may require similar modifications
if inlet hose kinks.
A. Install the factory flexible air inlet hose between the
air filter housing and factory air inlet duct. Check that
brake line tube from master cylinder does not rub on
flex hose. Carefully bend tube if required. NOTE: On
late model vehicles where engine intake air is drawn
over the grille, trim the padding away from the underside
of the hood above the air inlet as shown in Figure
23. This prevents the padding from being sucked up
against the air intake and blocking air flow.

temporarily skipped: my auto meter sending unit is too long to fit.i'll need different fittings/bushings.
21.Install the factory oil pressure sender in the oil
inlet block on the turbocharger. Use teflon tape
on the threads. On early model vehicles which use the
large diameter pressure sender, install a 45° brass street
elbow between the turbo and the sender to clear the
turbo. When sender is installed, reconnect sender wire
from wire loom. Make sure wire is routed away from hot
turbo surfaces. See Figure 18.
A. Connect the turbo oil feed hose to the elbow on the
turbo center section.
B. On wastegated models, connect the 3⁄16” nipple on
the turbocharger compressor to the wastegate actuator
diaphragm (on turbine housing) using a 3⁄16 x 10” silicone
hose and two spring band clamps.


first part of 22 only.the dp install.this is where i left off.

22.Install the 7” x 24” heat blanket on turbo downpipe.
Form heat shield to the pipe to allow protection
for the firewall. Secure using wire ties provided.
Drop the turbocharger exhaust outlet pipe between the
rear of the engine and the firewall. Start by lowering
the pipe with the flared end pointing toward the passenger
side of the vehicle (away from the turbo), then
rotate the pipe clockwise as it is lowered. Install the
V-band clamp to couple the outlet pipe to the turbo.
Check that the outlet pipe is reasonably centered on
the outlet flange of the turbo as the clamp is tightened.
Leave the clamp just loose enough to allow the outlet
pipe to move slightly for exhaust system adjustment.
A. Remount the vacuum junction block (if removed) on
the firewall, relocating it upwards as required to provide
maximum clearance to the turbocharger and exhaust
outlet pipe. Drill new mounting holes to suit and reuse
original sheet metal screws.
NOTE: On C6 automatic transmission models, reconnect
transmission modulator hose and tube. Route hose
away from hot turbo and exhaust piping.
Install pyrometer (exhaust gas temperature) gauge and
any other optional instruments. Instructions for pyrometer
installation are supplied with the pyrometer instrument.
Route all wiring away from heat sources, moving
parts and sharp edges.
NOTE: If an optional turbo boost gauge (available from
Banks) is not to be installed, install a 1⁄8” NPT pipe plug in
the port on the passenger side of the pressure chamber
casting (plug is supplied with turbo system hardware).

phew!!!!
that's the last of the tough part.it's all downhill from here.bringing it to you live (almost lol) right here on channel 444!
stay tuned as log truck's turbo gets finished up and then it's onto the 3.5" exhaust system very soon! hope your enjoying the the log truck show!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

....................

tonight on log truck..............the banks turbocharger install draws closer to the finish line with the final touches only left,and a 3.5" monster exhaust system gets installed!


so continuing on where i left off.the second part of step #22.which is the install of the egt and boost gauges.
the used kit came with good gauges.pyro,lines and boost tube.all i had to do was supply the 2 gauge pod for an under the dash install.i had this on hand too as i took it out of chip truck when i added an oil temp gauge down there.
wire loomed and wire tied up the line and tube for a clean install.
iv got to run some power to the gauges for lights,but i can do that tomorrow.

23.Install the crankcase vent hose between the
antidepression valve and the crankcase vent
adapter on the front of the engine. Use two No. 16 hose
clamps.

24.From under the vehicle, install the exhaust
cross-over pipe assembly between the left
exhaust manifold and the turbocharger inlet casting.
Reuse original nuts on left manifold studs. Use two 7⁄16 –
20 stainless collet locknuts and two 7⁄16 SAE washers on
the turbo inlet casting studs.

25.Install Banks muffler and exhaust system working
back from turbocharger outlet pipe. See
Figure 24. Because of various vehicle/chassis combinations,
some installations will require an extension
pipe.
NOTE: The factory muffler and exhaust system is NOT
suitable for turbocharged engines. The Banks “standard”
and “monster” exhaust systems are specifically
designed for use with this turbocharger system.
The use of any other exhaust components may result
in significantly inferior performance and may cause
excessive exhaust gas temperature. The use of a Banks
exhaust system is required for the turbo system to be
emissions legal.

25.(i know another 25? misprint probably.step 26 we'll call it.)
Now that the complete exhaust system is
installed, go back to the turbine outlet pipe and
tighten clamp to approximately 25 to 30 inch pounds.


so i didn't use an exhaust kit from banks.i went with my own custom setup.same as i did with chip truck.are you getting the idea that i think i did a lot of things right with the f250,so i just keep coping almost everything? lmao.well i feel i did so here it is.

detailed exhaust part list.in order of flow:

banks down pipe.
banks intermediate pipe (just front section.) this connects the odd sized banks dp to a 3" pipe and bends down to be parallel with the trucks underside.came with kit this time! saved me some coin.nice bonus.
3" to 3.5" adapter - walker 41981
a stick of 3.5" pipe
"big truck muffler" - walker 21470
short section of 3.5" pipe (just enough to hook muffler to adapter below)
3.5 to 4" adapter - summit 652269
4" tail pipe - dynomax 54387
then some clamps and hangers of course.

this concludes the banks final steps of the 2nd generation (current latest production kit) banks sidewinder turbo!
so iv just got to hang and snug up the exhaust,hook up some power to light up my gauges,hook in my oil pressure sending unit and then it's onto the "final checks" of the instructions! (prime oil to turbo and fuel to ip etc.)

on the home stretch now! stay tuned to channel 444 as log truck is soon to get her whistle!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

........................

tonight on log truck.............log truck get's her whistle! she's officially turbocharged and running smooth as silk.




so i finished up the last of the big project with hanging the exhaust.

followed by removing the oil block so i could remove a long bushing and install a short bushing and then my auto meter oil pressure sending unit.

lastly was onto banks final instructions with:

FINAL CHECKS:
A. Check to be sure the injector return hose does not
rub on firewall lip or any other sharp edges. Reconnect
battery cables.
B. Disconnect oil feed line connection at the turbocharger.
Crank engine until oil flows from feed line and
crank another 5 to 10 seconds. Cranking time should
be limited to 20 to 30 seconds, followed by one minute
of cooling. This cycle should be repeated as required.
C. Reconnect wires to injection pump. Start engine.
It may not start immediately, due to fuel lost when
adjusting the injector pump. Observe the cranking recommendations
noted previously. It also may be necessary
to depress the accelerator pedal somewhat.
CAUTION: Visually check the installation for any
improperly installed components, improperly routed
wires and hoses too close to hot exhaust, turbo components,
or sharp edges.
D. Run engine at idle for a few minutes, to allow it to
warm. Check oil feed lines for leaks. Engine may idle
erratically or surge until air is fully purged from fuel
system.
Drive vehicle. Several short bursts of acceleration are
required to completely purge the fuel system of air.
The engine may run slightly rough until the purge is
complete, but will not in any way cause damage to the
engine.

once i had oil after two 15 second crank sessions with the FSS still disconnected,i hooked the supply line up to the turbo and cranked for another 20 seconds.
the batteries were getting tired after this since the truck has been sitting in the cold without running/charging.i put the battery charger on 10 amps.hooked up my FSS and went to lunch.
when i came back in 20-30 mins i attempted to start the truck.........3-4 seconds and she was just running.she starts like chip truck does.issue free with no bleeding bs of any lines and smelling like diesel even after draining the ip.
the pyro started working and i let her idle.she's not yet tagged or insured,so i can't drive it,but i goosed it a bit in the yard and she read an instant quick snap of 5 lbs........log truck is now turbocharged.


until the next project here on channel 444,i hope you enjoyed this episode of log truck.

 

[3Kp]

Very good write up! hopefully one of these days I will be able to purchase and install my own turbo.

 

[gandalf]

Very good write up. It deserves to be in the tech section. It also makes me want a turbo, even more than before.

 

[Sorro71]

Great read. I've got this task ahead of me soon. Those pictures and fitting tips are gold.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

off to tech for you!