How To: Remove That Infamous Top Starter Bolt

Thatoneguy

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Hey.This just came to me.Do you guys realize what we could do? You could take a long threaded rod and make a very long top bolt.Set two nuts (I would use nyloc's) to normal length for the starter.Then another set of dual nuts out at the end for your custom easy to reach bolt head,just past the starter,or actually I guess just a couple inches short of the starter,this way a deep socket with a ratchet can back it right out without fuss and so that taking it out and in is effortless as well.This would be super fast to turn out and to turn it back in and line it up with your fingers super easy too.
Someone should try it and post a pic.

I like the idea... But I don't forsee myself burning up enough starters to be worth it lol
 

BradleyCampbell

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Just how many cus words do you suppose that one single bolt is accountable for anyway?:D

This is a very short and sweet pictorial guide which will likely save you from using the lord's name in vain once and for all.


Your probably going to be very surprised when you see this.You'll likely come to understand that,that top bolt isn't actually that hard to get to,after all.I know,your skeptical but just wait until next time.You'll see.

I took this pic at the slightly wrong angle.What you need is a socket and ratchet combo measuring approx 9 and 3/4 of an inch.
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If your wires are in the way to do this,then you'll need to disconnect them first.Your batteries should be unplugged before you pull your starter anyway.So go ahead and move them out of the way.When you go to put the starter back in,route your wires out of the way for an easier and quicker job of it next time.

Place your socket and extension(s) up in as shown,first without your ratchet on.Guide it onto the top bolt by feeling the head of the bolt with your other hand.Now that you've guided the combo onto the head of the bolt,slowly and carefully slide your ratchet on and turn it out.

You'll notice if you try and turn it out all the way,you'll not be able to remove your ratchet so before you bind up and have to turn it back in,simply take your ratchet off and finish turning the bolt out just by spinning the extension(s).

This also means of course,that you'll turn the bolt back in when you replace your starter,by using just the extension until you gain the clearance to fit your ratchet on and snug the bolt down.

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That's it.That really is all there is to it.Now you can remove and install a starter on an IDI engine in less than 20 minutes from start to finish and keep in good graces with the creator.:D
This does not look anything like my 94 IDI turbo. I can't see the side of the starter as the frame is in the way. My starter is between the frame and oil pan. I wonder why you can even see so much of your starter on this 94? I am unable to see that top fastener.
 

chillman88

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This does not look anything like my 94 IDI turbo. I can't see the side of the starter as the frame is in the way. My starter is between the frame and oil pan. I wonder why you can even see so much of your starter on this 94? I am unable to see that top fastener.

There were 3 or 4 different styles of starter available over the years. They all bolt in the same, but they are all built slightly different. That's why yours looks different.
 

Cubey

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In the original post, is that bolt a problem with 4wds or something? Or later gens? Here's a pic of my 87 F250's. Has more room it looks like. I paid a shop to replace it and the problem they had was the starter in the parts fiche was wrong and wouldn't fit. Took 3 tries before they got the right one.

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The space on my RV might be different. It's got probably the original starter still. Old pic, didn't take a shot with the space at the end visible.

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IDIBRONCO

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It's the bolt on the other side of the solenoid that gives the problem (you can't see it in your pictures). I think that it's usually more of a starter shape issue than anything else.
 

ISPKI

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I have a combination of 3/8" extensions that seem to fit back there just right. Done maybe 4 starters on different trucks over the last several years and it was not that big of an issue, but yeah its almost impossible to actually see it from any angle.
 

ttman4

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One other way to get to that top inside vengeful bolt is to start taking the starter apart piece by piece till you can get to that bolt. Guaranteed to work!! LOL

Once was in a starter repair shop getting my semi starter rebuilt. In comes a local farmer, mad as blazes, carrying a cardboard box full of starter pieces & bolts that came off a Ford farm tractor. Said he couldn't get to top inside bolt so he just took the starter apart. Then had to bring to starter shop to get it put back together.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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top starter bolt? never heard of her! lol
stud on the top for the win.

also a powermaster 9050 is alot easier
What length stud do you install? I have to swap a starter next weekend and I'm trying to prepare for a quick driveway job. I believe it's a 3/8-16 thread, just wondering how long you typically go as I'm guessing too long and you end up with the "I trapped the tool in the truck" issue that happens with removing the factory bolt.
 

Big Bart

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Thank you all for posting your shortcuts. Was not aware it was such a PITA. But will now avoid the frustration many have experienced.

Also for future members reading this post. TNBrett taught me these trucks have two starter solenoids which is an oddity. There is one on the passenger fender wall and one on the starter itself. The key in start position energizes the soleniod on the fender. (Like most 60’s, 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s Fords) That fender soleniod then supplies power to the soleniod on top of the starter. (The one on the starter pushes out the starter gear and sends power to the starter so it rotates.) So when diagnosing a starter issue you need to test that power is leaving the fender solenoid and getting to the starter solenoid on the starter causing that soleniod to activate the starter. In a pinch (Traveling and have a no start but your starter is good.) you can put a screw driver (Or use a jumper cable) between the two big posts on the fender solenoid to start your truck. You will get some sparks and likey burn a little chrome off your screwdriver but much cheaper to replace a screw driver than pay for a tow truck.

If you are not getting power with the key in start position at your small post on the fender soleniod, check your ignition switch, check for power to your ignition switch (Fuse), wiring to and from, and your tranny safety/neutral switch. Also that the slide bar from your key lock cylinder to your ignition switch is pushing it all the way to the start position. At +/-30 years old these trucks are wearing out parts.
 
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IDIBRONCO

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It's not quite as much of an oddity as you think. From my experience (with Dent Sides only), the 460s also had two stater solenoids. Just like our trucks have.
 

Big Bart

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My thought is Ford found it easier or cheaper to do it this way than have yet another wiring schematic and harness. (IE - Add a single wire between soleniods.) TNBrett suggests it’s a high amp load issue with the starter. Who knows maybe it’s both or TNBrett is correct. It would be interesting to know officially why Ford did it this way.
 

IDIoit

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What length stud do you install? I have to swap a starter next weekend and I'm trying to prepare for a quick driveway job. I believe it's a 3/8-16 thread, just wondering how long you typically go as I'm guessing too long and you end up with the "I trapped the tool in the truck" issue that happens with removing the factory bolt.
2"
 
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