How To: Manual Glow Plug Switch

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TBigLug

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Just for the newbie's, I wanted to do a step by step for how to wire up a manual GP switch. Note: This is just how I did my 1986 Ford F-250 as an example. Differant years will require a differant setup. It is by no way and all inclusive guide. Bypass factory systems at your own risk.

Parts:
1- Push button switch
1- Add-a-circuit fuse tap
20'- 14 ga. wire
3- ring connectors
1- Butt connector
Several zip ties
Drill w/ 5/8" bit

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First, choose a spot for your switch. I opted to put mine between the hood release and brake release. Make sure there is enough room behind the dash for the switch body. I did mine here because I only had a bit to drill through plastic not steel.

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Then, drill a 5/8" hole for the switch.

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Find a circuit in your fuse box to tap into for power.

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I chose this 10 amp spot because it always has power. Install your Add-a-circuit with a 10 amp fuse in it.

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I routed my wire (push button to GP solenoid) through the same hole that the speedometer cable runs through. Make sure you leave enough inside the truck to reach your new switch.

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It will come out just below and to the left of your brake booster.

Route the wire (push button to GP solenoid) along the back of the engine compartment, zip tying it up and out of the way.

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Install a ring connector on the end of your wire (push button to GP solenoid) at the solenoid.

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Pull the purple wire (factory GP controller to GP solenoid) off of the solenoid.

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Install the wire (push button to GP solenoid) onto the exposed post and pin it down with the purple wire (factory GP controller to GP solenoid).

*Note*
If you want to eliminate the factory GP controller altogether, leave the purple wire off and find a small nut the appropriate size for the post and nut down the ring connector.

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The switch I used is a 15 amp push button switch I got from Autozone.

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Cut a piece of wire long enough to go from your new switch to your Add-a-circuit in the fuse box. Strip the ends of the wires (both the push button switch to GP solenoid and push button switch to Add-a-circuit) and install one on each of the terminals of the switch. It doesn't matter which one goes where.

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Strip the other and of your short wire (push button switch to Add-a-circuit) and hook it up to the Add-a-circuit.

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Finally, mount your switch through the hole and put the under dash cover back in place. I had to trim mine a little to clear the switch.

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Now, your factory controller will still run your GP's but if you need an extra couple seconds, you can manually activate them.

Total time was about 20 minutes and total cost was less than $20.

 
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TBigLug

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Also, another important tool is the helper dog. Mine's name is Bam Bam.

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SparkandFire

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Good write up and good pics! Thanks!

One question... On my truck, the purple wire is left off, and there is a nut on the relay that holds the wire (from the pushbutton) down...

I think, if that purple wire is put back on, won't the original controller still be able to activate the relay??
 

TBigLug

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You are correct. If you want to bypass the GP controller completely, you need to leave the purple wire off and put a nut on the stud to hold your manual switch wire down.

My intention was to leave the controller hooked up (for when my g/f or grandfather drive the truck) but be able to get another 5 second burn if the factory 10 seconds isn't enough to lite it off.

Good eye S&F, I forgot to mention that.
 

franklin2

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This is for the older glowplug systems on the 6.9's correct?
 

jim x 3

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Tbig: I like the bungie on the e-brake.

Hammer: The work is substantially the same for the '88. Exceptions are:
- Dash switch is wired to ground instead of fused +12V
- Dash switch wire to solenoid is shorter (because it goes thru firewall only to the GP controller)
- the above wire connects to GP controller terminal with the white wire already connected (rather than purple)

Good luck.

Regards,
 

SparkandFire

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I was debating running the purple wire to a SPDT switch in the cab, then back to the relay to make an "MANUAL-AUTO" switch for the GPC, BUT, my controller failed to the side of destruction, and took eight Beru glowplugs with it. So, to make the "MANUAL-AUTO" switch idea come to fruition, I will need a new controller first.

Mel had a schematic for a home made controller that would work well. I've got all the parts here in the shop to build it, I just have no time whatsoever!
 

zacky6661

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Thanks TBig, I havent been on in awhile, my old 84 already had full manual glows, I just got an 86 that still has full auto glows, and its a PITA to start. I've literally had it for a day, bought it already warmed up and running, got back into town and went straight to work, after work the thing was a darn grump to start.

Ill be doing more troubleshooting tomorrow, I tried bleeding the fuel filter for air but alas, none in the system. I'll be inspecting the return lines, god I hope the IP isnt dying...

Either way, thanks cause I plan to convert it to full manual.
 
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