Hydroboost swap in progress, hit some snags and need advice

[Golden Helmet]

Heya fellas. I'm knee deep in my hydroboost swap, halfway there! Pedals are swapped, the Hydroboost unit is in place, right now I'm reconnecting the BOO switch and the vacuum thingy. Told ya I'd get stuck on something simple

I'm trying to figure this brake on/off switch thing out. I have the connector plugged in, but I have no idea how it's supposed to go on the pedal. Nothing seems to hold it in place, it just kinda dangles there on the brake pedal rod. Right now everything is in this order, from left to right: BOO Switch, red cotter pin, white washer, brake booster rod, black bushing. I'm trying to search for the answer right now, but if one of you guys happen to know the answer off the top of your head, I can use all the help I can get

I'm sure there will be more snags. I can't get the new reservoir on to the reman pump I bought, some fitting is in the way and I don't have a vice to hold the pump so I can take the fitting off. That's gonna be tomorrows project I think. Also gotta figure out how to get the old pump off the truck, looks like one bolt is blocked by the pulley? I haven't gotten that far yet, I'll figure that out when I get there.

 

[gandalf]

I have a picture of this on my truck. I try to always take pictures because I understand the limitations of my memory. So I have some pictures.

Unfortunately those pictures are in my computer in San Jose, and I'm in Reno. I think I'll be home next week, so if you still need them please let me know.

As I recall, that thing is mounted on the pedal, using the large pin which also holds the rod from the hydroboost unit. Could the pins be different sizes for different applications? Just an idle thought.

 

[Golden Helmet]

I think I'm done for the day. I decided to pass some time by reaming out the MC holes. The battery in my POS harbor freight drill quit on me halfway through the job, go figure. So I went back under the dash to fiddle with the switch, and the white spacer decided to make a mad dash for freedom. That plus two on the booster nuts are now MIA under the carpet somewhere. I'm running out of 4 letter words for this "4 hour job", tomorrow's another day.

 

[typ4]

The brake switch should fit over the rod, slot on inside ,circle on outside then clip to hold it on.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I think I'm done for the day. I decided to pass some time by reaming out the MC holes. The battery in my POS harbor freight drill quit on me halfway through the job, go figure. So I went back under the dash to fiddle with the switch, and the white spacer decided to make a mad dash for freedom. That plus two on the booster nuts are now MIA under the carpet somewhere. I'm running out of 4 letter words for this "4 hour job", tomorrow's another day.

sometimes ya just gotta take a break and walk away.attack it again when your fresh.it's a fun swap.enjoy it.don't fight it or it will drag.your getting there by the sounds of it.just keep reminding yourself how massive of an upgrade your in for.

testing;

http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...YSTEM/Brake-Light-Switch/_/P-0996b43f802c5489

wrong vehicle.oh well.same idea though.

oh;
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528008afaa

 

[Golden Helmet]

The brake switch should fit over the rod, slot on inside ,circle on outside then clip to hold it on.

The clip you're talking about, do you mean the cotter pin? I'm asking because I broke some piece of plastic while removing the old pedal assembly, I thought it was a tab for the brake switch connector so I didn't worry about it. Now I'm wondering if I broke a clip that's supposed to hold the switch in place?

sometimes ya just gotta take a break and walk away.attack it again when your fresh.it's a fun swap.enjoy it.don't fight it or it will drag.your getting there by the sounds of it.just keep reminding yourself how massive of an upgrade your in for.

testing;

http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...YSTEM/Brake-Light-Switch/_/P-0996b43f802c5489

wrong vehicle.oh well.same idea though.

oh;
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528008afaa

Thanks for the links! I'm having trouble making heads or tails of the 91-95 diagram, but the 87-90 one looks like what I'm dealing with, though it makes me think I might have a second bushing that's MIA too. I'll get pictures tomorrow and hit up the junkyard to see what I can find, my other "problem child" needs a center console clip anyways so I can grab that too.

I'm really looking forward to the upgrade, the brakes on my truck have bugged me since day 1 of ownership. The only hydroboosted truck I've driven is my dads Chevy 2500HD, if this'll get me even half of what that beast has I'll be the second- happiest man in the world (the winner is whoever has hydroboost AND a turbo, that ain't happening for a looooong time here)

 

[icanfixall]

Get under the dash on any trucks like yours be it gas or diesel. Take a pic of the brake light trigger switch on the peddle. Or find same in any truck in wrecking yard. Shop for those missing pocket parts..

 

[towcat]

I think I'm done for the day. I decided to pass some time by reaming out the MC holes. The battery in my POS harbor freight drill quit on me halfway through the job, go figure. So I went back under the dash to fiddle with the switch, and the white spacer decided to make a mad dash for freedom. That plus two on the booster nuts are now MIA under the carpet somewhere. I'm running out of 4 letter words for this "4 hour job", tomorrow's another day.

betcha the booster nuts dropped off your socket on removal and into the abyss between the carpet and insulation or between the insulation and metal firewall. don't ask how I know.

 

[Golden Helmet]

Back at it today. Got the MC mounted to the hydrobooster! What a PITA that was. Question for you guys, is the firewall supposed to flex when you're ******* the brake pedal? I haven't hooked anything to the booster yet other than the MC, so it's not powered yet.

Still fighting the brake switch. It's not going on the rod all the way, so only the slotted side is keeping it on the rod. Doesn't seem right. Also with the Super Duty brake switch, if I install it slotted-side-in, the prongs interfere with the pedal arm. If I install it circle-side-in then the prongs clear, and the F250 brake switch has no clearance issues other than only one side fitting on the brake rod. Still working on it.

 

[Golden Helmet]

I just got a better look at the junkyard pics I took, I think I see where I'm going wrong here. As soon as I finish my pizza break i'll mess with it again, and i'll take pics because it looks like I found a rookie trap

 

[Golden Helmet]

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That's looking more like it, now everything fits on the rod. Now it's on to the fine tuning, I can get the switch to a spot where the brake lights work correctly, but after a few applications the lights will stay on. Gonna have to RTFM on that one I think. Not sure how the Super Duty brake switch was supposed to be helpful here, I couldn't find a spot to orient it where it looked like the regular brake switches in the other trucks, every time I tried the prongs interfered with the pedal arm. Using the old F250 switch right now, unplugged for now.

Tomorrow's bear to tackle will be the power steering pump. It looks like the pulley has to come off in order to remove the pump, is that right?

betcha the booster nuts dropped off your socket on removal and into the abyss between the carpet and insulation or between the insulation and metal firewall. don't ask how I know.

That is exactly where they went. I tried pulling back the carpet and insulation, but they're gone, the abyss ate them.

 

[typ4]

The switch terminals should be pointing at you, not the floor.
It does not go parallel to the pedal arm.

Send sausages to Russ Mathis, 112 east ................... lol

 

[79jasper]

Correct. Pulley has to come off.
Get the power steering pulley puller from your favorite parts store.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Golden Helmet]

The switch terminals should be pointing at you, not the floor.
It does not go parallel to the pedal arm.

Send sausages to Russ Mathis, 112 east ................... lol

With all the small detail stuff I've been getting stuck on, by the time I'm done I'll be owing everyone on here a case of ribeye each

 

[nj_m715]

I swapped the plastic tanks on my ps pump w/o removing it from the truck. I didn't have a puller handy and wanted to get it done.
messy, but do-able