In need of a 6.9 passenger side head

TahoeTom

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I think there is a different length stud needed for 7.3 heads. I think I read it here, but don't remember exactly.
 

OldIron82

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I found a set of 7.3 heads with a recent valve job. Can I get a confirmation on whether or not my 6.9 studs will work? If so I'm grabbing them this weekend. Thanks.
 

icanfixall

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they will not without the sleeves.

Why do you feel the sleeves are needed. From my view the washer covers the hole in the heads easily. As for the different lengths of bolts in the 6.9 heads.. Well I have no information on that other than a feeling here. Can anyone confirm the 6.9 heads DO have a couple of different length bolts in the heads...cookoo:angel:
 

IDIoit

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even tho i have never done this.
i honestly wouldnt attempt it without the sleeves.
i know that the head dowels locate the gasket, and the head, somewhat.
but i would not trust them to keep the head in place during normal operation.
IMO the head would walk on you, and create a head gasket failure.
 

icanfixall

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Well there we go. Thanks for the straight dope on this. Nothing worse than spreading bad info. I did not know about the shorter bolt requirements on the 6.9 heads but now I do. Sadly I can't retain everything so I have to remove some memory to make room for this new stuff.. Sucks getting older.
 

OldIron82

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Well good news. Made it to my local awesome salvage yard and I was treated to a pallet (yes, a pallet) of 6.9 heads. Sifting through them I came across two sets. One was labeled 87 6.9 and I noticed the rocker arm keepers (excuse me I don't know the actual term) were much more of a 90° than the ones I have from the first gen 83. The other set did not have a year written on the tag, but has the number "85" cast into the driver side head on the exhaust side between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Also worth mentioning, on the intake side of both head sets the bottom is a smooth straight cast vs my early 83 6.9 heads that have ripples defining each port. Tomorrow I will be returning with the tool to remove valve springs and check the valve guide play in both sets to help narrow down my decision. If I am not mistaken, do not the 7.3 heads have steel rocker arm keepers? Are the best year 87 6.9 aluminium keepers a better brand of lousy than earlier ones that look more bow legged out? Does any of this matter one way or another? I'll get pictures up asap.

I took a small scratch pad along and shined up the pre chambers and that small space between the valves and I can find NO cracks anywhere. I believe I understand why the guy said he got over 12lbs boost with no load. That pump is probably balls to the wall maxed out sounding like a proton pack. I know cracks in pre chambers are permissable as long as they don't breech the fire ring but for all of my pre chambers to be cracked and 5 out of 8 cylinders cracked between valves, something funky had to have went down. Possibly multiple times. Not watching the pyro? Pushing it too hard too quickly when cold? At least the pistons are in real nice shape. Again, I'll get pics up asap.

OI82
 

OldIron82

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The more bowed out retainers on the "85" head

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OldIron82

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The more square retainers...

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Hydro-idi

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I am thinking ether was used a few too many times. These engines will handle 12 psi boost no problem. Cracking in between valves is more or less related to engine overheating. However, one of my cylinder heads was cracked due to a stuck open injector that dumped excessive amounts of fuel into cylinder. Valves & head surface on that cylinder looked like a freshly blued shotgun....meaning it got hot!
I would definitely take those JY heads into a reputable machine shop for a proper rebuild.
 
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