idi tech article update request: E40D FIPL (TPS) Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

FORDF250HDXLT

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outdated tech article found here:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4134

setting to the values found here in this updated version will yield MUCH improvement than the values in the old article.so much so,you'll think you swapped in a fresh trans.;)



A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)
Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C




........
end of article.
couple more things that are not included here that you need to know:
engine should be warmed up first (or i guess as long as the fast idle isn't set is all) and normal warm idle must be set to 650-700 RPM.
T-15 is the size for the small bolts.T27 for the large mounting bracket bolts.
oh,as far as test #2 there.the reason why the voltage is blank (??) is because there is non there,being that it's the ground wire of course.if you suspect a faulty ground,then you would check it for resistance i should think.
when asking for the part at an auto store,don't ask for a FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) you'll just get the deer in the headlight stare.
tell them you need a TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and their computers will find the correct part for you.

more info;
don't be concerned with the color of the FIPL/TPS you find in the stores today.if your sold one that has black plastic,this does not mean it meets the specs of the failure prone ones of yesteryear.
 
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icanfixall

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I knew all that...;p Actually thats a well written informational read. I think my TPS is set at 1.23 volts. Something I need to check tomorrow. I know I have the grey TPS and a spare under the rear seat...:D:angel:
 

babyblueford

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First time posting and not sure if this is where it should go, but no matter how i seem to fiddle with it i cant seem to get it to read below 1.58
right now its at 1.58 on the low end and 4.12 on the high. Needless to say its not runnin the best.
Any help is greatly appreciated
 

HS108

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Have you tried getting a new FIPL, also you may have to move the bracket it mounts too, if overtime it has come loose and moved.

Once you get the bracket in place close where you afre in range, you can fine tune the FIPL with the mounting bolts. Hope this makes sense.
 

Tim McKay

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This is on a 1993 IDI.
Was getting the flashing “OD” light on the shifter. Pulled error codes and got a “23” which means “Throttle position sensor out of range”. So I bought a new FIPL. Installing it I only get a range of 1.2v - 3.9v. I ran out of adjustment to get it to 4.5v.
The truck definitely runs better. Since deleting the codes and running the new FIPL, no new incidents of the flashing “OD”.
Should I get a new sensor? Does it matter, or is being within the range good enough. What effect would Getting to only 3.9v have?
 

Tim McKay

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BTTT

Am I good, or is this new FIPL bad?
The parts store doesn't take returns on electronic parts already installed, and I would rather not spend $45 to hope the new one works.
To clarify, I adjusted through the entire range and never got 4.5v
 
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