How do you get rear slip driveshaft pieces at carrier bearing apart?(supercab 4x4)

damac

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I spent a couple hours searching google and a couple of forums and do not want to break anything with a hammer just yet :)

I haven't found anything specifically relevent. I have a 1985 supercab 4x4 and in the rear end it has a split driveshaft. I have a slip type yolk towards the rear of the truck which has a grease fitting, and it slides back and forth over the shaft of the forward driveshaft, before the carrier bearing, plate, housing assembly.

I want to pull this slip assembly apart so I can cleanup the bearing, squirt some new grease in there and install a new carrier bearing rubber housing. The old one is cracked apart and allows play in the driveshaft.

I assume this somehow comes apart so you can service the bearing, and I cannot fit the rubber housing over the yolk end.

I pulled the yolk side all the way out but it hits a brick wall and I can see some blue casting markings on the shaft at that point, but I stopped there.

Thanks for any info!
 

franklin2

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Here's a picture.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...aft with a fixed yoke at the transmission end

Apparently the rear yoke just slips off.

# Matchmark the driveshaft yoke and axle pinion flange.

# Remove the U-bolt nuts and U-bolts attaching the yoke to the axle flange.

# Separate the yoke from the flange. It may be necessary to pry it free with a small prybar. Immediately after separation, wrap tape around the U-joint caps to keep them from falling off.

# Slip the driveshaft off the coupling shaft splines.

# Remove the center bearing.

# Slide the coupling shaft from the transmission shaft splines.

# Clean all parts and check for damage. Do not remove the blue plastic coating from the male splines.

# Installation is the reverse of removal. Coat the splines with chassis lube. Torque the center bearing support bolts to 50 ft. lbs. Align the yoke-to-flange matchmarks. Torque the U-bolt nuts to:

5 / 16 in.-18: 15 ft. lbs.

3 / 8 in.-18: 17-26 ft. lbs.

7 / 16 in.-20: 30-40 ft. lbs.
 

typ4

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The blue stuff is a plastic coating to reduce noise, the cap on the yoke either screws off or pries off, then the shafts will slip right apart, it should have a blind spline to line up with during reassembly.
 

damac

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I have included a picture of mine. I don't see a cap to unscrew and it won't just slide off.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Jake S.

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Where the grease fitting is, that is the cap. Most of the time old grease gets really hardened and packed around the spline. If you have some heat, it will help to loosen it up.
 

typ4

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that is the rubber style cap, just hammer it off toward the bearing and it will slip off, reverse for assembly.

oh, they can be a *****, the rubber gets hard.
 

riotwarrior

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Ya that zirk is the in the threaded seal end just unscrew with big water pump pliers or similar tool, becareful though there is usually some leather or a piece of plastic or similar material that is shaped like the splines right at the end that covers the shaft sometimes hard to get off that final bit. Don't use heat too much or you will melt out that seal or ruin it possibly then you would be foo fudged for keepin grease in n dirt out.

Nice carrier bearing ya got there, are you doing all the U joints at the same time for added insurance?
 

typ4

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riot that style doesnt thread on.
 

sootman73

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So i've been looking for a replacement carrier bearing. autozone, rockauto, and oreilly's has multiple shaft sizes listed for these trucks. How do i determine which size bearing i need?
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My 1985 has the hard rubber cap.

I see no way for that cap to come off.

The first time it didn't come easy, but with a lot of force it finally did pull out.

After that first time, it isn't easy, but not impossible either.

The splines are imprinted in the rubber.

I am pretty certain that there is one fat spline, painted BLUE. ;Sweet
 

THECACKLER

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The Carrier Bearing "size" is the Inside Diameter if the bearing in the middle of the rubber and the Outside Diameter of the shaft that goes through it. Get a good one. Replace any U-Joint that has even a hint of fine red dust on the rubber cap seal. Lube the others. Mark each section of your drive shaft and the output and pinion yokes before removing it so you can put it back in the same position to keep the same balance.
 

87crewdually

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As others said the shafts will pull apart. The splines have one thick one for realignment. The blue is a nylon for noise and smoothness. I got a complete carrier bracket and all from Napa for about $50.
 

sootman73

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they offer two sizes of bearings for these trucks. how do i know which one i need? i dont have the option of taking it apart and then going to get the new one.....
 

87crewdually

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they offer two sizes of bearings for these trucks. how do i know which one i need? i dont have the option of taking it apart and then going to get the new one.....

The only difference is the center line. 2.479 or 2.25". Measure from the center of the shaft to the bolt center. I think that's the measurement you need. Or the measurement may be from shaft center to the mounting surface. Id' measure your truck in those 2 places and see which is closest.
 
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