How do you bleed the clutch on Ann t19

86truckpull

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Well like the title say I Ned to knw how to bled my clutch when I first got the clutch I didn't work I adda more oil and it did but over night it stops workin I think there's air it in and need to knw how to bleed it
 

oldblue05

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Bleeding clutches blows, with that said, there was a guy on here that took one of these:

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and clamped a piece of hose to the end of it then to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder then pumped fluid up through the clutch, forcing air out the top and solving the how to bleed a clutch problem forever.
 

hce

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Bring on the nay sayers but I have done this a couple of times.
I read this in hotrod on a camaro which used a similar system. They claimed the system is self bleeding. So I used there process on a ranger with a master and slave. I filled the master cylinder and started pumping slowly. Around 150 pump I could start to feel resistance. Around 300 it felt as good as you can get bench bleeding. Once you get any fluid moving in a clutch they usually get better the more it used. On all hydraulic clutches I have bleed they all get better the more it is used. The air will eventually migrate back up to the reservoir once you can get the fluid moving.
 

idi traveler

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Pump up the clutch to where it feels good then hold it for a minute and then do it again.
But if it out of the blue bleed down over night? Not good. It will get worse. If it's a new slave then it will get better by pumping and holding? If it is an old slave then it will slowly get worse and then? You get the picture. Good luck and let use know how it goes.

And in answer to you question, there is no bleeder on the slave. You fill it when you install it and that is it.
 

82F100SWB

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What always works for me is to fill the master, make sure it is fully returned, I've had to disconnect the pedal from the pushrod sometimes to do this, and then crawl under the truck and push the clutch fork and slave back(to the front of the truck) by hand slowly, bottom it out and let it slowly return to where it was resting with weight on the clutch. Do this a until you don't hear any more air in the master, then hook things back up, and 99% of the time you are merrily on your way.
That is actually Ford procedure, the shop manual calls for 10-15 cycles.
The other Ford method is plain old strange... With the slave off, it calls for removing the line from the slave, tipping it about 30 degrees, and filling it with fluid, rocking it as necessary to get all the air out, then installing it on the bellhousing.
Then you take the cap off the reservoir and have someone man the brake fluid keeping it full, and letting it run out of the line until it's clear of air, once it's clear, the you hook it up to the slave, and it should be bled... That is downright silly if you ask me.
 

nitroguy

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Hey guys, thread revival.

My 4 speed in my 84 (t19, right?) Suddenly is getting hard to shift into gear and the clutch doesn't disengage until almost at the firewall. I've got a vacuum bleeder I use for brakes, is there a nipple that I could use to bleed the clutch? DOT3 fluid?
 

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