How to use twin fuel tanks?

[dan-o]

My 1989 F35 has twin tanks. I need to drop both tanks. The front one needs a fuel level indicator. It reads full all the time. The rear one needs a new shower head pickup. My question is: Can I run either of the tanks empty (to make the weight manageable) without getting air in the IP and having to try and bleed all the lines, etc.
I don't want to make a whole lot more work for my old ass.
(Sucks being a newbie at 62 years old!)
Thanks for the help!

 

[Ky85]

You can run one out, or at least close to it. Makes dropping it a lot easier.

Probably best to do it parked if the gauges dont read accurate.

 

[hacked89]

The one with a broken shower head will sputter and have air intrusion at a certain point. That point will have some decent weight. The other one, sure run it down.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Cubey]

You could buy a $10 universal 12v fuel pump to transfer fuel from one tank to another, or even pump it out into 5 gallon gas cans. It won't get it totally empty, but it'll get it as empty as possible.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You could buy a $10 universal 12v fuel pump to transfer fuel from one tank to another, or even pump it out into 5 gallon gas cans. It won't get it totally empty, but it'll get it as empty as possible.

Plus it would save on potential air intrusion.

 

[dan-o]

Great information, thanks all!

 

[IDIoit]

if your tank reads fuel you have a signal. its a ground issue.
if your tank reads empty, you have a signal issue.

if you desire new sending units. the ohm reading is 15E 175F
tube style senders are awesome.

any gauge issues with the factory stuff... imo is a switch valve issue.
as both tanks feed the electrical through here.
ive found this to be the culprit several times.

if you must have 2 tanks, its worth going manual ball valves.

I have a 38 gallon single tank. 440 mile range, good enough for me

 

[nj_m715]

+1 for the 38g tank. they go for 125$ will be brand new, rust and leak free, bolt in, no need to fool with the selector valve failing or leaking

when I'm not sure how much fuel is in the tank, I loosen the straps and lower it onto a floor jack to manage the weight, just be ready for it to slosh and shift weight
or build cribbing with cinder block, 2x4 etc

you can siphon / pump most of it out

 

[G. Mann]

First, buy a cheap 12V fuel pump and clear poly hose from home depot, or ace hardware... you can see the fuel being pumped out.

Get some 12 volt low voltage landscape light wire and make a 12V extension cord for the pump so you can work near the tanks.. put a 12v rated switch in the line to the pump so you can control it easily.

Disconnect the supply hose from the tank and plug in your clear hose, turn on pump and pump fuel out into fuel cans.

If you shower head problem tank won't let you do that to empty the tank, pull the vent fitting out of top of the tank [it has a grommet and comes out fairly easily], insert your poly clear hose into that hole to the bottom of the tank and pump it dry..

THEN... put a floor jack or transmission jack [my favorite, if you have one] under the tank and release the straps. Lower the tank and then you can work on it easily.

Replacement with a transmission jack works sweet.. if your jack has tilt and angle adjustments... I'm spoiled..

Ratchet straps are your friend to hold the tank to the jack.

Good luck!

 

[jmjc123]

+1 for the 38g tank. they go for 125$ will be brand new, rust and leak free, bolt in, no need to fool with the selector valve failing or leaking

when I'm not sure how much fuel is in the tank, I loosen the straps and lower it onto a floor jack to manage the weight, just be ready for it to slosh and shift weight
or build cribbing with cinder block, 2x4 etc

you can siphon / pump most of it out

 

[jmjc123]

What is the part# & where did you purchase the tank. What if any other parts did you have to purchase to complete install.

Thanks in advance

JC

 

[catbird7]

Just another approach to consider, you might consider letting your tanks right where they are and remove your bed. Laying under the truck gets old quick and removing the bed also eliminates the need to drain tanks. Would also give you the perfect opportunity to clean and paint your frame.

 

[nj_m715]

http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/DZLJIM/Ford/38gallonOBStank.htm

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/project-the-new-cdd-shop-truck.82986/page-38#post-1047573

theres a few thread on here about them

this should be it, they usually come with longer bolts, skid plate spacers and sending unit extension

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-...917977&hash=item4423fe060e:g:X9IAAOSwBzpblFml

make sure that takes your sender, amazon has them too, shop around

 

[dan-o]

I would love to just take off the bed, but it's an ambulance that we're converting into an RV. I couldn't pass up the rig. They were practically giving it away. It had an electrical problem that was an easy fix, so I figure it owes me a repair that will be a pain in the neck. Thanks for the input!