HOW TO: Install the explorer overhead console

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alienturtle

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Welp guys I present to you another How To. This one involves installing the overhead console from a ford explorer which includes the outside temp as well as a compass. Lets get started shall we

First step is to come up with the overhead console from a ford explorer. The unit is self contained which makes it nice for grabbing from the junk yard or off ebay. There are 2 versions of the console. Both will work in our pickups with no problems. The explorers with sunroofs have a shorter console just like the one i got. The explores without a sunroof has a longer console and has a net pouch cubby thing to put stuff on the end. Searching ebay i didnt see a lot of the longer ones. I just ended up with this one for 45$. One thing to note. The mounting plate is not necessary for the install. I would however try to get the connector. I sent a message to the guy i bought mine from and he said he would include the mounting plate as well as the connector. You will also need to get the outside temp sensor for the gauge. You can get this from ford or if you are at the junk yard snag it as well. Ford part number F87Z-12A647-AA Perfect!

Now that you have the goods lets begin. Here is what you will start with.

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The connector and bottom side:

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There are a couple different ways to mount this. You can move it all the way forward to the windshield and over the metal trip piece. I installed the autometer 3 gauge pod so this how to will reflect the console being right behind the metal trip piece.

3 things that will need to be cut off right off the bat. The 2 taps with the metal clips as well as a little nipple piece that sticks up in the back between the 2 mounting screws. Use a dremal or how ever you need to cut them off

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Next thing to do is fit it to the headliner. In my case i can hold it up there and see that a LOT has to come off the front section of it. I didnt know how much so i used some tape and made a straight line across it and cut small sections off as i went along. REMEMBER you can also remove more BUT if you go to far adding plastic back on is very hard :) ;Sweet

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As you can see in the next 2 pics below is the front mounting screw. there is a little post that sticks up. my cut was right above this molded in post.

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At this point the back of the 2 dome light sockets will be hitting the headliner and its time to cut the hole for it. This allowed for me to continue to shape the plastic to match the headliner. First step is to make a template. I wanted to keep as much headliner as i could.

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Trace.....

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and cut...

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alienturtle

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Part 2

Now that the console can fit up into the headliner better the next step will be to disassemble the unit. I wanted to do this for 2 reasons. I didnt want to sand anything of importance (like wires ect) and i wanted to clean everything up and dye it to match the grey dash. To disassemble, it is a matter of taking the few star screws out of the back and it will fall apart. Like so..

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Once you have just the outer "shell" its just a matter of sanding/shaving/ cutting the sides all the way around to make it as tight to the headliner as possible. I went to town with my hand grinder and a flappy disk. The trick is to sand a little and hold it up there. Sand a little more..Fit it again. You dont have to get it PERFECT because it will "suck" up into the headliner when all tight and mounted.

In the end after i painted and re assembled this is what i came up with:

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Time to make the mounting brackets. You can go to your local tractorsupply or what ever and get a small sheet of flat steel to make the brackets out of. Or since the guy gave me the original bracket i am going to cut that up and use it. 2 of the mounts are in the back and they come up through the garage door/sunglasses holder, through the headliner and into the bracket. To make this one cut here:

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Then flatten the 90 but leave the small 45 angle on the other side. This will help push on the headliner.

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The 2 holes that are already in the bracket you cut off are where the original screws came through and grabbed the plate. One bracket done

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alienturtle

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part 3

Now since we cut the tabs with the clips off we need a mount in the front. Remove these 2 screws from each side and find 2 screws that will go through the metal plate, through the headliner and back into where you took the screws out. I WARN YOU!! Where the screws go into the plastic it is thin! You will want to find a screw that is the same size but a bit longer. You want it long enough to tighten everything down but not to long where it bottoms out and breaks the plastic its screwing into.

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Take the rest of the original bracket and flatten:

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Cut off at the end of the squares:

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Then cut in half across the circles:

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Now measure and drill the 2 holes for the screws. This will give you a nice wide base to mount against.

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Before you re assembled the components back into the bezel i should of said to hold it up to the headliner where you want it and mark the 2 holes for the front mount. Because the front mount screws need to go in from above the headliner you wont know where the holes are unless you do so and make the holes in the headliner.

Once all mounting its wiring time. Its pretty straight forward as fallows. You can get the power from the home light or run new power up left pillar and over.

There are 8 different color wires coming out of the console:

Red/Blue
Dimmer switch:
Matches the brightness with the rest of the interior lights.
Not needed if you just want it on full bright all the time.

Blue/Yellow
Blue/White
Temp Sensor:
Run to wherever you mount the temperature sensor. I mounted my sensor outside behind the bumper but try to keep it out of the wind as much as possible

Black
Ground

Black/Blue
Green/Orange
Dome lights:
Black/Blue is power to the lights, You can hook this up a few different ways. You can hook them up so they work off the dome light from the doors. In the configuration you wont have the map lights unless your door is open. To make them map lights just hook them up to a constant power source.

Green/Orange is for power to lights in the visors so not used.

Grey/Black
Vehicle Speed Sensor:
This wire is to be spliced into the speed sensor of the car so the console can compensate for wind chill. Dont need to hook this wire up. Im not sure if it would even work if you did hook it up. Just try to keep the sensor out of the wind or just know its going to read colder when you are hauling down the freeway ;Sweet

Yellow/Grey
Power:
This is the main power that will go to the console.

Well i think you guys can handle it from here. I dont have a final pic as i took mine back down to wire it up and tomorrow i will finish that. Hope i made another great how to
 
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Optikalillushun

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Hmm i had something to add to this and it didnt show up.

95-97 consoles were a blue/green display and 98+ had a dark green like the factory guages. Also i didnt see anything about setting up the compass orination. Also an additional feature if u grab the entire harness is the ability to use an auto-dimming rear view mirror from the same vehicle.
 

War Wagon

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Great write up on the overhead console. Hope to see more on the gauge pod. So Ideally you would want a 98+ console?
 
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