Hook Up Electric Winch

Noiseydiesel

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Dual diesel battery set up with the fat OEM '0' Ga battery cables running from one side to the other.
Considering Anderson connectors to the winch, How do you wire the cable from the Anderson connector to the battery?
Pretty much looking for a sterile set-up.
Hopefully not stuck with a battery cable lug hanging off the end of a long battery bolt.
Got pics?

Considering a custom made battery cable with a pig tail hanging off the end that I can splice onto with a 220V wire connector then wrapped with 3M electrical tape.
The money has run out for this project currently and seeking info for a later date and still thinking about an 18K hyd winch for the truck. Bring more money.
Come on social security check. . .
Her's. Not mine.
 

DaveBen

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You seem a bit confused about this project. Just hook up the winch cable to the nearest BATTERY + post. Do not splice that battery cable that runs between the batteries. My Warn winch cable was long enough to get to the nearest battery. DO NOT use 220V wires. They are NOT rated for the current a winch will draw under load. You might be confusing voltage with amps. Volts are like pressure in a water line and amps are the flow.
 

chillman88

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A couple stud top group 31 batteries would fix you up quick, I love the batteries that are setup to use for side post AND top post for hooking up accessories.

That's the problem with our battery setup stock is there's no "good" way to add on.

Your best bet stock would be a set of military battery terminals added to the factory cables on the drivers side, you can add a cable to the bolt on the end of those.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ba...MIr8qFp7K96AIVJIVaBR11MQkIEAQYAiABEgKsmfD_BwE
 

Noiseydiesel

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Well in my advanced age, it might be true that I am confused however my original question still remains unanswered.
I will attempt to simplify it.
HOW do you connect the winch cable to the battery?

Do you do it with a jumper cable clamp?

Have you done it with a battery cable lug simply hung at the end of the original battery clamp bolt?
I suspect that all that is available.

As for the 220V splice connector, not the wires, it is a solid chunk of metal with two set screws in it. as for the amperage rating of that connector, I imagine it would take more, quite a bit more than a 600 AMP winch would ever pull through it. I suppose if I desired to melt it, I would need to short out both batteries at the same time.

So far, for a sterile appearance, it looks like I am still having to build a custom cable.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Those military connections and/or the Group 31 batteries would be a good way to go from scratch.
I have a new main cable and new batteries. Do not desire to go backwards too gar to go forwards.
 

chillman88

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Those military connections and/or the Group 31 batteries would be a good way to go from scratch.
I have a new main cable and new batteries. Do not desire to go backwards too gar to go forwards.

Wouldn't take too much to add those terminals to your current cables was my point. Then you could bolt a set of cables on for your winch.

I really wouldn't trust a jumper cable clamp for a winch, they barely transmit enough power to jump start reliably.
 

Clb

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Heavy truck shop, look for
1 wrecker bed jumper cable taps
2 ask for gear to remote mount battery
3 milspec 24v gear
Run the biggest ga. Wire possible,
run The ground straight to the batt
nolox the connections,
big brass\copper lugs soldered not just crimped (swaged is good,fill cavity with nolox first) flows more amps.
Short pulls won't heat it up near as much as constant duty recovery.
Remember burnt connections is bad grounds, popped circuit is loose\weak\damaged wire.
 

Clb

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i've had better luck with vatovone than walmart...
me
INTERSTATE
 

nelstomlinson

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I've been installing the military style terminals on my batteries. I crimp copper lugs on the ends of my cables. Soldering does keep corrosion out of the inside of the lug, but if your cable starts to get hot the solder can melt. A proper crimp is going to make a gas tight connection. No-Ox is good in the crimps. I cover the lug-to-insulation gap with adhesive heat shrink tubing to keep crud and oxygen out.

When I have to replace a battery cable I use 00 or 0000 gauge welding cable, arctic grade and oil resistant.

I ran some 6AWG welding cable back to the front of the bed, put a 50A Anderson connector there so I have a little power in the bed for a pump or camper or such. I ran 2AWG cable from the drivers side battery to a 75A Anderson connector which hangs in the grill to hook up to my 2AWG jumper cables, which have a 175A Anderson on one end.

If I were mounting a winch on the front I would use lugged 00AWG or better cables to bolt onto the military terminals.
 

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