Hypermax Intercooler installation on a 93' with Pulse Turbo

[Agnem]

**pictures were all revived from outside sources. sorry for the appearance of them, but atleast they still show what needs to be seen. **

Lady Moose is a hard working truck that has hauled our 6000 pound 30' 5th wheel camper all over the eastern half of the country, mainly going to IDI Weekends and other brotherhood rallies. This 1993 F-350 crew cab dually that spent the first 72,000 miles of it's life in North Carolina came to us as a factory clean normally aspirated truck, and we sucessfully hauled our camper in that configuration for a couple of years that way, with the first modification being a divorced Gear Vendors unit, giving her 9 forward gears. The desire for more power found the addition of a used Hypermax turbo being added a year later, and upgraded to the pulse model in that process. She continued to tow that way for several more years, but I was always aware that she ran very hot on the EGT's when challenged with long grades of any size. To combat this, I have now added a Hypermax Intercooler kit for the pulse turbo system.

The Intercooler kit comes in one large box, with each item well packed.

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I unpacked all the parts and spread them out on the floor and made sure everything was there. The items you see in the chair are from the Hypermax cold induction intake kit that I also ordered and will be adding next.

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Lady Moose just before starting the project.

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The first order of business, was to remove the air dam and front bumper and grill guard. Here we see Mrs. Moose with the work light and air ratchet removing the air dam bolts.

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Once those were removed, the grill, headlight and turnsignal trim and headlight support sub core were also taken off. The hardest part of this job was getting to the two nuts that hold the turnsignal lens on. It would have been much easier to remove the batteries, but we didn't. The new intercooler is in the foreground.

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A 3" hole saw is required to clearance the core support for the cold air output pipe on the intercooler. The biggest one I had was 2.5", so I took some measurements and decided this would make due. A chart is provided to locate the center point. It is not a template, but rather measurement points. I got it pretty close. Ultimately, due to the smaller hole, higher precision was required and I drilled 1/4" too high. If I was using the 3" hole saw, this would not have been an issue. This resulted in my intercooler resting on the bottom of the hole. I do not know yet what ramafications may result from this, but I'm taking my chances.

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In addition to the hole for the intercooler rearward facing pipe, the fan shroud plastic must also be clearanced. The installation manual said that additional core support grinding would be needed to clear the lower pipe, but I did not find this necessary.

Once this hole was made, the intercooler brackets were bolted onto the intercooler, and then the intercooler was held in place and mounting holes located. Two holes will be drilled in the upper part of the core support, and one hole will be drilled in the lower right area.

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The lower right bushing is then located and a hole drilled to mount it.

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In order for the intercooler to not rub against the air conditioning condensor, the bracket for the condensor must be bent to clearance the unit. After carefull consideration of different methods available to do this, I decided to use my feet instead of my head.

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The interference point occurs at the intercooler pipe connection. Here we see sufficient clearance to get the boot on without rubbing.

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Another hole is needed on the left lower corner to mount the support tab on the bottom intercooler pipe. Here I am tightening the bolt to secure it.

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Once the intercooler and pipe is mounted and connected to each other, you can safely put the front of the truck back together. Here is the completed assembly at this point.

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Once the front of the truck is done, it's time to turn your attention to the under-hood part of the task. The first step is to replace the existing intake hat, with the new one from the kit. The key is to make sure that the hat fits correctly, and that the sealing O-ring seats properly and is not distorted. The use of mirror aids greatly in ensuring a correct fit.

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[Agnem]

article part 2

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Once the hat is on and bolted snugly, reconnect your boost gauge line and proceed to the core support area, where the rubber boots to make the pipe connections are to be installed. Slide the boots over the intercooler pipes, and tighten the forward hose clamps. Stretegically locate your worm screws so that you will be able to reach them once both pipes are in place. I used a 15" 3/8" drive socket extension to get to them.

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In order to lay my connecting pipes down, I had to move some cables, bend an AC line and remove the dipstick support bracket. This was later moved and bent to postition the dipstick where I wanted it.

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Once both pipes were connected at both ends, I left the clamps loose and concentrated on the mounting ear.

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I had previously installed a coolant filter, and fabricated a bracket that bolted to the filter head mount. This needed to be moved. Hypermax supplies a bracket that connects the mounting tab on the intercooler pipes to the filter head. Due to my slight mislocation of the intercooler core support hole, I had to re-drill the hole for the second bolt.

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Once everything was in place, all fasteners were tightened. One thing that becomes immediately appearant when adding an intercooler with this piping arrangement, is that changing the fuel filter becomes an issue. This is because the filter is "caged" between the intercooler pipes and fuel line and injector lines.

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Fortunately, a remedy for this is available. Moose Products offers a high performance feed line for the 7.3L filter head which consists of a flexible braided fuel line and associated fittings. This allows the fuel filter to be removed and replaced easily without disconnecting any lines or pipes.

First, remove the factory hard line between the filter head and the injection pump. Then remove the nose cone inlet fitting.

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The inlet fitting (on the left) is then replaced with the new fitting from the kit (right).

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The fitting on the filter head is also replaced. Remove the factory fitting and install the one from the kit.

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Once the fittings are installed it is a simple matter to route and connect the line.

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Make sure it doesn't interfere with putting your air filter housing back on.

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This completed the installation of the intercooler kit. Performance data will be posted back once the truck is dyno'ed at the 2010 IDI Weekend, at which time I will ammend this article.

Mrs. Moose is now very happy that Lady Moose is just as cool as she is!

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