How do you start your engine on WMO?

Jesus Freak

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So how do y'all start your engines? I'm not really scientific with my WMO, a little settling and a little filtering, and about 10% rug....... kinda.....but in north west Florida it's hot enough I run almost straight wmo. So when I started using this stuff more than a year ago I would start up and shut down on diesel, and then I got less scientific and started using ether. Over 50°F, it's a brief shot and it fires almost immediately. Under 50°, it's a brief shot some cranking another shot and a little more cranking and she's usually alive. And that's in a turbo 7.3idi.
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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I worked my gas ratio up to where engine started easy even when cold weather. I run a summer blend and winter blends
I've heard by some folks that the gas has additives bad for a diesel. Causes ash build up? Whatever, can't be that bad me thinks.

Some people get it to a science and run it like regular diesel. Others use the two tank method, and start on diesel and switch to WMO then go back to diesel on shut down.

Never-Have-I-Ether
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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So, y'all work it so that your glow plugs will fire it?
I use the two tank method. Our trucks have both so might as well put it to good use. I start stop on diesel and put it on WMO once engine is warmed up and before shut down. Keeps it clean.

Never-Have-I-Ether
 

Mt_Man

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I have a stock dodge truck with single tank. So I blend it to run well all the time. Never had an issue so far. I tow heavy a lot though. Cummins is di and grid heater so no glow plugs. I have thought that glow plugs replacement would just be part of some interval maintenance. I have wanted to do interval inspection on my injectors every 25-50k to see coking level, pop, and patterning but never have the time. I have been reading that water injection would clean the top of the cylinders/injectors nicely. Maybe this fall I will build a setup. I have several friend with setups.
I think the big part of is it being to thick for the injection pump or injectors when cold. Not atomizing enough. If you are in doubt the starting reliability then plug the block heater in and that will help significantly until you get a blend you truck likes. The veg oil guys have all sorts of injection line heater, fuel filter heaters, line heaters, etc that plug in to keep it warm and ready to go.
The other thought to think about is diesel engines compress the air to the point where it is hot enough that when the injection event happens it burst into flame. So if the oil your using has a higher autoignition temp then it will be harder to light when cold starting.
 

Jesus Freak

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I use the two tank method. Our trucks have both so might as well put it to good use. I start stop on diesel and put it on WMO once engine is warmed up and before shut down. Keeps it clean.

Never-Have-I-Ether
When I was working 30+ miles from home I did the 2 tank thing. But I struck me because of the return lines I was turning my diesel tank into a wmo tank a little at a time. That's some of the reason I just started using ether. And now I'm only @10 miles from work so it would be silly to swap tanks. I need to figure out a way to manage my return fuel so as to keep a "clean diesel" tank. I was going to bend my brain to consider that in the not too distant future, but I've been busy thinking about other stuff.
 

drewr13NJ

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I generally blend about 12 to 15% RUG to my WMO and I haven't had any issues. It is a little cold natured after sitting 8 to 10 hours at work in the cold weather, but it starts alright with the glow plugs and good batteries. It starts fine in the mornings with the block heater plugged in. In the warm weather, it starts really fast. I only have a single rear 38 gallon tank, so I have no choice but to add diesel once in a while if I feel the need, which I have done to "clean it out" so to speak. I might add a second tank in the future with some 3 way ball valves.
 

kbenz

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When I was working 30+ miles from home I did the 2 tank thing. But I struck me because of the return lines I was turning my diesel tank into a wmo tank a little at a time. That's some of the reason I just started using ether. And now I'm only @10 miles from work so it would be silly to swap tanks. I need to figure out a way to manage my return fuel so as to keep a "clean diesel" tank. I was going to bend my brain to consider that in the not too distant future, but I've been busy thinking about other stuff.
I currently have my return line going to only my wmo tank trying to avoid that. Return moves so much diesel you can almost watch the fuel gage drop. Going to put a valve in cab to switch and just deal with having some oil in my tank
 

Jesus Freak

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I currently have my return line going to only my wmo tank trying to avoid that. Return moves so much diesel you can almost watch the fuel gage drop. Going to put a valve in cab to switch and just deal with having some oil in my tank
That's kinda my plan. I'm thinking of doing something like acidburn, but different on my tow truck. I'd like to keep it operating with the glow plugs. But progress is slow on it right now. Even though you're loosing the clean diesel at least you're not throwing it away.
 
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Mt_Man

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The veg oil guys used to use a "sight glass" on their return line so they could see if the line had flushed out enough then switch it back to the clean diesel tank. They used a inline cleanable filter that was a small cylinder in shape. This could help you see when to switch return to which tank. They did have leaking problems though iirc
 

Jesus Freak

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The veg oil guys used to use a "sight glass" on their return line so they could see if the line had flushed out enough then switch it back to the clean diesel tank. They used a inline cleanable filter that was a small cylinder in shape. This could help you see when to switch return to which tank. They did have leaking problems though iirc
I actually did that, but until I get my returns going somewhere other than the diesel tank I just muddy up the diesel so there's no telling.
 

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sieg01

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I actually did that, but until I get my returns going somewhere other than the diesel tank I just muddy up the diesel so there's no telling.
Thanks for the pic.
And yes, the return line looks like in your pic for quiet some time - until it got cleaned by the diesel.

Nachschlag:
I want to confirm, that a 2-tank system is recommended if you want to drive straight WVO.
But - like said - it will only work on longer distances or longer engine running time - in case you still have the mechanical LiftPump running.
Our fuel lines a quiet long - and our filter(s) are also huge.

My return line goes to a magnet valve.
The valve switches
-back to the WVO tank
or
- in a loop back to the LP
The main Diesel tank is not connected to the return line.
This setup ensures, that the middle tank contains always clean/straight diesel.

If you use an electric transfer pump, then you may add an additional "flush-button" in the cockpit. This you'll press if you want to drive the WVO/WMO till switching off the engine or if you forgot to flush before switching off the engine.
Then the content of the filter(s), fuel lines and IP is pushed into the WVO/WMO-tank.
 
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Jesus Freak

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Thanks for the pic.
And yes, the return line looks like in your pic for quiet some time - until it got cleaned by the diesel.

Nachschlag:
I want to confirm, that a 2-tank system is recommended if you want to drive straight WVO.
But - like said - it will only work on longer distances or longer engine running time - in case you still have the mechanical LiftPump running.
Our fuel lines a quiet long - and our filter(s) are also huge.

My return line goes to a magnet valve.
The valve switches
-back to the WVO tank
or
- in a loop back to the LP
The main Diesel tank is not connected to the return line.
This setup ensures, that the middle tank contains always clean/straight diesel.

If you use an electric transfer pump, then you may add an additional "flush-button" in the cockpit. This you'll press if you want to drive the WVO/WMO till switching off the engine or if you forgot to flush before switching off the engine.
Then the content of the filter(s), fuel lines and IP is pushed into the WVO/WMO-tank.
I've got hopes of doing something similar to that on my tow truck, it's progress is on hold for a while though. My plan is to use manual 3way valves and maintain a clean diesel tank with no return lines going to it. I'd like to keep it so I can use my glow plugs to start it, ether is annoying sometimes. I really like the flush button, I might work that in eventually.
 

sieg01

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I'd like to keep it so I can use my glow plugs to start it, ether is annoying sometimes. I really like the flush button, I might work that in eventually.

#1
What about https://www.oilburners.net/threads/intake-heat.35037/post-1105838
to support the glowplugs?

#2
I am running the mechanical LP.
I added a small "hand" pump in the fuel line before the filter, which I use when having not enough Diesel in the lines.
Off course the hand pump is annoying as it takes ages to clean the system.

In the worst case I use brake cleaner to start the engine.
 

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