Help with fuel system question

NJGearhead666

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Ok now my truck use to be a plow truck mostly and since i got it ive had to deal with the murphys law alot. Any little project i start always ends in disaster mostly cause of rust. me and my girlfriend have given it its new nickname, The Anti-Christ. so on to todays problem.

my rear fuel tank was leaking. I bought a new tank and a new gallon of POR15 figuring ill POR the tank, the skidplates and the frame rails all around the tank. well the bolts were so rusted i had to torch and grind them out. i drop the tank enough onto the floorjack to get to the lines on the sending unit and i see the problem. the tank isnt leaking the hard lines that go into the braded hoses from the sending unit have rusted away!:***: so i drop the tank all the way out. and now i have the two hard lines stuck in the fittings. i managed to get the one out on the black line but i cant get the fitting out of the green line. and ive noticed the green line has become real brittle.

so now what? is the green line the feed or return? can i relace the braded line with rubber fuel line?
 

Exekiel69

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You can just use diesel fuel hose or fuel injection hose and go on. No need to replace with a steel line unless You prefer it that way in which case I would use stainless steel brake line.
 

NJGearhead666

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thanks guy looks like ill have to wait till tuesday to get to the parts store, i went to advanced auto tonight and asked for a sending unit and got told they dont carry them it must be a factory only part-cuss. I guess ill just have to wait for my regular parts store to open on monday so the truck will be down till then but least it gives me time to POR everything i can it the gas tank area. im going to take pics tomorrow of this disaster of a project
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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the supply is 3/8 and the return is 5/16


^^^^Second That^^^^, 3/8 and 5/16.


If you have the whole mess out and on the ground, why not rework the fuel pick-up fittings situation, replacing them with JIC bulk-head fittings with custom-built draw-straw inside the tank.

The JIC are WAY superior to those flimsy brittle factory fittings.


Otherwise, you can also carefully trim away the plastic line from the end-fittings, exposing the barbs, and slide on plain old rubber fuel-line and clamps.

If the little plastic keeper gizmos are broken/missing, plain old zip-ties can be threaded through the slots and accomplish the same thing.



When you put it all back together, use plenty of ANTI-SIEZE.;Sweet
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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While the tank is out would also be a good time to cut a trap-door in the bed-floor for future sending-unit access/removal from above, without having to drain/drop the tank.
 

NJGearhead666

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^^^^Second That^^^^, 3/8 and 5/16.


If you have the whole mess out and on the ground, why not rework the fuel pick-up fittings situation, replacing them with JIC bulk-head fittings with custom-built draw-straw inside the tank.

The JIC are WAY superior to those flimsy brittle factory fittings.


Otherwise, you can also carefully trim away the plastic line from the end-fittings, exposing the barbs, and slide on plain old rubber fuel-line and clamps.

If the little plastic keeper gizmos are broken/missing, plain old zip-ties can be threaded through the slots and accomplish the same thing.



When you put it all back together, use plenty of ANTI-SIEZE.;Sweet



JIC? sorry im new to this
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Here is where I buy most of mine :

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/JIC_37_Flare_s/24.htm


Each fuel-hose connection requires the JIC fitting plus a JIC swivel/barb, which is usually a "push-lok" type barb; meaning, if you use the correct hose, a clamp is un-necessary; you can use standard hose, but clamps are then required.

To understand the size system, JIC and AN(same thing as far as we are concerned) are numbered in sixteenths of an inch; in other words, an 06-JIC fitting = 6/16" = 3/8" I.D. hose.


Look up JIC on Wikipedia.
 

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