IDI Serpentine Belt

snicklas

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We have all read the posts on here about the "Serpentine Belt I got was too short". Many of us have run into this, including me this past week. We have all seen that it's too short, but I think I know WHY it's too short (and no, not because it's not long enough) for you jokesters out there.......

A bit of the back story of how I came to this conclusion..... Last Thursday, the Oldest Boy and I (it's his truck) were headed to the local Pull-A-Part for some parts for a vehicle I have been working on for an acquaintance, and a couple cosmetic things for my 07 P71. The previous Sunday, we noticed the pulley on the A/C was starting to squeak, so we have been keeping an eye/ear on it. So Thursday, we headed to the local fuel stop and were topping off the tank, I came out of the store, I noticed blue smoke coming out from under the truck, and little black "worms" were falling out of the bottom of the truck. I had him shut it off, we popped the hood, and saw the belt was starting to get torn up, the A/C Pulley smoking, and while we were standing there, we watched the belt melt/burn in two because of the heat from the pulley.

I pulled the belt out with a set of pliers, and told him, lets get ready and get as close to home as we can. We fired it up, and he drove and I watched the temp gauge. Just as we entered out neighborhood, the temp started to climb, so I told him to turn the corner, shut it off and let it coast as far as it would go. Fortunately, we were able to get it off the main road (US-40) and on one of the neighborhood streets. So we walked the rest of the way home, I grabbed the IH Cub Cadet with the snow blade on it and we headed back to the truck. I pushed the truck home with the tractor, and we parked it in the drive, switched all the tools into my P71 and headed out. We picked up the needed parts for the truck while we were out.

One we got home, he had to go to work, so he left, and I headed out to fix the truck. I had the A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley (Thank You @towcat for that tip in the past) and the replacement belt for the "Non-ambulance/non Leese-Nevil alternator from the local Autozone. I pulled the A/C Compressor loose an moved it to the side, and installed the bypass pulley in it's place, got everything lined up and started to fish the belt into place around the 47 pulleys the IDI seems to have. Finally got the new belt to lay on all the pulleys, grabbed the breaker bar and 15mm socket...... D@MN IT, I can't get this belt over the tensioner pulley. I try several different ways, move the bar, etc and not having any luck. So I have the thought, the vacuum pulley is smooth, and I can get to it easier, so I will put it on the idle, and slip it under the vacuum pump pulley. I try this a couple of times and still no luck. At this point, my hands, arms and fingers are getting tired, so I decide I want to take a short break, so I put the belt over the TOP of the vacuum pulley and relax everything so I can give my hands and fingers a rest. What I notice is, when I relax, and the belt is on all the other pulleys correctly, but over the top of the vacuum pump, the tensioner drops right where it should in the range........

After this sinks in for a second.... I have an AH-Ha! moment...... That's why the belt is too short. Whomever spec'ed out the length of the belt, didn't pay attention to the pulleys and didn't take in account the vacuum pump pulley is smooth, which means it should be on the back side of the belt. If the vacuum pump pulley were grooved to run on the front of the belt it would be the exact right length.

That being said, I was able to get the numbers off of the belt that failed, which was the correct length, ran under the vacuum pump, and allowed the tensioner to be in the correct spot.

The numbers were for a Dayco Belt, with the part number for the "Ambulance Package" IDI's. Looking at the specs for this belt, it is ~113 inches in length. The "non-ambulance" belt from Autozone is ~110.5 inches long. Looking at the difference, and "how much belt I need" for it to fit properly, I need 2-2.5 inches.......

The vacuum pump needs to be replaced, so at this point, I have the belt running across the top of the vacuum pump (which works just fine, even if it's not "right") until the replacement comes in, and I get the ambulance package belt. I will report back with the results, but I think everything will land right where it needs to.

So, sorry for the long post, but know I think I understand WHY the belt was spec'ed too short......

Oh, and for ~$40, I recommend anyone with a serpentine truck, keep one of the bypass pulleys behind the seat..... you may be hot in the cab, but you are still moving......
 

Clb

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Fwiw
I just did a tensioner swap (thanks Bri) and found the closed spring with the shock has a wheel 1/4" larger in dia.
 

tbrumm

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I always remove the two outer alternator bolts but leave the single inner bolt in place but loosened. Then I thread the belt around all the other pulleys and compress the tensioner pulley. While compressing the tensioner pulley, I then pivot the alternator out toward the radiator and thread the belt over its pulley. I then pivot the the alternator back into position on its bracket and get one of the removed bolts started. Then I put the other alternator bolt in and tighten the three bolts down. The belt tension is correct and puts the tensioner right where it should be. I got this procedure from Dieselmann's IDI page, and it works even though an extra set of hands can be helpful when installing the belt. I currently run a Gatorback 4061110 belt (110" long). I think the tensioner you have does make a difference as to belt length. I am currently running the tensioner with the shock absorber on it.

By the way, if your son needs an extra belt to throw behind the seat, I think I have a 113" Gatorback that is in good shape that I was just going to throw away. It was on my truck when I had the aftermarket AC, which mounted the AC compressor in a different location than factory and required the longer belt. If he wants the belt for a spare, he can have it for free if he pays the shipping. I could probably ship it in a padded envelope for reduced cost.
 
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snicklas

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tbrumm,

Thanks for the offer, but we do have a spare, old belt already. If someone else needs it, I would rather it go to them. The other belt is a NAPA belt, and is 113" also. This truck does have the open spring, no shock tensioner. I have a big order going in to rock auto, and the vacuum pump and belt are part of that order.
 

FarmerFrank

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I found the same thing after I stripped the tensioner bolt. I was pulling on it so hard to get the belt on that it pulled the threads out. Bought the 113" ambulance belt and the truck threw it off too.

I like a serpentine system but my idi's will remain V belts after that venture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

icanfixall

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Towcat posted about the correct belt about 12 years ago. I recall the correct length is no longer made so we improvise now. Additionally there was something about different size alternator pulleys. It was too long ago for my memory to recall exact facts. I have been running the shock absorber tensioner for 11 years and the same serpentine belt. I check that belt at least twice a week for condition but nothing appears like its going to destroy itself.Behind my rear seat is 2 spare belts. One shock absorber tensioner. One idler pulley and one vacuum pump pulley. Calvin told me if the tensioner is bounching then your vacuum pulley is out of shape. Seems they have issues but so far mine is steady and runs straight... BTW Travis noticed my belt was on TOP of my vacuum pump pulley at the 2009 rally. He asked if my vacuum was ok. Then pointed out I installed my belt incorrectly. I even had a belt diagram from Calvin but still installed it wrong. We looked at other serpentine belt rigs to insure I was wrong and it was not beer talking. Everyone enjoys beer at the raLLYS....
 

snicklas

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Gary,

I remembered that story, which is why I am not too worried about the belt on top of the vacuum pump pulley. There isn't much resistance from the vp, unlike the alternator or power steering pump. If the vp has enough resistance the pump won't run with the belt on top, it needs replaced. Ours needs replaced because it is lazy...... takes way to long to build or recover vacuum. I will try the longer belt and post back on here.
 

tbrumm

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tbrumm,

Thanks for the offer, but we do have a spare, old belt already. If someone else needs it, I would rather it go to them. The other belt is a NAPA belt, and is 113" also. This truck does have the open spring, no shock tensioner. I have a big order going in to rock auto, and the vacuum pump and belt are part of that order.

Sounds like you will be in good shape then. I will post the belt up in the virtual boneyard and see if anybody needs it -hate to just throw it away.
 

reklund

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While we're talking belts and tensioners:

I picked up a shock absorber tensioner for my truck, but it looks like it won't work on my bracket. I can drill the holes along the AC compressor no problem, but it looks like it will not bolt onto the bracket (open spring old style tensioner) due to a protrusion on the cast aluminum bracket. Do I need a new bracket or can I modify that old one to work?
 

icanfixall

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I recall Calvin mentioned only the aluminum bracket for the shock absorber tensioner will work. Lucky for us Ford sells them still and they are not expensive. I sold my spare bracket a few years ago too. I had it for maybe 8 years but never needed it.
 

towcat

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if you want to get away from the open spring tensioner, you will need to get a updated bracket for the closed spring tensioner.
 

Clb

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Not sure IF you can mod it or not.
I got a bracket from a member .. Bolts right On.
Sorry mine is buttoned up so I cannot tell.
I do bring the suck that ford could not just update the tentioner but rather changed the whole en chee lada.
Azzbights.
 

Macrobb

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Oh, and for ~$40, I recommend anyone with a serpentine truck, keep one of the bypass pulleys behind the seat..... you may be hot in the cab, but you are still moving......
This is why the V-belt system is far superior. Less single-point-of-failure... and they don't make that squeak-squeak-squeak sound.

I had the tensioner bolt literally snap off a month after I bought my '93; I guess it was over-torqued.
That was a fun night - limping it to O'Reilly's, pulling half the brackets off to get to it, and then drilling and easy-outing the bolt...


As far as belt length goes, though, I've gotten 2 new belts for my '93. Got one at Napa, and they gave me one too /long/ first(turned out to be the Leece Neville alternator part), then the right one.

When I went to O'Reilly's, they got the belt right the first time around, no issues at all.
 

IDIoit

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you cannot mod the open spring tensioner to a closed spring.
you MUST get the closed spring tensioner bracket.
my research, and experience proves that the open spring design can only be bolted up 1 way, but the spring rides on a piece of aluminum.
hardened steel to cast aluminum, IMO there Is bound to be issues.
with the closed spring design, what retains the position of the tensioner is a hole in the cast aluminum bracket, and the cast nipple on the tensioner.
when you bolt the closed spring tensioner on the correct bracket, you get zero feed back on the threads in the alumuinum.
with the open spring design, youre fighting the actual spring.
it rides on a ramp designed to hold the spring and provide tension to the tensioner.
with aluminum threads IMO this is less desirable.

I will be taking off a closed spring design serp system in the next few days if anyone wants pics.
 

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