I pulled the old 86 out of the weeds

Big Bart

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The oil pressure regulator is a slide in a sleeve on these. When there is issues it would be best to pull it out the cooler header for inspection. If all this is good the only other thing left would be its drain in the block to pan.
Look at the pic closely, three parts, two move inside of each other. If the are not stuck as 1mouse suggests perhaps the bleed off passage is clogged. However if it was clogged not sure how the oil pressure would drop later. Maybe those parts are sticking when cold. Maybe they have dirt, sludge, or some corrosion. Pull them, clean them, inspect them, and reinstall them.

I also am going to recommend you drain the oil and and put in new. Maybe your oil is too thick (PO put in some gear oil on mistake.), it’s gelled up with water or chemicals, or has sludge in it.(Clogs it.) Just take that out of the equation.
 

1mouse3

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il
Purple port takes in pressure
Orange arrow is direction of piston with pressure
Blue circle is resistange of move movement for given pressure
Green port will dump oil to pan when orange arrow moves piston
Green port is seen from filter
If passage to or through purple port is clogged, orange arrow cant move
If orange arrow dose not move green port dose not release pressure


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trythis

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On the wheel calipers that were dragging, I just took and pushed pistons back in with a C clamp then release the C clamp mashed breaks did this several times they seem to free up time will tell.
This picture shows the clutch slave cylinder. I'm having trouble getting enough travel or pedal. The clutch does release but the pedal is to the floor when it does I don't know if this is to be expected? I know my 96 it's got a lot more room when the clutch releases. So you can see in the picture I have placed quarter inch nut under the pushrod. it does seem to make some difference. any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I will say that I do think I have all the air out Used every method I could find, even vacuum.
 

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Isaac Ristow

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On the wheel calipers that were dragging, I just took and pushed pistons back in with a C clamp then release the C clamp mashed breaks did this several times they seem to free up time will tell.
This picture shows the clutch slave cylinder. I'm having trouble getting enough travel or pedal. The clutch does release but the pedal is to the floor when it does I don't know if this is to be expected? I know my 96 it's got a lot more room when the clutch releases. So you can see in the picture I have placed quarter inch nut under the pushrod. it does seem to make some difference. any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I will say that I do think I have all the air out Used every method I could find, even vacuum.
Check for firewall flex at the master. Check the master push rod bushing if that stuff is bad it makes a huge difference on how well the clutch releases. They are a royal pain to bleed. Last time I bled one it took 3 people me underneath with the vacuum pump, buddy pumping the clutch like mad and another buddy maintaining fluid level in the reservoir. Also I gotta say that's a very nice looking clark 825 bobcat my dad has one always loved that machine
 

TNBrett

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In addition to what Isaac said, there is a plastic retainer for the slave cylinder that is meant to stay in place and function as a bushing where you have added that hex nut. 1/16” here and there can add up to a significant amount of pedal travel. Also Russ @Type4 Russrepair.com has a new braided clutch hydraulic line that does make the bleeding very easy.
 

trythis

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Check for firewall flex at the master. Check the master push rod bushing if that stuff is bad it makes a huge difference on how well the clutch releases. They are a royal pain to bleed. Last time I bled one it took 3 people me underneath with the vacuum pump, buddy pumping the clutch like mad and another buddy maintaining fluid level in the reservoir. Also I gotta say that's a very nice looking clark 825 bobcat my dad has one always loved that machine
the master cylinder will move a little how do I stop that?
and the bushing is missing great tips thanks!!
the bobcat gets to look like that every great once and a while. I have had it since 1988 and use it every day. But we do go easy now days thanks
 

trythis

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In addition to what Isaac said, there is a plastic retainer for the slave cylinder that is meant to stay in place and function as a bushing where you have added that hex nut. 1/16” here and there can add up to a significant amount of pedal travel. Also Russ @Type4 Russrepair.com has a new braided clutch hydraulic line that does make the bleeding very easy.
I checked out the web site,
got some great stuff.
would you tell me how the braided line will make bleeding easier?
 

Farmer Rock

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When you think the clutch is fully bled ...........
Pump it some more....lol
I found bench bleeding to be the only way to make it happen while keeping my sanity.
I can't tell you how many times I pumped those pedals just for them to hit the floor in town...


Rock
 

TNBrett

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I think it has to do with the factory line looping back on itself in such a way as to always keep a bubble of air in it. With Russ’s I literally hooked everything up, filled the master with fluid, opened the bleeder on the slave cylinder, closed the bleeder after fluid started coming out, pumped the pedal 5 or 10 times, and topped off the master. That was it.
 

trythis

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Brakes are working like there is no boost no power assist
I did put new calipers on the front and replaced one wheel cylinder in the back
strange thing I noticed while I was in the process of bleeding them. I usually let them gravity drain, but they would not I barely got anything to drip out at all left to sit overnight. so I got some help and we pumped them up and bled them that way they bled out just fine.
 

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